The side effect of rustproofing

[JHZR2]

This is my Saab, got it Krowned two years ago in Canada, last fall I sprayed carwell oil under the car.

The car has sat but saw lots of skiing duty carrying us to VT where they use a ton of sand on the roads.

Guess this doesnt much matter, but was surprised to see how much sand remained.

 

[KrisZ]

Yes, I experienced this when I moved to a newly built sub division. Except that my car was caked with mud much of last spring and every time it rained. What you have here is a VERY light coat of sand.
Sand and dirt stick to the oil spray quite well, however I've been told by Krown guys that it doesn't affect anything other than appearances. It will eventually wash off.

Personally I'd rather deal with some oil spray and dirt that can easily be blasted off with a can of brake cleaner, than wrestle with rusty bolts.

 

[SLCraig]

KROWN is still the best, and I won't stop using it just for a bit of buildup like that. The stuff works, and they guarantee it.

 

[rjundi]

My experience living in New England is that it tends to trap moisture/debris no matter how hard installer tries not to block drainage.

I think rust is worst.

 

[bmwjohn]

not quite on point, but I have an old 1994 Dakota, got surface rust on frame rails, etc. I plan to keep it a while. Zero Rust Co. have a white powder that you spray on with water in pump as a rust remover BUT NOT as a rust proofer.I have thought of a spray on rust proof OR undercoat but would like to reduce rust first.The liquid reusable kind is a bit expensive and would not be recovered if in spray bottle. Only commercial rust proofers around here are ziebart and I think one independent (Rusty Jones?)Thoughts?

 

[eljefino]

Seems the oil has a nice tack additive. That sand would bug me too. But a slurry of tarry oil and sand already on your stuff will keep more sand and salt from abrading the paint and metal beneath.

If it were me, and this is not scientific at all, I'd steam clean it every spring and reapply that sticky oil every fall.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I should have got my Focus with a Krown coat on it last year. I'm thinking of of doing it even though I missed the first year.

I usually spray my vehicles with waste oil and that works okay.

 

[Kestas]

You're seeing sand, I'm seeing an unrusted undercarriage. Whatever you did, it seems to be working.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ

Personally I'd rather deal with some oil spray and dirt that can easily be blasted off with a can of brake cleaner, than wrestle with rusty bolts.

That's for sure!

If you pressure wash the underside of that car I bet it will look great.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
If it were me, and this is not scientific at all, I'd steam clean it every spring and reapply that sticky oil every fall.

That would be a rather tiresome task after 10 or 15 years, especially if you have multiple cars in the household.

 

[eljefino]

You know, now that I think about it, I've encountered many a saturn subframe with 3/8" of sandy oil glop wedged between metal and a plastic splash shield. Beautiful metal underneath. The oil comes from removing the filter directly over the frame and having it spill a nice mess out.

The opposite side of the subframe rots out in pretty much the same spot every time.

 

[rpn453]

My car sometimes looks like the bottoms of the doors and rear fenders are already rusting after the oil film creeps out and dust sticks to it.

 

[JHZR2]

Haha. Good shot.

 

[sciphi]

I've got the same thing on our cars that get Fluid Film. Whatever, it means the stuff works!

 

[George7941]

Originally Posted By: rpn453
My car sometimes looks like the bottoms of the doors and rear fenders are already rusting after the oil film creeps out and dust sticks to it.


rpn453 What oil do you have on your car? Is it Krown?

My truck is only two years younger than your car. I would hate to see rust on my truck two years from now.

 

[rpn453]

Originally Posted By: George7941
rpn453 What oil do you have on your car? Is it Krown?

My truck is only two years younger than your car. I would hate to see rust on my truck two years from now.


I'm using red can Rust Check in the doors and the thicker green can Rust Check on the rear fender lips. An application easily lasts through the winter. It worked well to completely halt the progress of door rust on a Chevette I once had and it's inexpensive and readily available so I haven't really looked into any other options.

From what I've heard from eastern Mazda3 owners it seems these Mazdas are prone to early body rust in those areas, so I started applying it a few years ago, during seasonal tire changes. Not a terrible climate for rust here, but it does happen to any vehicle eventually so hopefully this will delay any onset.

 

[antonmnster]

I don't think it looks all that different from the cars I have sitting outside, both of which have been bathed in tons of salt every Minnesota winter for 10-12 years. I suppose the rear subframe in my BMW could have benefited somewhat, but I don't think this stuff would make getting a VW/Audi pinchbolt out any easier.