Mobil 1 vs. Pennzoil Platinum

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: pbm
I think both are excellent oils.
If I had to choose I'd go with Mobil 1.
I recently helped a co-worker change his oil (2007 Yaris) and I was impressed with the Mobil 1 EP that came out with 10K on it.
It felt like it would have done 15K easily.


Just wondering how you were "impressed" and how you "felt" it would have done 15k "easily"?

Since its a 15k oil (or sorry... up to) why was it changed out at 10k?

Again just wondering...

Thanks, bill



I figured somebody would ask this question.
I usually don't go by 'feel' but the oil still felt like new (no gritiness, etc..) and was barely discolored. I know this means nothing but after nearly 40 years of changing oil you get a feeling....
He wanted to change it since he had never gone 10K before and also because he used a regular Purolator filter.
He replaced the M1 with Valvoline synthetic (because AZ had it on sale). I don't think I would go 10K on Valvoline.

 

[BearZDefect]

Originally Posted By: 08sienna
I am surprised this isn't pointed out:

M1: A1/B1, A5/B5 approved
PP: A1/B1 only


Are you comparing PP 5w-20 to M1 5w-30?

I believe 5w-20 cannot qualify for ACEA A5/B5 simply due to viscosity. See the HTHS in your quoted spec.

The PP xw-30 I've purchased in the past were all A5/B5 approved. Has that changed recently? Next time it's convenient I'll look at some newer stock in a store.

 

[08sienna]

Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
Originally Posted By: 08sienna
I am surprised this isn't pointed out:

M1: A1/B1, A5/B5 approved
PP: A1/B1 only


Are you comparing PP 5w-20 to M1 5w-30?

I believe 5w-20 cannot qualify for ACEA A5/B5 simply due to viscosity. See the HTHS in your quoted spec.

The PP xw-30 I've purchased in the past were all A5/B5 approved. Has that changed recently? Next time it's convenient I'll look at some newer stock in a store.


I am comparing 5W-30 to 5W-30. Take a close look at the PP 5W-30 bottle. A5/B5 is mentioned nowhere.. only A1/B1.

 

[hemitruck]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Both are fine oils but M1 has the superior base stock.


is this still true since they merged with exon? tks

 

[aquariuscsm]

M1. My reasoning is I`d bought some PP 5W50 awhile back and the bottles had this sludgy stuff on the bottom which resembled dry/cracked mud. It was a sealed case I`d bought from Napa which had a "born on" date that was under a year old.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: Capa
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
I have always been a M1 fan but am thinking about using PP more because it may clean better... Does PP really clean better then M1?


Using Pennzoil's numbers where PU cleans so much better than PP, which cleans so much better than their dino, etc., and where PU was compared to M1, M1 cleans 10% better than PP (if you trust all those numbers).


This is the confusing part. Pennzoil states PP will keep your engine up 40% cleaner, but PYB states that it will clean up to 40% sludge on the first oil change.

 

[buster]

I think the quality gap among synthetics has closed significantly. I'd say PP is as good as M1 maybe better/worse in some areas. Flip a coin.

 

[nepadriver]

Wouldn't the prudent thing here be virgin oil analysis from multiple labs done in a blind test? Then compare UOA on multiple vehicles driven in multiple environments with different driving styles (highway/city/short trips etc) and monitor their UOA over the course of years? Perhaps two identical cars to start ? Someone get on that...

 

[nitehawk55]

I think most modern oils syn and dino are all pretty much one as good as another .
Boutique oils such as RP and Amsoil may have a slight edge but if any of these oils are used within specific OCI's and driving conditions I'm betting you would see little difference over the life of the vehical .

 

[zerosoma]

If they were the same price I'd go with Mobil 1

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
Boutique oils such as RP and Amsoil may have a slight edge but if any of these oils are used within specific OCI's and driving conditions I'm betting you would see little difference over the life of the vehical .


Bingo. As for the cleaning properties of any oils that make such claims, remember they all use certain qualifiers, including grade, and certainly cherry pick their results.

 

[mr_diy]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: mr_diy
I use to believe in M1 being the superior retail syn, but after 50k on a GM ShortStar which developed stuck piston rings, I lost my faith. I am currently attempting to clear the problem. Anyway I like PP and PU claims to clean pistons and sludge. I have some PU (FAR) to try next OC.


What oci`s (mileage) were you doing?


I started M1 at 1st OC at 2500 miles and OCI was 6 mos (miles between 4056 and 5803, except one at 7507). 5W30. mixed city/highway, daily trips ~7 miles one-way, light on the petal. 1st low oil started at 59160 then down a quart every 1000-2000 miles. No gasket leaks and no apparent exhaust smoke. Symptoms like many NS and SS engines of stuck oil control rings. Went through possible solutions; PVC, GM engine clean, RL blend 1/6 several OCs, PF and SF in intake and piston soaks, and recently a MMO soak, and Gumout TFS cleaner (per BITOG threads). Years ago I turned the car over to my boys use (high school and now college) so much less usage. Switched to lower priced oils once comsumption started, and once a year OC (~4k-7k miles) and ~3 qts of make up oil. Oil consumption most apparent on long highway trips, 1qt per 1k miles. Mileage now around 95k and isn't worth major repair effort at this point. Will soon check oil level to see if MMO soak and TFS cleaner netted any changes.

 

[mr_diy]

Originally Posted By: mr_diy
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: mr_diy
I use to believe in M1 being the superior retail syn, but after 50k on a GM ShortStar which developed stuck piston rings, I lost my faith. I am currently attempting to clear the problem. Anyway I like PP and PU claims to clean pistons and sludge. I have some PU (FAR) to try next OC.


What oci`s (mileage) were you doing?


I started M1 at 1st OC at 2500 miles and OCI was 6 mos (miles between 4056 and 5803, except one at 7507). 5W30. mixed city/highway, daily trips ~7 miles one-way, light on the petal. 1st low oil started at 59160 then down a quart every 1000-2000 miles. No gasket leaks and no apparent exhaust smoke. Symptoms like many NS and SS engines of stuck oil control rings. Went through possible solutions; PVC, GM engine clean, RL blend 1/6 several OCs, PF and SF in intake and piston soaks, and recently a MMO soak, and Gumout TFS cleaner (per BITOG threads). Years ago I turned the car over to my boys use (high school and now college) so much less usage. Switched to lower priced oils once comsumption started, and once a year OC (~4k-7k miles) and ~3 qts of make up oil. Oil consumption most apparent on long highway trips, 1qt per 1k miles. Mileage now around 95k and isn't worth major repair effort at this point. Will soon check oil level to see if MMO soak and TFS cleaner netted any changes.


After 1200 miles, needed 1 qt added.
FYI, for the MMO soak I rotated the crank to allow 3 cylinders to be fully filled to cover the rings all around, then after 24hrs I siphoned it out and repeated on the other 3 cylinders.

 

[tig1]

You know, you may a broken ring on one of the pistons. There is something mechanical in nature that has failed.IMO