How to clean cylinder head surfaces?

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I fixed the head gasket on my 1999 Buick Century last year but now it's not sealing properly. Either I didn't clean it good enough or it was warped. The head bolts were also replaced.

I'm going to fix it again. Last time, I used Fel-Pro PermaDry but this time, I'm going to use the PermaTorque. They don't cost much more and they look better.

This time, I'm going to take the cylinder heads to a machine shop to make sure they're perfectly flat.

What should I use to clean the mating surfaces? The engine block is cast iron but the cylinder heads are aluminum.
 
Be sure the head surface is flat, as there is no gasket that can compensate for a warped head. I always send heads to the machine shop for a resurface every time I remove one. I don't like to do a messy job twice. Also be sure that the bolt holes in the block are clean because dirty or corroded threads will give an inaccurate torque when the head is replaced. I use a gasket scraper and sometimes Scotch Bright to clean the deck of the block.
 
The FelPro Perma-torque blue head gaskets are excellent sealing gaskets. They can overcome minor surcace irregularities better than most any other gasket.

When you take the head in, have it pressure tested also it you are having coolant leakage.

Also replace the head bolts again, as those are torque to yield bolts.

As far as cleaning and appearance, it must be perfectly spotless with no areas in question.

There may be useful info here:
http://www.fme-cat.com/Docs/1425.pdf
 
Use Scotch-Brite on both surfaces, in an elliptical pattern (not side to side or in and out).

And make sure they are contaminant free, I usually use rubbing alcohol on a cotton cloth for that one.
 
Scotchbrite on an air or electric tool works great. Don't let debris get in the cylinders, oil, or coolant holes.
Heads can warp - have it checked. Blocks can too, but it is rare.
 
I tried scotch brite and a razor blade and they both worked pretty well.

I got my engine apart in about 4 hours today. I think that's pretty good considering that it took me almost a month the first time.
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Hopefully I get it right the second time and don't have to do it again. This is my first car and I don't plan on selling it anytime soon.
 
Clean and check EVERY part. Bolts, tapped holes, surfaces... everything.
These extra steps will take another 1/2 hour/hour. But it makes the difference to get years of trouble free life [without later work or thinking about it].
 
True...
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Clean and check EVERY part. Bolts, tapped holes, surfaces... everything.
These extra steps will take another 1/2 hour/hour. But it makes the difference to get years of trouble free life [without later work or thinking about it].
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
You are supposed to use a chase on the bolt holes. You can cheat and use a tap if you don't have one.

I was told that using an old head bolt was enough.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
You are supposed to use a chase on the bolt holes. You can cheat and use a tap if you don't have one.

I was told that using an old head bolt was enough.


The problem with using an old bolt is that it doesn't have any "slots" in it to catch the dirt/contaminants and remove them from the threads, so it either grinds them into the threads (bad) or pushes them down into the hole further (bad).

A chase or tap, because it has slots, will remove the contaminants from the threads. You have to be careful with the tap though of course because it is designed to cut.
 
Originally Posted By: johnsmellsalot
These bolts have to be replaced because they are stretch head bolts. They stretch when you torque them down.


The term is "Torque To Yield" or TTY for short. And yes, they are a single use fastener as the name implies.
 
I also want to ask how to clean the roller lifters. I don't think oil is flowing through some of them.

It kinda makes a noise when the engine is cold. It could also be piston slap.

In this video, this guy uses Berryman B-12 carburetor cleaner to clean them. http://youtu.be/4RecrxxLT4s

Are there more effective ways to clean the lifters since I have access to them?

Also, I notice that one side of the lifter has a small hole and one side doesn't. Does it matter which way they face?
 
Normally, policy is to put them hole-down (away from the valley) however I've read that it doesn't really matter.

Yes, you can soak them in something like B12, or another solvent. Just be sure to clean them off thoroughly, then soak them overnight in oil before re-installing them.
 
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