169,000 mi Mercury Sable (2003) AX4N 3.0 Vulcan V6

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 12, 2012
Messages
442
Location
Mount Holly New Jersey
Okay, this is the sable i post about when i talk about it.

I have the AX4N (the "Good" transmission for these cars) it takes 13.5 quarts of Mercon V, now i am unsure of when the trans fluid was last changed, but i do know that i can empty the torque converter by disconnecting it from the trans cooler, and just let it idle out the fluid.

Now my question, should i drain the fluid out, it is dark colored and has a varnish smell, but passes a drip test on a paper towel, as it spreads out properly. Or should i just leave it as is due to the high milage. I do not intend to power flush the fluid out, or add any additives prior to it, if i do change the fluid it will be Mercon V, not Mercon/Dex, or mercon III, or any multi ATF.

Also, what brand of trans filter do you reccomend, i was thinking going to NAPA and getting it all there using my grandfathers AAA card and 3.5% sales tax (most stores are 7%)
 
I would drop the pan and change the filter. Any brand will due. Re-fill with M1 ATF and run it a few days, then suck the ATF out with a hand held pump($10 from any parts store) through the oil fill hole, and re-fill. While you are at it, turky baster the PS pump and re-fill with M1 ATF. Do this at every engine oil change.
 
Last edited:
Ford shop manual says to fully drain it out i can just unhook the cooler line, and have it push out via the torque converter, flushing the lines in the process.
 
The drip test related more to combustion byproducts, it's not going to tell you much about additive depletion or shearing of the fluid. If you don't know, I'd change it out.

If I were in your shoes, and assuming I were looking to get some mileage out of this car, I'd probably drop the pan, install a drain plug in the pan while it's out of there, and change the pan filter. Then, I'd do a full cooler line flush until it runs clear. After than, I'd probably just do a drain/fill every 30K.

As far as the fluid choice goes, I'd go with Mobil 1 syn ATF. I say that as one who is generally suspicious of generic ATF's. M1 claims it meets the specs, and they don't make that claim about a million different transmissions--so I'm inclined to trust they've tested it. Given how it's help up in my power steering, it seems like a lot higher quality fluid than Ford's Merc or MercV.
49.gif
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
The drip test related more to combustion byproducts, it's not going to tell you much about additive depletion or shearing of the fluid. If you don't know, I'd change it out.

If I were in your shoes, and assuming I were looking to get some mileage out of this car, I'd probably drop the pan, install a drain plug in the pan while it's out of there, and change the pan filter. Then, I'd do a full cooler line flush until it runs clear. After than, I'd probably just do a drain/fill every 30K.

As far as the fluid choice goes, I'd go with Mobil 1 syn ATF. I say that as one who is generally suspicious of generic ATF's. M1 claims it meets the specs, and they don't make that claim about a million different transmissions--so I'm inclined to trust they've tested it. Given how it's help up in my power steering, it seems like a lot higher quality fluid than Ford's Merc or MercV.
49.gif



I was thinking about the drain plug, but i decided that it is just as easy, given the fact that i can do this on a saturday morning at work, with a catch pan capable of handling diesel oil in the gallons, that i can do it without making a mess.

I will probably pickup mobil 1. Any word on how good or bad napa fluid is?
 
Originally Posted By: Stephen_G

I have the AX4N (the "Good" transmission for these cars) it takes 13.5 quarts of Mercon V, now i am unsure of when the trans fluid was last changed, but i do know that i can empty the torque converter by disconnecting it from the trans cooler, and just let it idle out the fluid.


If you do that you need to be adding fluid at the same time. Running a torque converter dry is not good for it. A healthy one can tolerate that, but do you really know how healthy yours is? Do you want to find out?
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: Stephen_G

I have the AX4N (the "Good" transmission for these cars) it takes 13.5 quarts of Mercon V, now i am unsure of when the trans fluid was last changed, but i do know that i can empty the torque converter by disconnecting it from the trans cooler, and just let it idle out the fluid.


If you do that you need to be adding fluid at the same time. Running a torque converter dry is not good for it. A healthy one can tolerate that, but do you really know how healthy yours is? Do you want to find out?


how bad would it be just to drop the pan and refill what was dropped?
 
It can't hurt anything but you won't get nearly as much of the old fluid out. On the up side you get to wipe off the magnet.
 
Originally Posted By: Stephen_G

how bad would it be just to drop the pan and refill what was dropped?


