How to do an oil change in a Lawnboy? Help!

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I would mow the lawn then lift it up and use the drain plug (100% there is one.) and let it all drain out. While down there I would check the blade. If it has been a season since it was sharpended it is worth having it done (also have them check the balance and see if it needs to be replaced.) then add the 20oz of either 30w or 5w-30 (I use supertech, works great) and enjoy!
 
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
My Craftsman (MTD) push mower has a B&S engine. There is no drain plug and the manual specifies that you tip it to drain the oil from the dipstick while at operating temperature.

It calls for B&S SAE30 or 10w-30 oil. I used some Rotella T6 5w-40 just because I didnt have any of the aforementioned oils on hand. I'm sure it'll be fine.

You'll be fine with Mobil 1 10w-30. That's a fine choice, although you might see some added protection from a HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) 10w-30. Rotella is a good choice. Most auto stores have it. Wal Mart does too, but I'm not sure about 10w-30.


http://www.briggsandstratton.com/support...20Change%20Oil/


Briggs has eliminated drain plugs from many of their cheaper engines.

And like Hokiefyd said, on this Tecumseh it's not going to come out easy if at all at this point. Draining from the dipstick tube will cause much less aggravation.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
My Craftsman (MTD) push mower has a B&S engine. There is no drain plug and the manual specifies that you tip it to drain the oil from the dipstick while at operating temperature.

It calls for B&S SAE30 or 10w-30 oil. I used some Rotella T6 5w-40 just because I didnt have any of the aforementioned oils on hand. I'm sure it'll be fine.

You'll be fine with Mobil 1 10w-30. That's a fine choice, although you might see some added protection from a HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) 10w-30. Rotella is a good choice. Most auto stores have it. Wal Mart does too, but I'm not sure about 10w-30.


http://www.briggsandstratton.com/support...20Change%20Oil/


Briggs has eliminated drain plugs from many of their cheaper engines.

And like Hokiefyd said, on this Tecumseh it's not going to come out easy if at all at this point. Draining from the dipstick tube will cause much less aggravation.


Yeah, I'm sure that the Craftsman manual says there is no drain plug and to use the tube. To be honest I've never looked for a plug though. It's just easiest for me to tip it over on top of the pan.
 
Thanks everyone!

Lawnboy.com requires a small fee to get the owner's manual.

I will get a quart of PYB SAE 30 from walmart. We had it for 3 yrs and only added oil once LOL.
 
I found a quart of castrol HD 30 and some genuine briggs& stratton oil in my garage. saves me a trip to Walmart.
 
i'm in the mityvac group; but then again i use the mityvac for the fluid changes in my cars too, so the tool is already available and paid for.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: shadow7
I found a quart of castrol HD 30 and some genuine briggs& stratton oil in my garage.

I like this idea much more than the synthetic idea. I realize many sing the "praises" of synthetic and some manufactures also now reference synthetic as an option and some as a prefferd option. But when you speak to ppl putting more hours on a small engine in 2 weeks thn an average homeowner does in a week, youll hear some horror stories of oil consumption using full syn. Also alot of ppl speak highly of 15w40. Small engine makers have recommended sae 30 in above 60 temps for many many years, and i have used it for many years, never once have i had an oil/lube related issue. As the saying goes.....if it aint broke, dont fix it
 
In the case of my ~$700 21" Snapper mower, the engine oil drain plug was covered up by the (self propel) belt and belt guard.

I'm with others in that using the bottom drain (if so equipped) isn't always the easiest or most effective option. You never get every ounce out of the little buggers anyway.
 
I can do an oil change on my Honda in 60 seconds through the dip stick, and not spill a drop. It takes about 10 mins with the drain plug, by the time I clean all the grass off the bottom and get my hands all dirty with oil and drain plug. And Then I get grass in my drain pan and have to clean that out.
 
It takes major skill to take out a drain plug? New rings are tricky, a drain plug, not so much. As well, the engine in question and the vast majority do have plugs. They are often hidden below the belt guard on self propelleds.

Regardless, like most things on this site, I don't think it matters. Generic 30 weight dumped out the fill tube, is probably as effective as synthetic HDEO through the bottom if done as scheduled. Every now and then, when I am not too lazy, I pop off the belt guard and drain through the bottom. For my own amusement I run synthetic Rotella T-6 in almost everything air cooled in my barn and garage. Including a 4 cycle Lawnboy.
 
I know Lawn Boys have 4 strokers now, but still sounds funny to see someone needing to change the oil on a Lawn Boy! Makes me want to say just run it out of gas!
 
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