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Maybe Blackstone mixed up your sample.
Quaker State UD 5w-30, 9200 miles, 2012 Cruze 1.4T
- Thread starter sciphi
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I think I'd use an A3 oil in this engine if I wanted to go more than 7-8K. Something like a mid SAPS, A3 5W30 with TBN around 10. Does anyone make anything like that anymore? Seems like everyone is going low SAPS these days.
Blackstone will check next week if there's enough sample left to re-run the viscosity.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
I'm thinking I like this oil less and less.
I'm thinking I like Blackstone's reports less and less. That zinc number is totally off the wall. If it were true, this oil likely wouldn't meet SN/GF-5 standards, or any modern standards.
If I were working at Blackstone and compiled a report on any API rated oil from 1970 to the present and saw under 500 ppm of zinc, I'd be questioning the result, not inputting it immediately into a report and sending it off without question.
Good point. I may use a different lab next time.
This UOA isn't that bad, but you could maybe improve by using an oil with less viscosity modifiers and a more robust base oil. Might prevent the oil from losing it's viscosity. That can be a problem in some of these energy conserving type oils.
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
I'm thinking I like this oil less and less.
I'm thinking I like Blackstone's reports less and less. That zinc number is totally off the wall. If it were true, this oil likely wouldn't meet SN/GF-5 standards, or any modern standards.
If I were working at Blackstone and compiled a report on any API rated oil from 1970 to the present and saw under 500 ppm of zinc, I'd be questioning the result, not inputting it immediately into a report and sending it off without question.
Good point. I may use a different lab next time.
This UOA isn't that bad, but you could maybe improve by using an oil with less viscosity modifiers and a more robust base oil. Might prevent the oil from losing it's viscosity. That can be a problem in some of these energy conserving type oils.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
This engine is tearing up the oil. I would just continue to current maintenance routine of 8-9K OCI's with the QSUD wear is treading down I do not look at shearing as a bad thing as long as wear is good and it is. Changing the oil at 10% of the OLM is giving you enough insurance and I believe that if it was down to 0% although you would be pushing the limits of this particular PCMO it still would of produced acceptable results. Just continue on with QSUD for another run is what I would do. But this is your car and you can use what engine oil you prefer.
Ya that is true too.
This engine is tearing up the oil. I would just continue to current maintenance routine of 8-9K OCI's with the QSUD wear is treading down I do not look at shearing as a bad thing as long as wear is good and it is. Changing the oil at 10% of the OLM is giving you enough insurance and I believe that if it was down to 0% although you would be pushing the limits of this particular PCMO it still would of produced acceptable results. Just continue on with QSUD for another run is what I would do. But this is your car and you can use what engine oil you prefer.
Ya that is true too.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2605626#Post2605626
Similar results to the M1.
Similar results to the M1.
This is where I think Blackstone misses the boat. I subscribe to the theory that there is a crossover point where the trend line of the TBN going down intersects the trend line of the TBN going down. This is where the oil should be changed. I am always surprised when I read a report that suggests taking the TBN to 1. I have no dog in this fight, but why in the world would you run oil almost 10,000 mile in a brand new car, especially a turbo? It’s your car, so it’s your decision. I’ve started to believe that there is a point where extending drain intervals is a good idea taken too far. I’ve spent my share of money on UOA’s and I’ve come to the conclusion that, for me, it’s better to spend the money for the analysis on an oil change. Just a thought.
Originally Posted By: DCRamsey
This is where I think Blackstone misses the boat....I am always surprised when I read a report that suggests taking the TBN to 1.
Where 'Stone misses the boat is with their shortcut to a TBN number. Essentially their 1 = 2 sort of, maybe sometimes.
This is where I think Blackstone misses the boat....I am always surprised when I read a report that suggests taking the TBN to 1.
Where 'Stone misses the boat is with their shortcut to a TBN number. Essentially their 1 = 2 sort of, maybe sometimes.
All these dexos1 certified oils should produce about the same results. It looks like M1 5w-30 and QSUD 5w-30 are producing similar results over similar mileage with mostly highway driving.
Changing earlier is the only way to avoid the wear. It looks like the OLM on the Cruze 1.4T may be a little optimistic.
Changing earlier is the only way to avoid the wear. It looks like the OLM on the Cruze 1.4T may be a little optimistic.
I'm sorry, I meant TBN going down and the TAN going up.
Originally Posted By: DCRamsey
This is where I think Blackstone misses the boat. I subscribe to the theory that there is a crossover point where the trend line of the TBN going down intersects the trend line of the TBN going down. This is where the oil should be changed. I am always surprised when I read a report that suggests taking the TBN to 1. I have no dog in this fight, but why in the world would you run oil almost 10,000 mile in a brand new car, especially a turbo? It’s your car, so it’s your decision. I’ve started to believe that there is a point where extending drain intervals is a good idea taken too far. I’ve spent my share of money on UOA’s and I’ve come to the conclusion that, for me, it’s better to spend the money for the analysis on an oil change. Just a thought.
