Gunk Motor Flush results

[oilboy28]

Thought you guys might want to know about a Gunk flush that I did last night:

1. Ran one bottle of Gunk for 10 minutes.
2. Drained oil, changed filter.
3. Refilled with oil and new filter
4. Added another bottle of gunk and ran for 10 minutes.
5. Drained oil, changed filter.
6. Ran a couple quarts of clean oil through with plug out to catch left over residue.
7. Refilled with Delvac 1300.

The oil is extremely clean now, can hardly see it on dipstick without looking at the right angle. The subject car is a 87 Toyota Tercel with 148000 miles. Some may ask why I did this because Gunk is supposedly harsh. Well this car is a beater, I dont care if what I did ruined the engine. I want to see if this stuff is really that bad. This car had bad treatment before I got it, and was a rental car when it was new. Anyway, I am going to drive it to work for the next couple of months to see if this stuff detroyed the engine. I will keep you guys updated.

 

[Frank]

How much money did you spend for "Gunk" oil & filters to accomplish this attempt to clean a "Beater" as you call it ? You can look for major internal and external seal leaks within a few hundred miles, where do you think those "Chunks" of Oil Debris went ? keep us posted
I have heard and seen the results of "Shock"
Chemistry on oil lubricated metal, you have given it new meaning. One last note since you indicate your car is expendable, post ASAP miles driven when engine warning light comes on.E-Mail me as i will donate Auto-Rx to see if my chemistry can
recesitate your engine, what a test of Auto-Rx this could be.

 

[Malibu]

oilboy28, when you drained the Gunk mixture, how dirty was the
oil? Any solid, grease like chunks come out of the oil pan drain
hole or just ordinary dark colored oil?

I did a Gunk treatment too, on a beater '73 Toyota Corona back in
1995. The inside of its engine wasn't too terribly dirty, but I did
the gunk treatment anyway just out of curiosity. Seven year later,
in 2002, the car was still running well and no leaks developed
as a result of the gunk treatment.

 

[mkosem]

My buddy has a 95 Dodge caravan with the V6 that he ran penzoil dino oil in for 15k miles(dummy didn't know or remember or something). The quick lube place ran 3 gunk engine flush treatments through the engine and flushed it with clean oil. They finished it up with a fresh fill of 10w40. He's not had any trouble since and it's been a few months. But wow, they really ripped him off and told him this was the right way to do it. I wish he would have asked me first....

--Matt

 

[Frank]

Malibu your amazing. Where do you think your leaks came from ( or are you saying you had no leaks at all ?) since you know it was not "Gunk" ?
did you ever go to there web site and read the Material Data Safety Sheet for this product ? Do you realize a lot of new guys come on this board and they don't know who or what to believe. Auto-Rx has to "Guarantee Performance" or purchaser does not pay.I consider myself knowledgeable on chemistry that cleans metal,and I know seal pliability and lack of same and how to stop seal leaks and what type of chemistry "Swells" seals.
Any message board dealing with chemistry needs
extreme knowledge and credibility from it's members, this board exist's to answer questions with solid opinion's they don't have to agree and
we all don't however for the most part we are professional.

 

[oilboy28]

I think I still spent less than an Auto RX treatment. Two supertech filters cost $4, and the oil was below a $1 for each quart. Cant remember exactly but I believe each gunk bottle was $2 or so. Anyway no chunks came out when the oil was drained. The oil was very dirty on the first drain. The second was slightly stained, and the new oil is still sparkling now. I took the car on a 2 hour canyon ride today and when I got back the oil was still very clean (not down a drop either), and the car ran great the whole time. I figured that if it croaked, I would call for a ride and just leave it up there somewhere in Park City, but it made it back fine.

 

[Accordman]

Oilboy, years ago I used Gunk too in some old Hondas I had. Never had any problems with it. I really don't know why there is all this scare talk about traditional petroleum solvent products like Gunk. I mean they've been around for decades. If they truly harmed engines wouldn't we know about it by now? Now I can understand they might be harmful in totally neglected and thickly sludged motors, but not in the vast majority of motors which just have trace amounts of sludge in recessed areas.

 

[sprintman]

Glad it's your engines not mine!!

 

[digitaldrifter91]

gunk requires usage of idling for 10 minutes right?? i have a high sludge engine and im diong a auto rx application but i want to get rid of some sludge first so that auto rx will work faster...what if i ran the engine for 3 minutes with gunk and then drained it...would that be enough to do nothing? my car gets no miles...maybe 20 a month.

