Best oil for Honda VCM 3.5L
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Not necessarily. Some of the problems showed up later in life. It is also related to how the engine is used. The 7/2011 TSB blamed it on light throttle conditions causing the VCM to engage and disengage frequently I.e., steady highway cruising. My 2011 Accord hasn't had any problems through 10,000 miles but it is 98% driven in the city.
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Not necessarily. Some of the problems showed up later in life. It is also related to how the engine is used. The 7/2011 TSB blamed it on light throttle conditions causing the VCM to engage and disengage frequently I.e., steady highway cruising. My 2011 Accord hasn't had any problems through 10,000 miles but it is 98% driven in the city.
Steady highway driving would not cause the VCM to turn on and off a lot. It would stay on because you are at a set speed. City driving(stop and go) is what would be causing it to come on and off all the time.
Not necessarily. Some of the problems showed up later in life. It is also related to how the engine is used. The 7/2011 TSB blamed it on light throttle conditions causing the VCM to engage and disengage frequently I.e., steady highway cruising. My 2011 Accord hasn't had any problems through 10,000 miles but it is 98% driven in the city.
Steady highway driving would not cause the VCM to turn on and off a lot. It would stay on because you are at a set speed. City driving(stop and go) is what would be causing it to come on and off all the time.
I posted a tear down thread with pics on one of these engines that had deposit issues.
The PCV in the left valve cover needs regular replacement on these engines, the PCV opening in the valve is only few mm and clogs easily. The 3.5 VCM is positively not a long OCI engine.
I'm almost afraid to post this but..
I put 5w30 or 0w40 in these engines because of the heat generated on the left bank that does all the work in eco mode gets much hotter than the other and the pics of the amount of deposits on that bank prove it.
The mileage difference between 5w30 and 0w40 is negligible and there is no problem with the cam phasers or VCM operating properly even in NE winter.
The PCV in the left valve cover needs regular replacement on these engines, the PCV opening in the valve is only few mm and clogs easily. The 3.5 VCM is positively not a long OCI engine.
I'm almost afraid to post this but..
I put 5w30 or 0w40 in these engines because of the heat generated on the left bank that does all the work in eco mode gets much hotter than the other and the pics of the amount of deposits on that bank prove it.
The mileage difference between 5w30 and 0w40 is negligible and there is no problem with the cam phasers or VCM operating properly even in NE winter.
Trav, have you found the deposit issue in non-VCM engines? That is, does that left cylinder bank run cooler in a non-VCM engine, where the entire engine does the work rather than just one half?
5W-20 PU and Wix filters, current miles on the Accord about 55,000. OCI's at 4500-5000 miles. No oil usage between changes.
With the VCM operation, check that #3 spark plug in particular. I replaced all plugs at 45,000 miles. The only plugs in decent shape at that mileage were #5 and #6.
With the VCM operation, check that #3 spark plug in particular. I replaced all plugs at 45,000 miles. The only plugs in decent shape at that mileage were #5 and #6.
No, only the VCM engines. The normal VTEC doesn't seem any worse than other engines as far as deposits are concerned but the VCM engines really seem tear the oil up under certain conditions.
Even 7500 OCI with synthetic was way to long with one of the VCM engines, the deposits were so bad the engine was stuck running on 3 cyl with multiple misfires and CEL.
I would definitely keep an eye on the small PCV.
The ones that seem to clog are the ones held by a 10mm head bolt in the left valve cover near the front on the side.
I believe these are on 05 and up but i'm not 100% on that info.
These are the threads with the pics for anyone interested.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2245433&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2162603&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2166571&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2172037&page=1
Even 7500 OCI with synthetic was way to long with one of the VCM engines, the deposits were so bad the engine was stuck running on 3 cyl with multiple misfires and CEL.
I would definitely keep an eye on the small PCV.
The ones that seem to clog are the ones held by a 10mm head bolt in the left valve cover near the front on the side.
I believe these are on 05 and up but i'm not 100% on that info.
These are the threads with the pics for anyone interested.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2245433&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2162603&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2166571&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2172037&page=1
I wonder if you could drill out the small PCV a bit to make the hole slightly bigger?
Where is the PCV located on the 3.5L in the Accord? I have never checked ours...because I don't know where it is located.
52k on our 2008, it fouled the #3 plug last winter.
52k on our 2008, it fouled the #3 plug last winter.
I wonder how the new Kendall full synthetic made Honda 0w20 will hold up in these engines in the rear banks. I plan to do the oil changes at the dealer while under warranty but drain the oil right away and put in my Odyssey then fill the Pilot up with Redline 0w20. What do you guys think?
