Warning: Valve train pics after using cheap oil!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Yeah Jason - It was tongue-in-cheek
Trolling.gif
...thought of you guys as I pulled the valve cover, knowing that I don't really care about brand "X" vs. brand "Y"...and change brands all the time...

Now that I've created the account, here it is...would have been more funny if I had the picture to begin with...

http://s1065.photobucket.com/albums/u384/Rob_Reed14/?action=view&current=photo.jpg

cheers,
Astro


Open mouth, insert foot...........haha

Clean as a whistle!! You def. got me!
 
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
The leftover oil is very DARK color. I wonder what the bottom end looks like. Cam lobes are way too smooth. M1 must've polished the metal. I bet the crosshatch on the cylinder walls is gone as well.

At the very least I would try a flush with Texaco kerosine, followed by a 50/50 mix of Kreen and B-12 Chemtool.

Run Toyota's break-in oil afterwards, it is loaded with moly and unobtanium.


Wait I think this is wrong advice to clean that filthy engine. The last step is to run a MIX of Toyota break in oil (3 parts) 1 part Toyota 0w-20 synthetic, 1 part MMO, for 1 week, use an M1 filter, dump it on a Tuesday, unless there was a new moon within the past fortnight. Replace the filter also, then fill up with 3 parts PYB, just a dab of MMO, 1 part Amsoil HDD !

Then run that for 27.5 kilometers (not miles, that's a rookie mistake). And dump that mixture. Strip and remove the engine and give it a Kerosene bath for 40 days and nights unless a blue moon (meteorological, not traditional farmer's almanac blue moon) is scheduled to happen within 10 business days.

Put it back together and rinse/repeat four more times or until Halloween, whichever comes first.

Only then will your engine be BITOG clean!
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Yeah Jason - It was tongue-in-cheek
Trolling.gif
...thought of you guys as I pulled the valve cover, knowing that I don't really care about brand "X" vs. brand "Y"...and change brands all the time...


You evil, evil little person!! Ha ha. I took the bait, hook, line, and sinker!
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
You evil, evil little person!! Ha ha. I took the bait, hook, line, and sinker!


Agreed! He "conveniently" didn't know about image hosting services. He wanted to see people insert feet into mouths.
wink.gif


He should have waited a while longer before posting the pics! Definitely looks fine to me.
 
Otto - Most of the oil I've bought has been at the Navy Exchange (NEX), when they were clearing out the SM, they had it on sale. Castrol Edge, M1 AFE for $2.98. For some odd reason, M1 TDT and some Castrol Edge was $.98...I verified that they meant to charge that price...and then became a hoarder!
27.gif
 
Just note that I've seen engines with valve cover areas that clean that still had very coked up rings and dirty skirts, etc.

Still could be a lot you cannot see.
 
It's 1ZZ-FE...As previously stated, clearances were OK...no noise, but the manual recommends a clearance check every 60K and the car was getting the oil changed at 93K...so, I thought I would take a look.

People have asked about OCI - put that in my last post: 5K.

Why 5K with good oil? Trying teach my kids that the maintenance light means that the car gets maintenance.

Further, it sees only city driving, short trips, hot weather and teenage operators. If that doesn't count as severe service...I don't know what does...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just note that I've seen engines with valve cover areas that clean that still had very coked up rings and dirty skirts, etc.

Still could be a lot you cannot see.


Which is EXACTLY why I personally do not get excited over valvetrain pictures.
 
Best cheap oil change I got was the current one I am on. 5 quarts of Mobil 1 5000 mile oil for $12.50, and a PureOne Gold for $2.98. No pictures of my valvetrain though. I have a Dodge Van, and that would be a real pain in the [censored] to do.
frown.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top