Beginning Kreen treatment, with PICS..

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Not to hi-jack that thread but I noticed while checking the oil today that the varnish off the dipstick was considerably less than what it used to be... While I accept that the sludge issue could be just the handled using PU, I am in doubt that it will clean up varnish as well?

I was about to forget all about Kreen until just a few minutes ago.
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly
Not to hi-jack that thread but I noticed while checking the oil today that the varnish off the dipstick was considerably less than what it used to be... While I accept that the sludge issue could be just the handled using PU, I am in doubt that it will clean up varnish as well?

I was about to forget all about Kreen until just a few minutes ago.


Varnish can be tough, if you see less of it on the dipstick consider that a good sign.
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly
Not to hi-jack that thread but I noticed while checking the oil today that the varnish off the dipstick was considerably less than what it used to be... While I accept that the sludge issue could be just the handled using PU, I am in doubt that it will clean up varnish as well?

I was about to forget all about Kreen until just a few minutes ago.


Actually PU and PP are very good at cleaning vanish. One run of PP in our Accord and it cleaned the dipstick, I wish I took a before and after pic. It cleaned up so much that it sprung a leak (no joke!)
 
I've run PU on the car for about 3 changes I believe now. Only recently did I notice a major difference. The filler cap is another area where there is heavy varnish (and gunk) but I don't think I'll be lucky with that one. I guess I'll see how it works out.

I might just buy the gallon and see how it turns out. If I see no improvement, I'll just call it quits once and for all.
 
Originally Posted By: krosnovski
the rubber seals on the BMW vanos are prone to failure and and premature degradation. There may be some risk of the seals degrading at an accelerated pace when exposed to an additive as potent as Kreen. This was especially true for BMW 6-cyl engines with vanos. I am not 100% sure about the M62 engine on the car being discussed in this thread.

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_single_procedure.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VANOS



I have done two Kreen treatments on my BMW and have not noticed any vanos issuse on my car.
 
Sorry for the delay guys, I haven't done my final dose yet.. But the car is running better, and the oil is staying cleaner longer.. When I did my valve cover gaskets I did have the insides of the covers sandblasted.. To get them all clean.. I'll be doing an oil change in a couple weeks, so I'll begin my final treatment soon, and post pics of the oil and such..
 
Just for posterity and searches. I did the website get a can of Kroil 'free' deal. It does not have a lot as to price of shipping. Even though I mispelled my work (a 9 instead of i) lol, and screwed up the CC# (last number was wrong) lol, a phone call still got me product. The cost was 1qt cans of Kreen $14 ea., one small Aerokroil 'free' and $16.60 of shipping (fedex ground) $4.12 of state tax $48.72 total less than week turnaround from call. It's for use on the two older trucks in sig, will use over 2 OCI's and will use Techron as fuel cleaner also. No real sludge in either, but some varnish.
 
Originally Posted By: Airbrush_it
I haven't done any manual cleaning of the engine, other than getting the valve covers sandblasted.. (which was free)
After the Kreen treatment is finished, I am going to pull the valve covers and take more pics. Also when the treatment is done, I'm going to pull the oil pan, inspect everything and replace the gasket.
The engine never did tick, or knock, or anything else. It ran great.. (surprisingly)
I simply discovered the issue when changing leaky VCG.

I wish it worked faster, but faster isn't always better.. In this case I think the slower approach will yield the least possible chance of clogging the oil supply and destroying the ehgine.


The above was posted on 04/11/2012. I believe enough time has passed now that OP should be able show us the after pictures.

What can we do to bring him come back here and comment???
 
There are no after pictures yet, however I can say that looking in the oil fill hole is quite a bit cleaner. I don't have the time or money at the moment to pull the valve covers just to take pictures, and from what I can see, I need to do another treatment or two.
So the results up until now are after two treatments, that it's working, just slower than I would like.
 
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Update:
Right now I'm doing a timing job on the car because the guide rails failed. I think the amount of sludge in this engine is more than any additive can handle at this point.
Pics:
PicsArt_1361842758271_zps9ff14f42.jpg

1111_zpsfbc42ff6.jpg
 
^^ I'd consider doing some manual cleaning of that engine. A pan drop, and thorough cleaning down below, followed by cleaning the valve area would be a good place to start. Then I'd consider Kreen as a follow up. All that junk has to go somewhere, and you run the risk of plugging something up if you don't do a manual clean up.
 
THIS engine (M62) was the reason I made my "is varnish really harmless?" thread.

I don't think the timing chain guide failure is a coincidence.

OP, if you have a second, please check-out my thread. IMHO, there's no bringing these engines back from the brink once they are there. If you've got varnish, which is of course the precursor to sludge, well, ultimately this is the result.
 
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