2012 Honda Accord 2.4li - Which Oil to use?

[fastsvo]

Hi Folks,

Picked up a brand new Accord and currently has 5,500 miles and has yet to receive an oil change. Honda's oil life meter has it pegged to around 40% right now.

According to the dealer, I shouldn't bother going with a full synthetic and that Honda's semi-synthetic is the perfect choice for this car. They say get an oil change when the meter hits 20%.

2 questions:

1) Which brand of oil would you recommend (semi-syn, full syn, weight, etc..)

2) What should my OCI be at? 5k, 7k, 10k,??

I don't mind ponying up the extra $$ if it's really going to make a difference.

Thanks!

 

[SilverGGA]

For Honda's maintenance minder, 15% means "service soon" while 5% means "service now".

Your car specifies 0w-20 so going with a synthetic 0w-20 is a sensible choice.

1) Mobil 1 0w-20 or Honda full synthetic 0w-20, whichever you can get for cheaper. Walmart has great price for Mobil 1.

2) Change @ 5% maintenance minder

 

[wolfc70]

You can run any 0w-20. If you hit up the Honda parts guy, you might get a decent price on a case of the Honda Semi-syn. Most won't budge on the full syn price. The Honda filter sold at most dealers is a Honeywell, and is a bit overpriced, so I would buy that elsewhere.

Oil changes are super simple on this car. I don't know about dealers in your area, but where I live they charge a pretty steep price for the 0w-20 oil change. It is very tempting to use the M1 AFE 0w-20 at Wal-Mart, very good price!

 

[bourne]

Where you live, u should have many Toyota dealerships around. If you can't get Honda 0w20 at a good price , hit the Toyota dealers up. Their 0w20 full syn made by xom is very good. Lowest price I found in my area was 5.17 a qt.

 

[Hokiefyd]

I like the Mobil 1 0W-20 or Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20. Both can be bought at Walmart for around 26 bucks for the 5-quart jug, and you can even pick up a quality Purolator Classic filter there for something like $3.47. Can't beat it.

 

[Oil Changer]

I bought an '11 CR-V in December which utilizes the same engine as yours. It has just over 6000 miles now with 30% on the MM. So it looks like ~7500 will be my magic number of my first oil change.

Until this purchase, I had little interest in 0W-20 grade oil since I had no use for it. Post purchase, I learned everything I could. Here are a couple key points I learned:

1. Honda is the only manufacturer in which I read with my own eyes that claims to use a special break-in oil. It says so three times in my owner's manual (OM).

2. The OM and the dealer both are vehement about leaving the factory fill (FF)in until at least 15% on the MM.

3. In '11, Honda re-designed the oil control rings and pistons which now have moly-impregnated skirts.

4. A member here did a UOA on his FF to find that the oil appeared to be run-of-the-mill 20 grade oil with lots of moly.

5. Search for member "CATERHAM". He is the resident BITOG 0W-20 expert. You will learn alot from his posts.

6. Of course the dealer is going to say that their oil is best. But we know better. The following is CATERHAM's list (in order) of the perferred 20 grade oils for use in your new vehicle:

-Sustina 0W-20
-Toyota
-OEM Mazda, Mitsubishi, Cdn Honda/Acura and Subaru 0W-20s made by Idemitsu (SM, GF-4 only)
-ENEOS
-RP
- American Honda 0W-20 made by COP (full syn)
- American Honda 0W-20 " " (syn' blend)
-PP/QSUD 0W-20
-Texas Tea 0W-20
-Mobil Special 0W-20
-M1 AFE 0W-20
-Valvoline 0W-20
-Subaru 0W-20 (SN, GF-5)
-Beck/Arnley 0W-20 (SN, GF-5)
-Castrol 0W-20 (SN, GF-5)
-Other 0W-20s

7. I bought a case of Toyota's oil; a very high VI, very high moly concentrated oil which myself and a few others feel will make for a great initial first fill to replace the FF. Just make sure it is the SM variety.

Don't get paranoid or obsessed. Change your FF when the MM says to (15% or less), use one of the above listed oils, and your engine will outlast your interest in the car.

Also, make sure you change your oil drain plug crush washer each change. I always use OEM filters. My dealer charged me eight dollars. After I'm done with the case of Toyota oil, I will use Eneos.

 

[wolfc70]

Oh, yeah enjoy the Accord! If you got the 5M/T, you will get some very impressive MPG numbers. Even with all city driving, I have to really abuse the throttle to get the EPA 24 MPG in the city. On the Interstate I can easily get 35 MPG with my record at 37 for freeway and 40 for two lane (65 MPH max). When I got 40 MPG, I got 701 miles on the tank just as the low fuel light came on. The K24 motors are absolutely amazing!