In my experience with a different transmission (Volvo's Aisin boxes), the best way seem to be to do both: drain the pain, fill it back up with the same amount you removed, then pull the cooler line. You'll end up only using about an extra qt, since the stuff filling the torque converter pumps out before the pan is drained (at least that's how the fluid is routed in most transmissions).

I agree with the point about not running things dry. The generally accepted Volvo procedure is to let it idle and drain two quarts, turn the engine off and fill up two quarts, rinse/repeat. That way you can add the same amount as you remove (or close), then do the final fluid level check--and the fluid level never gets too low. Needless to say, a second pair of hands can help.

As far as the drain plug, I figure it'll just make subsequent drain/fills easier. I doubt you'd have to touch the gasket or filter again for the life of the car. Of course, you could also just pull the cooler line and pump out 4-5 qts. every 30K.

BTW, I've seen M1 ATF on Fleabay for pretty cheap, $6.99 including shipping. Seems like a decent deal.
 
All Mercon V has to meet the minimum specification. Walmart sells it for around $4.50 a quart. Napa filter will be fine. the only difference would be the gasket. some are cheap others better.
 
Doesn't this have a reusable pan gasket? They can eventually go bad, but if you find one that does somehow leak why not spend the $30 or so for an OE replacement gasket that will last another decate or two? To replace one that doesn't leak yet with some paper or rubber garbage that's all but guaranteed to leak is not a good way to go.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Doesn't this have a reusable pan gasket? They can eventually go bad, but if you find one that does somehow leak why not spend the $30 or so for an OE replacement gasket that will last another decate or two? To replace one that doesn't leak yet with some paper or rubber garbage that's all but guaranteed to leak is not a good way to go.


I am getting the gasket as a security measure, just incase it was replaced by a prior owner. If it is the reusable ford one, it stays. if not, it gets replaced.
 
I'd recommend to call your local Ford dealer and see if you can get a deal on a case of Motorcraft Mercon V. I have heard the certifications and meeting the requirements but I started having transmission shudders a month after changing ATF from Motorcraft Mercon V to a mix of Castrol, Valvoline, and Motorcraft (already had some of each). For now a bottle of Lubegard platinum fixed this issue, but I am going back to Motorcraft on the next ATF change.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Zako2
I'd recommend to call your local Ford dealer and see if you can get a deal on a case of Motorcraft Mercon V. I have heard the certifications and meeting the requirements but I started having transmission shudders a month after changing ATF from Motorcraft Mercon V to a mix of Castrol, Valvoline, and Motorcraft (already had some of each). For now a bottle of Lubegard platinum fixed this issue, but I am going back to Motorcraft on the next ATF change.


I wish the dealer near me was nice on pricing of that stuff. Last i checked it was a bit expensive for me to buy fluid from them.
 
Originally Posted By: Stephen_G
Originally Posted By: Zako2
I'd recommend to call your local Ford dealer and see if you can get a deal on a case of Motorcraft Mercon V. I have heard the certifications and meeting the requirements but I started having transmission shudders a month after changing ATF from Motorcraft Mercon V to a mix of Castrol, Valvoline, and Motorcraft (already had some of each). For now a bottle of Lubegard platinum fixed this issue, but I am going back to Motorcraft on the next ATF change.


I wish the dealer near me was nice on pricing of that stuff. Last i checked it was a bit expensive for me to buy fluid from them.


I'd buy the dealer's fluid as long as they charge $7 or less. This is still very close to Auto Parts store prices when stuff is not on sale. One time, surprisingly I got Mercon V fluid from dealer for about $2.5 a quart at the time when everyone's price was $4 or more.
 
I just checked O'Reilly's. They have Motorcraft Mercon V priced at $4.99 a quart.
 
Originally Posted By: Mark_S

I just checked O'Reilly's. They have Motorcraft Mercon V priced at $4.99 a quart.


Cheap but not near me.

they run commercials on the oldies station i listen to, which is a NJ/PA/DE station...and the nearest store is in VA or Ohio.
 
I plan on using Mobil Synthetic ATF....instead of Mercon V.... for my next ATF change.

Opinions please: Would you still use Lubegard Red with the Mobil Syn ATF? .... or should I skip it?
 
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
I plan on using Mobil Synthetic ATF....instead of Mercon V.... for my next ATF change.

Opinions please: Would you still use Lubegard Red with the Mobil Syn ATF? .... or should I skip it?


Lubeguard is liquid gold. Use it with confidence
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top