Originally Posted By: DCRamsey
This is where I think Blackstone misses the boat. I subscribe to the theory that there is a crossover point where the trend line of the TBN going down intersects the trend line of the TBN going down. This is where the oil should be changed. I am always surprised when I read a report that suggests taking the TBN to 1. I have no dog in this fight, but why in the world would you run oil almost 10,000 mile in a brand new car, especially a turbo? It’s your car, so it’s your decision. I’ve started to believe that there is a point where extending drain intervals is a good idea taken too far. I’ve spent my share of money on UOA’s and I’ve come to the conclusion that, for me, it’s better to spend the money for the analysis on an oil change. Just a thought.
I would try an A3 30 weight, or even a 40 weight and test after that to see how it held up for the same OCI/OLM.
Edit - Mobil product lookup here recommends Dexos -2.
"Specifically designed to meet the needs of GM diesel engines*, dexos2™:
protects diesel engines from harmful soot deposits
is designed with limits on certain chemical components to prolong catalyst life and protect expensive emission reduction systems
is a robust oil, resisting degradation between oil changes and maintaining optimum performance longer
dexos2™ is also the recommended service fill oil for European gasoline engines.
"
An example from Penrite
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/engine-oils/enviro+/enviro+_5w-40
Edit - Mobil product lookup here recommends Dexos -2.
"Specifically designed to meet the needs of GM diesel engines*, dexos2™:
protects diesel engines from harmful soot deposits
is designed with limits on certain chemical components to prolong catalyst life and protect expensive emission reduction systems
is a robust oil, resisting degradation between oil changes and maintaining optimum performance longer
dexos2™ is also the recommended service fill oil for European gasoline engines.
"
An example from Penrite
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/engine-oils/enviro+/enviro+_5w-40
Last edited:
I have a 2011 Cruze with this same 1.4T. I agree that it goes into boost very often which hurts MPGs (on a car touted for it's fuel economy). I think a 1.6 or 1.7T would have been more efficient because it would stay out of boost in intown driving.
I changed my FF at 1600 miles. I changed that fill at 6600 miles (5K on the oil with 41% left on the OLM). Both fills were Mobil 1 5w30.
I plan to ignore the OLM and change the oil at 7 or 7.5K max because I believe it is too optimistic for a small turbocharged, hardworking motor. At this OCI I would have no problem using QSUD, PP, M1, Synpower etc...
I changed my FF at 1600 miles. I changed that fill at 6600 miles (5K on the oil with 41% left on the OLM). Both fills were Mobil 1 5w30.
I plan to ignore the OLM and change the oil at 7 or 7.5K max because I believe it is too optimistic for a small turbocharged, hardworking motor. At this OCI I would have no problem using QSUD, PP, M1, Synpower etc...
I definitely can't complain about fuel economy on this car. I've averaged about 43.4 mpg since I got the car in late August 2011. Then again, it is the fuel economy special.
I'm going to change at about 20% or 15% of the OLM, and no lower. That will leave enough of a safe margin on this engine.
I'm going to change at about 20% or 15% of the OLM, and no lower. That will leave enough of a safe margin on this engine.
Blackstone got back to me today. Viscosity and zinc were very close to what was reported on the UOA.
That reinforces the opinion that I ran this oil just a little too long this change. I think an 8000-8500 mile oil change interval will be perfect for this car, oil, and driving.
That reinforces the opinion that I ran this oil just a little too long this change. I think an 8000-8500 mile oil change interval will be perfect for this car, oil, and driving.
I cant prove it but the latest versions of...
QSUD, PP and PU seem to have the same add pack. TN Moly but no Boron.
Im fairly certain the basestocks are the difference.
QSUD - Hydrocracked Petroleum GIII
PP - Slack Wax GIII
PU - Something Else... I suspect PAO but then others doubt so I dont know.
QSUD, PP and PU seem to have the same add pack. TN Moly but no Boron.
Im fairly certain the basestocks are the difference.
QSUD - Hydrocracked Petroleum GIII
PP - Slack Wax GIII
PU - Something Else... I suspect PAO but then others doubt so I dont know.
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Originally Posted By: sciphi
Blackstone got back to me today. Viscosity and zinc were very close to what was reported on the UOA.
B.S. This is some mixup in the lab. US has no Boron additive. This is some light duty 5w20 oil results.
Blackstone got back to me today. Viscosity and zinc were very close to what was reported on the UOA.
B.S. This is some mixup in the lab. US has no Boron additive. This is some light duty 5w20 oil results.
The values may be off, by QSUD DOES have a Boron additive in it:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2357208&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2357208&page=1
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