2012 Kia Optima 2.4 GDI OCI and oil suggestions?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
721
Location
Martinsburg West Virginia
Just got a 2102 Optima with the non turbo GDI 2.4 engine. According to the owner's manual you can use just about anything in it. It suggests 5W20, 5W30 or 10W30 GF-5 but says GF-4 is fine as well as SM but if you cannot find it then SL is fine too. Does not sound like the manufacturer is very picky about what goes in there as long as it is replaced according to it's suggestions of 3,750 miles severe schedule or 7,500 regular schedule. I asked the dealer what they used and they pointed to Car Quest 5W30 conventional sitting in cases in the corner of the parts dept. They told me even though the manual recommends 5W20 for best fuel economy that they suggest using a 5W30 and going no more than 5k OCI. I am planning to use 5W30 for the fuel dilution issues that the DI engines seem to be having. I figure if it shears to a 20wt it is still within spec. I figure I will change the FF at 1k (almost there) miles since it is most likely 5W20 and want to go with a high moly oil for at least the rest of the break-in period. Probably going to use PYB 5W30 and change it at 3k intervals till 10k to get all of the wear metals out of there. My question is what do I do past that? I figure there is no point in going to synth oils since they will not be in there very long. I have a fairly large stash of synth oil at this point but do not think it is worth using up oils in this car at short intervals that I can use in something else for 3X the miles. Do I just do a 3,750 OCI or go the 5K the dealer suggested? Most of the driving around here is prob 80-90% highway with the cruise set so the driving style is very easy. Would that keep fuel dilution down enough to run oil out to 7,500? Any suggestions would be appreciated especially if anyone has one of these engines and can share their experience.
 
If its 90% highway driving, then 5k is fine and whatever oil you put in is fine. Just keep the receipts for every oil change and use for warranty purposes.

The fuel dilution goes away after a few oil changes as the engine breaks in.

What you suggest for the first 10k is fine. Hyundai recommends Quaker State so pennzoil is perfectly fine.

I suggest you keep the FF oil in there for the first 3k - really break that car in.
 
If most trips are 80-90% highway and more than 10 miles, then it's very easy on oil. Your OCI for the first 10k miles is sound, after that go 6-7k OCI or 6 months whichever is first.
 
I know the FF has high moly in it from a UOA I saw on here for a Kia. That is why I figured the PYB might be a good idea. Wasn't sure if I would be harming anything to leave the FF in for the first 3K. Just do not want it shearing down the 20wt since it was 100 degrees here the past 2 days. In addition to the wear metals that are probably in the oil as well as the fuel dilution. Not opposed to leaving the FF in as long as nobody thinks the 5W20 will be an issue with dilution in this hot weather. If it were a different car I would not worry at all, just kind of freaked out by the oil dilution issues on the DI engines for the first few miles.
 
Send off a uoa when your engine is broken in. Then you will have a baseline for your vehical. The ff has dust dirt an small shavings in it. like your 3k change in the baby stage of your engine, thats how I treated my challenger. I think T6 is good for DI engines. Kia states 11.3 to 1 compression. Thats alot of compression, HDEO might be what your looking for for low wear over the long run.
 
No more than 7500 miles w/ good synth on sale oil. XW-30 in summer, XW-20 in winter. If you change your own oil, you'll appreciate the fuel dilution in these motors. Two buddies I change oil for have 'em (one sonata, one optima) and mine is similar/worse. I'm running 5W-40 summer, 5W-30 winter. I changed FF in mine and the others ~2K miles.
 
Last edited:
You would have thought Hyundai / Kia would have more experience with fuel dilution issues during testing of DI engines ? 5W40 - really ?
 
Wives tales. Stick with what it says on the manual. Adjust the oil weight usage depending on your environment (ie. sahara desert or antartica).

There are bad stories as well as good stories on Hyundai/Kia's warranty repairs. A savy master tech will simply say warranty is void based on what people here are suggesting for your OCI and oil weights. Let's face it, this is West Virginia you're living in, so you don't need high weight oil. ** also, WV is mountainous so I would stick with the "severe" service intervals - but depending on the oil quality (synthetic or conventional) your OCI can be in-between the "severe" 3750 miles or 7500 miles.

Stick with what it says in the manual as it will make warranty repairs that much more easy.

Keep that FF in there for the first OCI, don't change it earlier because if you do a UOA on the second oil fill, your readings will be way off and you'll think your engine is prematurely wearing.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
You would have thought Hyundai / Kia would have more experience with fuel dilution issues during testing of DI engines ? 5W40 - really ?


Please realize that we're talking about 2 different motors here...

OP is 2.4 NA

Mine is 2.0 TURBO

READ MY SIG...

the 2.0T is spec'd for 5w-30 via manual and valve cover oil cap BUT the MANUAL also says :QUOTE: "For improved vehicle performance, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-40(API SM/ILSAC GF-4)"

That means to me that they're aware of wear and dilution is a problem. But CAFE reigns supreme, who cares - it's only warranted for 100K miles... I'd like mine to last for 200K+

The fuel dilution is apparent by smell and feel (viscosity drop from virgin) but I don't care to test because of factory mandated "short" oil change intervals (7.5K normal and 3750 severe miles NA) vs. (4.8K and 3K severe turbo)
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top