 

[Chris Meutsch]

Depends on your driving habits. I have the 2.4 and do 10k runs on PP 5w20 but I'm doing those miles in 2-2.5 months on the highway. If you're all city, I'd put in whatever 5 or 0w20 you'd like and use the MM down to 5-10% and change it then. That's what I do on the wife's Pilot as it's a city car. Usually average 6500-7k between changes but that's the V6 too.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: wolfc70
Oh, yeah enjoy the Accord! If you got the 5M/T, you will get some very impressive MPG numbers. Even with all city driving, I have to really abuse the throttle to get the EPA 24 MPG in the city. On the Interstate I can easily get 35 MPG with my record at 37 for freeway and 40 for two lane (65 MPH max). When I got 40 MPG, I got 701 miles on the tank just as the low fuel light came on. The K24 motors are absolutely amazing!


That's great. Though we didnt have good success with plastic/rubber parts on our integra, the engine was tight and efficient, like new at 188k when it was taken by rust.

For an EPA large car, with MT and 4 cyl, the MT accord really is a great option for the car buying public. Hope they dont make that variant extinct...

 

[BrianWC]

Those k24's are pretty nice 4 cyl engines. I have two of them now. The 02 CR-V was one of the first. I've feed that thing all sorts of random oils in varying weights. Not that I recommend that but it takes it without a hiccup.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

On my new fit I tried a lot of oil and filter combos, but by FAR the wix 57356 (NOT 51356!) and Defy 5w20 worked BETTER than OEM. The OEM Fram/honda filter is NOT the best choice ( to say the least!). Honda uses the same filter # on most all their engine. I couldn't get the vtec to engage after OCI # 1 with Idemitsu 0w20 and the honda filter. Went to the purolator - it was a bit better but still not right - then the wix was up and was the killer and with the defy 5w20 smoothed the engine out - no more VT or piston racket and smooth revving and power right up to redline. IDK if this combo will work as well with the 180hp 2.4L. Nice engine. I was looking for a 5M accord but couldnt find one. No need for 0w-20 in moderate climates - it will be compromised over a 5w in a semi-syn blend. If you get the 0w through a real synthetic it should not be compromised.

 

[buster]

Interesting ARCO. Defy looks like a decent oil, but it contains SL levels of ZDP and seems more ideal for engines with flat tappet cams. Noack volatility is 13%the for their 5w20.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I dont know whats all in it(DEFY), but a good oil is a good oil and this is a good oil in this application. Seems extra zdp helps piston turnaround stick/slip and the attendant racket - but it usually takes over 1200ppm phos to be noticable and this doesnt have that (only 25% more - I ask more than what?)

 

[HTSS_TR]

Longo Toyota in El Monte usually have synthetic 0W20 on sale once every other month for less than $5/qt with coupon in Penny Savers.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
On my new fit I tried a lot of oil and filter combos, but by FAR the wix 57356 (NOT 51356!) and Defy 5w20 worked BETTER than OEM.

The specs of Wix 57356 and 51356 are identical, why are the differences between the two ?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Dont know - I bought one of each filter at SANEL Auto Parts in Raymond, NH. I really wanted to run the 51356 due to the larger inlet holes and silicone rubber ADBV. With that installed, the car felt like I was pumping SAE 50 through it. Put on the 573 spec unit and it ran fine. The 573 has small inlet hole ala Purolator. Note that the Fit L15A7 engine has a weird "variable efficency" oil pump (to save fuel - remember it takes horsepower to pump oil at 50psi and XX GPH) and who knows what may affect it's proper operation. I just try combos until the car runs well. This was only necessary due to Auto Manuf parts counters only stocking non-OE filters (not the JDM OEM) in the USA that perform differently to the installed unit. Honda sells only a suspect Honeywell/FRAM unit. Three years ago I would have said you are CRAZY telling me two different brand oil filters would make an engine run differently. Now I know otherwise after MUCh experimentation. Time I would rather not have had to spend messing around.

 

[buster]

ARCO, was Defy much different than the previous oils you tried? Thanks.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Like I said, Smooth and velvety. Dont know why - just is. The Old QS redbottle has always been this way. It is more viscous than the suspect near 0w-10 grade factory or the very, very light 0w20 Idemitsu non-ilsac SM.

 

[buster]

 

[fastsvo]

Thanks for all the replies.

I had no idea Honda had filled the motor with special break in oil and that waiting until 10% oil life is ok.

I definitely want to keep the original Honda fill as long as possible before it's time for the first OCI.

Since the first oil change is free, I will take advantage of the dealer's generosity and most likely from there on out, I will do the OCI's myself and shoot for a full synthetic blend.

Thanks!