To all of my fellow 6.7L Cummins Operators

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Delmar

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Nov 29, 2011
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To all of you operating a 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel that have deleted the EGR/CAT/NOX/DPF.

My 2011 3500 was deleted completely and tuned via H&S XRT PRO in late December of 2011. I currently run the "No Power" tune with torque management turned off & timing set to #4.

I am not running a bypass filter yet. At my last OC I switched from Rotella 15w/40 to Rotella T6. At 7500 miles I sent a sample to Blackstone Labs, changed the filter & filled the new filter with T6. The UOA came back great with good TBN#'s. I plan to run this oil for an additional 7,500 miles, then change it out & install my bypass filter.

What OCI's are you guys doing on your deleted 6.7's ???
 
Seems like Dodge oughta just add a box to the options list that says "Emissions Control Systems Removal".
 
If they did that the vehicles would never get EPA approval to sell for road use.Like pull the Urea fluid from Ford and GM....and they fail.
 
Sorry this is sorta off topic from what OP asked, but what kind of MPG were you seeing before and after deletes?? I test drove a 2012 Ram 2500 w/ the cummins... Man that thing has power! The engine brake is quite nice too! And the shift select buttons... Beauty
 
Keep in mind I use this truck for our small trucking business, about 95% of the time our 48" tandem duals flat deck trailer is hitched to the truck. I gross anywhere from 20,000 LBS - 34,000 LBS. We haul oil field equipment to land based rigs primarily.

Pre Deletes I averaged 9 -9.5 MPG's loaded. Post Deletes I average 11.87 MPG's (since December 29th, 2011). This is mostly highway cruising 63 - 65 MPH.

Pre Deletes bob tail I averaged 14.5 MPG's. Post Deletes bob tail I average around 19 MPG's. Bob tail I cruise 65 - 70 MPH.

All of the above mentioned figures are hand calculated. The lie-o-meter (EVIC) is always about 1MPG off +/-.

Now as for my original question. Where are the other guy's with your deleted 2007.5 - 2012 Cummins Turbo Diesels ???
 
Delmar,
Do you worry about having to re-install the deletes when it comes to resale or emissions test ( looming in the future ) , or warranty work ?
I also have a 2011 3500, bone stock, and would love to remove the garbage .
I weight the choices and have a tough time choosing the delete route.
The dodge runs great and I just finished a 5200 mile road trip and averaged 19mpgs with no trouble, that was not towing anything except passengers and luggage , running interstates at 70-80 mph. Perhaps when I am out of warranty I will find a shop to convert to off-road specs, but for now I will keep the epa garbage on the 6.7 .
 
No worries or emissions testing here. As for warranty work, I only have a few thousand miles until the warranty is history. That's about 1 month or from now.


So no other guys on here are getting UOA done and extending your OCI ???
 
So what shop did your off road conversion? I know you strictly use the ram only off road, so it is perfectly legal .
grin.gif

I don't think I would tackle the job myself .
Neely
 
It's very simple to do yourself. I did it all in about 3 hours. If you can change your oil or a flat tire, you can delete and tune a 6.7L CTD. Don't waste your money on a shop that will charge you $90 - $120 per shop hour to do something you can do yourself with basic hand tools in your garage.
 
just like delmar said. why pay a shop when you can do it yourself. Ive done tons of deletes for people,(side work) but of course i charge them lol. I also make a good bit of cash selling the DPF's and no emissions testing down here. buddy of mine has a 2010 3500 dodge, we put the Smarty and 4 inch flo pro straight pipe, EGR is still installed but unplugged. I do all his maintenance, Mobil Delvac 15W40 with a Mopar filter, longest oci hes gone is 9k (laziness on his part as i keep reminding him thats too long) i usually change it for him around 5 to 6k. Might start using T6 this winter and try to extend the oci.
 
Start doing UOA's on the Delvac 15w40. You'd be surprised at how long it can go. It's probably better at long drain intervals than RT6.
 
^^^I'm sure no one likes that program here, but it's an excellent idea.

The tech is well proven and it will be for ALL vehicles, not just diesels. Everyone needs to be a bit more responsible.
 
So does anyone else here drive a 6.7L Cummins ??? This thread is not a tree hugger debate. If you would like information about how to tune & delete these motors please PM me, it's very simple to do & I'm glad to help you.
 
Do you know if a delete is feasible ona medium duty truck with a 6.7 with DPF/EGR/SCR, i.e. an SD Brazos (civilian FMTV 6x6)? Is it dependant on particular engine electronics?

Charlie
 
So almost 2 weeks and no responses from other 6.7 Cummins operators....................... Moderators delete this thread when you get a chance, thanks.
 
Just out of curiosity- do you see any visible soot after the deletes? With the tune you describe, I certainly wouldn't expect to see tractor-pull style greasy black clouds... and in fact I might not expect to see ANYTHING.


Sorry you didn't get any responses directly about the question, but I find the thread interesting nonetheless.

Cheers.
 
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With my 6.7 I get 16.5 mpg around town. 19 mpg on highway. 10.5 mpg with a 23000# gross. My wife gets 15/17/10 with her lead foot.

Prior to deletes I got 13 mpg around town. 16 mpg on highway and 9 mpg with the trailer. Huge difference.

Of course when it was new it used to make me cry it was so bad.
cry.gif


I did the deletes to improve the mileage and save the engine. Every (and I mean every) mechanic I've spoken to, including the Dodge mechanics say to get rid of the DPF/EGR as soon as possible as it's turning the 500,000 mile engine into a 150,000 engine. Interestingly enough the local Dodge dealer will do the deletes for you for about $2000. They have done some on trucks that were brand new. In GA we don't have emission testing on diesels or 3500 trucks. We have a Smarty Jr in it with it set on Tow (SW2). That brings it up to 410hp and 800 ft-lbs of torque.

I just had Blackstone test the oil at 7500 miles and they said it was great and change it at 10,000 miles next time. I guess they want me to creep up on a maximum. We primarily use the truck to pull the heavy trailer (with a huge non aerodynamic front end) on long hauls so it works hard.
 
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