poor mans engine flush

[cryptokid]

theres huge crud in my engine, like half inch thick stuff. my engine ran severly overhetaed for like a year and cooked oil inside. it get over 400F on the heads . its an aircooled engine so they run hot anyways. normally at 300F i believe. to 400F is beyond flash points of some motor oils!
how can i clean out the crap for cheap?
i was thinking of filling it with atf and towing it around the neighborhood or somthing with the spark plugs removed to minimise stress on the internal parts. if i screw up the engine i dont care really, i awalys hated it and wanted to get another one anyways. i wish i could use diesel but i know how bad diesel is for rubber.

 

[Ken4]

Wouldnt a bottle of any brand engine flush be cheaper & easier than the method you described?

 

[Patman]

Schaeffer Neutra is only about $2 a bottle and half a bottle would clean up that engine. Can't get much cheaper than one dollar!

 

[Rick]

I would be carefull with any flush since the deposits that you are describing is very large, it could all clog your oil pump screen.
What I would do is take one of those shop vacs, remove the valve cover and very carefully scrape away and vac at the same time to catch most of the crap in there, Then I would drop the oil pan.
Clean the pan and the pumps oil screen very very well. Then fill engine with oil and flush. Let idle for 20-25 min then drain oil. Drop pan again, clean the pan and oil screen again.
Chances are that the screen will be full of crap since the engine is very dirty.
You can use cheap oil since you have to change oil again.
Now with the pan and screen clean.
Close and add now oil and filter. Drive arround for 10 miles. Then drain again. This needs to be done because there will still be some of the flush left behind. Drain and change filter.
Then fill with good oil and filter with some Rislone engine cleaner. Drive for 1k miles. Then check oil to see if still dirtly, if so drain, change oil and filter. Then extend drain to 2k miles. Check again. Just because you want to see if the oil and the frequent change are also helping.. Eventually the oil will stay cleaner longer.

 

[Ken2]

I'd get three 12 oz. bottles of Schaeffer's Neutra, four oil filters, and enough cheap oil for four fills.

Use 1/2 bottle of Neutra, new oil and filter. (Add one bottle of Neutra to the gas tank.) Drive 100 miles. Drain. New oil, filter, & 1/2 bottle of Neutra. Drive 200 miles. Drain. New oil, filter, 1/2 bottle of Neutra. Drive 300 miles. Drain. Same routine, drive 500 miles. Drain. Fill with your choice of a good oil (how about a 15W-40 diesel/gasoline oil?) and a good filter.

Both Neutra and Auto-Rx dissolve the gums holding the sludge together very slowly.


Ken

 

[cryptokid]

i cant drop the pan because its an integral part of the block (aircooled) but i can remove the screen with 1 bolt, and clean it. and put it back.

i guess ill try what you guys recomend. sence i can clean the pickup screen so easilly, is there any reason why i souldnt leave the cleaner in longer bwteen changes? its seriously 1 single bolt to remove the screen.

 

[eldawg4100]

hey, since he doesnt care about the engine, lets have him try that RISLONE engine cleaner stuff everybody is up in arms about!?

 

[cryptokid]

fine.
ill try it if someone sends it to me. ill even take pictures of b4 and after and all kinda of stuff.

 

[MolaKule]

I would try a half-gallon (2L) of Lube Control full strength, and new cheap dino oil and filters, like others have suggested.

 

[Rick]

You don't want to drive with engine fluch because it's going to bring the vis to 0w-5.
You'll kill the engine.
Rislone won't it's not hard on the engine, It seems to just contain alot of detergents.
But considering what you have sayed about the crap that has build up. You might not see a huge difference, because it's very mild as opposed to a flush.
With that sayed, If I am wrong and it does work. Think about it, and engine with large quantities of build up running a cleaner in it for god knows how many miles. The pickup screen and filter would get clogged very fast, starving the engine.

 

[dragboat]

What motor are we talking about here ? Air Cooled used in what?

 

[cryptokid]

4 cylinder porsche

my pick up screen is huge so i dont think chunks of hard sludge will hurt anything, its paobably 4-5 times the size of a normal pickup screen, and is shaped like a plastic cup.

 

[Rick]

I'd do it anyway just to be safe. But hey it's your car.

 

[Dr. T]

Great...it's at Walmart!

 

[MolaKule]

LC won't let the viscosity get below a 20 weight. And with all that sludge, I doubt the oil would go below a 30 weight anyhow.


A flush, by definition, is to be used before oil change and not driven. You add flush at warm-up temp, run for 20 minutes at fast idle, and then drain and add new filter.

 

[Pablo]

What a mess. Is the engine still OK?

Obviously you care a little about the engine or you wouldn't be asking. The towing method? I think not.

I go along with the others, but I would follow two treatments of Nuetra with a decent idle flush such as Amsoil Engine flush. (other rag on this product and I agree it's not a super killer flush, I've yet to see it cause problems. Then follow another Nuetra treament.

Then switch to a synthetic oil, but don't do the extended oil change intervals. Synthetic oil will gently clean the engine over 1000's of miles.

 

[cryptokid]

will a bottle of engine flush be strong enough? this engine has literally half inch thick solid sludge build up all over the inside. the only thing not coated in sludge is where parts contact each other. i didnt think schaffers or other motor flushes were designed for ultra severe sludge like this.

 

[cryptokid]

i cant run synthetic, my engine leaks oil bad enough as it is. it seem like everywhere theres a leak, oil cooler, valve cover, front main, case half joint oil filler cap.
i am fixing each leak 1 by 1 but sence its air cooled, oil blows around on the outside making it hard to track where the leak comes from, thats why i have to fix each one, 1 by 1. i fear if i were to apply a synthetic oil i might create a waterfall of oil comming out of every orifice my engine has
you see why i kind of hate this engine. i guess theres just some engines that are have "problem child" syndrome?

ill do the neutra flush and keep usin good ol castrol gtx. only a low weight instead of normal 20w50

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by cryptokid:
i cant run synthetic, my engine leaks oil bad enough as it is. it seem like everywhere theres a leak, oil cooler, valve cover, front main, case half joint oil filler cap.
i am fixing each leak 1 by 1 but sence its air cooled, oil blows around on the outside making it hard to track where the leak comes from, thats why i have to fix each one, 1 by 1. i fear if i were to apply a synthetic oil i might create a waterfall of oil comming out of every orifice my engine has

---

Your engine would do well running a Schaeffer Supreme 7000 blend. It's small amount of PAO (20-25%) is enough to make the oil perform like a fully synthetic oil, but will not be as likely to cause leaks.

 

[mebanditws6]

Time to stock up on some Rislone if you must go the cheap route. 2 bottles of the add anytime stuff or more than a quart of the regular kind would probably do the trick, but it would take several oil changes at around 1k intervals or less (because the filter would probably become full with gunk very quickly) Otherwise auto-rx would do most good.

Jason