Recommendations please..

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You probably don't need to do a flush if you've been using M1 and changing regularly. It sounds like you have a pretty good plan if you decided to go that route.

As far as oil consumption, M1 is thinner at temperature than many 5w30's. Your oil consumption might be normal for this oil. If you want to reduce oil consumption, you may need to selecte a 5w30 or 10w30 with higher viscosity (see product spec sheets or the virgin analisys on this site). Or if you are the experimenting type, you can try the 0w40 Mobil 1 and probably get rid of oil burning, but do this only if you feel comfortable using something that isn't recommended in your owners manual.
 
Pour in a bottle of Rislone "add anytime" Engine Treatment. Leave it in for around 700 miles, drain and refill with what you want. It works, costs under $3.00 and without the BS of flushes.
 
Hello all.
Just wanted your input for my next oil change. I have ’98 Pontiac Transport/Montana 3.4L with almost 85k km on it and getting ready for my next oil change. I have been using synthetics (M1/Q-State/Castrol…..) since I have owned the vehicle (purchased at17k km).
I do A LOT of short distance driving, some under 5km…
Seems like my oil consumption has increased, even though I expect a little because we are now in cold weather start-ups.
For my next oil change I am thinking of adding a bottle of the Gunk engine flush, idle for 5 mins (as per instructions) and drain. Then fill with an inexpensive 10w30 weight, run for another 5 mins and drain and filter change (K&N). I am also planning to use the compressed air blow through, as I have just read in this forum.
Then I will fill with the new M1 5W30.

Any recommendations..??
Thanks
Jean
 
Update..
Well after a little pondering. I decided I wasnt going to use the Gunk engine flush, since I have been using synthetics from the start, I though it might be a little to harsh. So in went the Rislone -add anytime- oil treatment and I will change the the oil as soon as we are out of this deep-freeze cold snap.
canada.gif

Jean
 
As per the web-site...
"Rislone Engine Treatment® is a high quality lubricating oil combined with protective engine additives and unique engine cleaning additives. Its multi-grade formula allows the oil to flow freely and provides protection over a broader temperature range. Rislone's high quality base oil has penetrating characteristics that help it carry the solvents and dispersants into the valve seats, piston rings and bearing surfaces more effectively and easily than motor oil alone.


Rislone Engine Treatment gradually dissolves and removes harmful deposits of varnish, sludge and gum from the internal metal parts without plugging oil passages. These deposits form within engines and can alter tolerances, stick valves and rings, cause noisy valves and lifters, and plug oil screens and oil passages. Regular use of Rislone engine Treatment, with oil and filter changes at the proper intervals, will keep such deposits to a minimum. "

As for the exact composition... thier MSDS is not very revealing...
 
Is it readily available at Can. Tire...as I dont'recall seeing it off hand...???
 
Gunk is awfully harsh stuff. I would consider a gentler cleaner if I were you. See if you can get some Neutra 131 in your area. You will put it into to your crankcase for at a rate of about 1 oz per quart and drive with it for about 500 miles…then drain oil. If you suspect you are sludgy, then start with fresh, high quality dino oil (like Chevron Supreme) and a clean oil filter. If you are going to use over the counter syn oil, then the M1 is your best choice, since it is “truly” synthetic compared to the other so-called synthetics that are really just severely hydrocracked dino oil.
 
Thanks for the Neutra recommendation.. I dont think I can get this product up here..

offtopic.gif
Since you mentioned M1 in a true synthetic
Can you offer a short list of the brands you consider -true- synth and the others that are "fake" (for lack of a better word).
Thanks
Jean
 
You can get Schaeffer Neutra up here, you can order it from Tracy Briggs in BC, his email is on the site supporters page here. I ordered a full case from him.
 
2K2AcuraTL, 87,000 miles , or 387,000 miles it makes no difference. Any synthetic oil will keep your engine extremely clean inside forever. If you paid a mechanic $30 to remove a valve cover you could see this for yourself.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Malibu:
2K2AcuraTL, 87,000 miles , or 387,000 miles it makes no difference. Any synthetic oil will keep your engine extremely clean inside forever. If you paid a mechanic $30 to remove a valve cover you could see this for yourself.

Not true. I believe all the experts on here will agree that even some synthetics will not keep the engine clean forever. My mom's Probe GT has run nothing but Mobil 1 but I bet the inside looks pretty dirty right now as her valvetrain noise has gone up a lot.
 
Why would you put a oil based or solvent based product in your engine ? If this was of benefit don't you think perhaps a oil company would incorporate this into there additive package in the quart you buy? Oil does not clean it lubricates Oil does not wear out it gets dirty
Clean your oil and add a fresh additive package you could run it a long time. You can buy recyled oil from the D.O.D its been cleaned and replenished with new additive package.
Flushes "SHOCK the OIl and have a high percentage of creating particles that can stop up a oil screen, wrist pin, piston port. Oil Additives have
but one purpose thats to cover up noises from your engine. Mobil, Shell, BP, all know that Valvoline found out the hard way with the infamous "TMG Additive" than there is "Kendall Oil" and ther miracle additve a few years ago You
could not make this up cleansing an engine is not the same as flushing one.
 
quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
Order Auto-Rx online from www.auto-rx.com. slow/gentle cleanr that works. Many posts on this forum re Auto-Rx if you havn't heard of it?

Yes I took a quick look at the auto-rx web-site, very interesting at the very least, I understand a lot of members here have a lot of confidence in this product.
But after an experience of buying something (at a value between 40-50$US)via the net from the USA, once you add the exchange /the added shipping cost to Canada, then the customs and excise people want a cut also.. this article actually cost close to $80.00 CDN. yikes... that puts auto-rx out reach IMO...
Jean
 
I agree with Sprintman, it does work well enough to make it worth it. It ended up costing me $75 for one bottle up here. But my oil analysis results were drastically improved after using it.

Besides, when Frank found out how much it cost me, he sent me a second bottle free! I'm not saying he'll do that for everyone in Canada, but email him privately and he might be able to cut you a good deal on a bigger order (you could put some in other friends or family member's cars and split the cost with them)
 
Why would you put a oil based or solvent based product in your engine ? If this was of benefit don't you think perhaps a oil company would incorporate this into there additive package in the quart you buy?

By that logic, why wouldn't the oil companies add auto-rx or neutra to their oils??????

[ January 26, 2003, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: tenderloin ]
 
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