 

[eldawg4100]

i had an old 85 eldorado BEATER...
the car sat doing nothing for years, the inside was decently sludged and maybe rusted... i used to many snake oil products in it... but anyways, i used a gunk or KW engine flush, ran it at high idle for 10 minutes, drained (nothing solid came out) put new oil in, and it became a smoker. would smoke especially when it was cold...

 

[oilboy28]

I would idle it for the 10 minutes, but dont use the whole bottle of gunk if you have that much sludge. Maybe use 1/4 to a 1/3 of the whole application.

 

[Terry]

Read the reams of my rants about solvents and see why I like Auto-Rx.

I like to use Auto-Rx first, then once cleaned gently and prepped,use Lube Control as an anti oxidant to control the vis and oxidative stability of the oil.

Some have misinterpreted my support of Lube Control as hypocritical as Auto-RX is about the most effective NON hazardous cleaner you'll ever find.

I'm not owned by Schaeffers, Auto-RX, or Lube control and I just call it like I've seen a product perform in testing, and testing I have personally interpreted for compensation.

LC is an inhibited, lubricious solvent chemistry and the solvents in it are really tough stuff. Stronger,safer, lower cost,and more effective than other solvent chemistries.

Problem with Gunk and other low flash products is they clean the top layers of buildup and then in the engine cook off. They also leave a layer of residual coating( chemical and coked) that can end up spinning a bearing ( if you care ).

I still don't like hazardous low flash point solvents.

AUTO-RX and Lube Control are NOT low flash point solvents.

 

[OneQuartLow]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Terry:
... can end up spinning a bearing ( if you care )

---

Subtlety?

 

[cryptokid]

how would gunk end up spinning a modern pinned bearing?

 

[Malibu]

The MSDS of Gunk says it's just petroleum distillate and kerosene. which in turn is similar to gasoline.

So I would suggest having a motor oil with 25% Gunk in it for 10 minutes is roughly analogous to having a motor oil with 25% gasoline in it for 10 minutes. Yes, the viscosity and lubricity of the engine oil would decrease around 25%, but this should not have significant consequences since its only a 10 minute treatment. And yes, petroleum distillate is harmful to rubber components if the exposure is prolonged and concentrated. But with Gunk we are talking about only a 10 minute exposure to highly diluted petroleums.

 

[Bio-T]

Malibu,
I called the Toyota Dealer and they do not have an OEM part number for Gunk and you know you can't use anything but OEM fluids in the Toyota. Just going by your past rhetoric.

 

[cryptokid]

i can confirm what 59 vetteman say, toyota dealer told me any additive is bad for toyota, only use genuine toyota fluids. they have genuine proprietary mixtures which are beneficial to toyotas long life. toyota fluid he said, is the fountain of youth.

 

[Malibu]

58Vetteman, I said I used Gunk "on a beater '73 Toyota Corona". This was a 25 year old ghetto car I bought dirt cheap just to learn a few a few things about the engineering of vintage Toyotas.

 

[mebanditws6]

I did 2 treatments back to back of KW flush last summer and another treatment mid fall to my sludged Jeep. The 2 treatments did in fact help as I didn't lose oil pressure anymore like I did beforehand. But then late December all that sludge that was in the engine ended up in the pan from the flush, and clogged up the pickup giving me the same symptoms before. Had a mechanic drop the pan, clean it (he had to clean it with a wire brush drill bit it was so bad), put a new oil pump in, and he inspected the crank, rods, rod bearings, etc as well as pulling off a couple main caps. The engine was is still in good shape with the exception of a little wear on the main caps but nothing to worry about. He was suprised how good of shape it was in. Also the valve guide seals were going and made the Jeep smoke a little at cold start.

I am now 300 miles into the first treatment of auto-rx, and already the blue smoke at startup is gone thanks to reconditioned seals. I am very pleased with rx so far. The Jeep builds oil pressure almost instaneously now at cold start even below freezing temps (maybe though because I'm using different brand oil, but same 10w40 viscosity).

Jason

 

[Terry]

Crypto, you slide in a partially dispersed piece of carbon mixed with the partially evaporated glob of low flash petroleum distillate and you'll understand what I mean by spun bearing as it rips and tears against the overlay/ race acting like a metal lathe, jerking and starting/ stopping everything attached to it.