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would definitely keep an eye on the small PCV.
The ones that seem to clog are the ones held by a 10mm head bolt in the left valve cover near the front on the side.
I believe these are on 05 and up but i'm not 100% on that info.
That's where it is on the 3.5L in our MDX. I haven't even pulled mine out, but I do plan to change that valve and all of the spark plugs in the next few months. We have 81k miles on ours.
I would definitely keep an eye on the small PCV.
The ones that seem to clog are the ones held by a 10mm head bolt in the left valve cover near the front on the side.
I believe these are on 05 and up but i'm not 100% on that info.
That's where it is on the 3.5L in our MDX. I haven't even pulled mine out, but I do plan to change that valve and all of the spark plugs in the next few months. We have 81k miles on ours.
Quote:
Where is the PCV located on the 3.5L in the Accord?
No the ECM would probably see that as a vacuum leak and drive the injectors rich to correct a lean condition.
Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
Where is the PCV located on the 3.5L in the Accord?
It should be in the left valve cover near the front on the side.
It is held in with a 10mm head bolt and lays almost flat on the cover.
Where is the PCV located on the 3.5L in the Accord?
No the ECM would probably see that as a vacuum leak and drive the injectors rich to correct a lean condition.
Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
Where is the PCV located on the 3.5L in the Accord?
It should be in the left valve cover near the front on the side.
It is held in with a 10mm head bolt and lays almost flat on the cover.
Hey Trav,
Do you think Mobil-1 0w20 would be a good oil for my 2012 VCM 3.5 V6? I'll probably change oil at 5,000 mile intervals. I'm hoping to use an oil I can buy at Wal-Mart and they have the M1 0w20. They have lots of Pennzoil but no 0w20 oils. Also do you think I should stick with OEM filters or use WIX/NAPA Golds?
Thanks for any advice!
Do you think Mobil-1 0w20 would be a good oil for my 2012 VCM 3.5 V6? I'll probably change oil at 5,000 mile intervals. I'm hoping to use an oil I can buy at Wal-Mart and they have the M1 0w20. They have lots of Pennzoil but no 0w20 oils. Also do you think I should stick with OEM filters or use WIX/NAPA Golds?
Thanks for any advice!
I think either filter is fine the Mobil 1 is also a good choice.
With a 5K OCI it should stay nice and clean.
With a 5K OCI it should stay nice and clean.
Wow, I've used mostly dino in my 2009. Right now I happen to have Valvoline Synpower 5W30. Not because I don't trust 20 weight but just b/c I'm going through my stash. I started with PYB but when I depleted that I just use whatever, usually supplemented by SLOB or auto-rx. I do use oil. This is my wife's car and she does mostly stop and go but does a lot of in town freeway driving. OLM typically goes off between 5-6k miles. But if I'm not careful, her oil level is off the dipstick by about 3k miles. I just found out about the TSB other day and I'm definitely going to get the reflash done when I take mine in for the lift gate strut replacement recall.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I think either filter is fine the Mobil 1 is also a good choice.
With a 5K OCI it should stay nice and clean.
Thanks Trav! Do you think Pennzoil Ultra or Platnum 5w20 would be a better choice then the Mobil 1 0w20 for pure protection and keeping the engine clean? How about Castrol Edge 5w20?
Also the owners book says to not change out the factory fill early and to leave it in the engine till the computer says to change it. I have always dumped the factory fill early and had good results doing so(through UOA). I have heard that Honda uses a special oil for break in and that it should stay in the engine. I'm at 1,000 miles on the car now. What do you think about this? I just want to do what is best for the engine and to ehlp it break in properly so it does not burn oil later or have problems. Many thanks!
I think either filter is fine the Mobil 1 is also a good choice.
With a 5K OCI it should stay nice and clean.
Thanks Trav! Do you think Pennzoil Ultra or Platnum 5w20 would be a better choice then the Mobil 1 0w20 for pure protection and keeping the engine clean? How about Castrol Edge 5w20?
Also the owners book says to not change out the factory fill early and to leave it in the engine till the computer says to change it. I have always dumped the factory fill early and had good results doing so(through UOA). I have heard that Honda uses a special oil for break in and that it should stay in the engine. I'm at 1,000 miles on the car now. What do you think about this? I just want to do what is best for the engine and to ehlp it break in properly so it does not burn oil later or have problems. Many thanks!
I think Mobil 1 or PU are probably the best for keeping things clean. No comment on Edge PM sent.
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