STP 6000 mile oil extender

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 15, 2002
Messages
24
Location
Omaha, NE
What is in it and is it a good thing?
Could it be used to help an oil with a weak additive package? (Here I am trying to be a chemist again.) It doesn't seem to be thick like their other oil treatments.
A local Advance Auto has a bunch of this and I was wondering if it was worth picking some up.
I'm sorry if this has been discussed before but I am pretty new to this board.

[ June 20, 2002, 05:19 AM: Message edited by: omaha2.5rs ]
 
I thought that I read on the Edmunds board that this product contains moly in it. I thought it was discontinued though (problem with the labelling?) so if you find it the stuff could be pretty old. Not sure if that's a problem or not though.
 
Aftermarket oil additives are not good for the oil chemistry, and in most cases really upsets
the additive balance. If you want moly, why not but Schaeffer's or Maxlife and get a balanced
additive package specially formulated for the base oil?

I do know the old formula STP was nothing more than polyisobutylene, a viscosity thickener,
(used to work at Standard Oil and we sold it to STP).
Unethical car dealers would add this stuff to a SMOKER in order to sell a lemon with bad rings
or bad valve guides.
 
quote:

Hopefully the story (is it posted here?-- it was on Edmunds today) about delaying GF4 will hold true and we'll continue to have the excellent performing, cheap GF3 oils for a couple of years yet.

CS, Your guy that is posting those stories on the edmunds board is copying it directly from my page and reposting on there
smile.gif
. Kinda thought that was funny. The way I know is I put the author on the bottom when I get it where as it usually is the second line when I get it
grin.gif
.
 
Unfortunately it is full price. I can't find any mention of this product on the STP site. I think it is old stock they haven't sold.
 
There was a lot of discussion of this product over on Edmunds. I think it was in regard to the new Ilsac GF4 standards. The thinking was that manufacturers were about to screw up the oil in order to save cat. converter claims, and that this stuff might goose up the oil enough to get by. Don't see any reason to use it with SL/GF3 oils.

Hopefully the story (is it posted here?-- it was on Edmunds today) about delaying GF4 will hold true and we'll continue to have the excellent performing, cheap GF3 oils for a couple of years yet.

I have thrown STP into high mileage cars. My daughter had a 90 Geo Prizm that she abused to the point where the oil light was coming on at idle (175K). A can of the stuff was enough to keep that from happening and also quieted things down a bit. If it gets her another year or so out of the engine, no big deal. If the engine craps she can find another in a junk yard for a few hundred bucks.

As far as the oil extender, I think the high price points, along with mis-labeling recall were enough for them to pull it off the market. People are used to paying $1.50 for something with STP on it, not $6.
 
quote:

Originally posted by csandste:


Hopefully the story (is it posted here?-- it was on Edmunds today) about delaying GF4 will hold true and we'll continue to have the excellent performing, cheap GF3 oils for a couple of years yet.


Yep, Bob posted an article about the GF4 delay in the interesting articles section here.
 
As far as the Advance Auto having it. There were some reports on Edmunds about a bunch of it being dumped in dollar stores. If I could pay twenty cents on the dollar for it, I might pick up a few cans, just in case. If it's available at full price, maybe STP's reintroducing it. Either that or Advance Auto doesn't move stock that's been sitting on the shelf for a year.
 
I was at advance auto parts and they had both STP and CD2 on the half price shelf. I compared labels, and the CD2 had a better promised to restore the additives, and also a filtration improver of some kind.

I bought one CD2 for my beater 88 Accord, which I started using 0W30 synthetic, with a plan to only change oil and filter once a year. Since this year was especially cold, this car got heavier use than expected... I'll probably put 7500 miles on it in one year.

The reason I went ahead and bought the oil extender is that I have weak drain threading on the oil because of the previous owner. I have an oversized bolt, but I want to keep the changes to a minimum just incase.

P.S. has anyone done an oil analysis after using oil extender product?
 
quote:

Originally posted by S2000driver:

The reason I went ahead and bought the oil extender is that I have weak drain threading on the oil because of the previous owner. I have an oversized bolt, but I want to keep the changes to a minimum just incase.


Why don't you just replace the drain plug with a Fumoto drain valve or Fram sure Drain? Then the main part of the plug stays in there all the time.
 
Well I just ordered Fumoto drain valves for my S2000 and CR-V. For the S2000, this means I can now change my oil without lifting the car (can reach down beside the engine and open it!)

But since I can't find anything oversized, I'm wondering if there is a way I can put this on my old Accord (with the stripped oil pan threads.)

Right now the threads of a new standard (not oversized) bolt is barely holding, but has been doing fine (no leaks) since I used liquid gasket on the threads and washer a couple months ago. Actually, the bolt would not hold full torque, you could feel the threads letting go as I tightened.

Let's say I go get a fram suredrain at wal*mart. What can I do to make sure it installs without the threads failing? If I use plumber's teflon tape, will this bridge the gap of the threads enough to prevent leaks and to give the threads a better chance of grabbing?
dunno.gif


I guess I've got one shot to install it, then I have to resort to using that oversized drain bolt that's sitting in my glove box.

[ March 02, 2003, 09:43 AM: Message edited by: S2000driver ]
 
S2000,

I think I'd use Permatex #2 (thick, soft) gasket sealer instead of teflon tape. The Permatex will seal better and probably longer. I really don't think teflon tape is the best product for any type of sealing, and it's only mediocre for what it's intended, tapered pipe threads.


Ken
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ken2:
S2000,

I think I'd use Permatex #2 (thick, soft) gasket sealer instead of teflon tape. The Permatex will seal better and probably longer. I really don't think teflon tape is the best product for any type of sealing, and it's only mediocre for what it's intended, tapered pipe threads.


Ken


Maybe what I'll use (again) is Hondabond, something that is used as a liquid gasket sealant for the valve cover gasket corners, and block drain bolt. This stuff holds up to oil and time really well, especially when the surface is oil free. I'll make extra sure to get all the oil dried up at the threads so the sealant can get a good bite and prevent back-out, even if I can't get full torque on the bolt before the threads start feeling they can't go any further without stripping.

The reason I wanted to put something else in there is to aid with getting the right torque before the threads let go. But you're right, going with a material that is made for water threads is questionable when used with oil for an extended period of time.

[ March 03, 2003, 10:10 PM: Message edited by: S2000driver ]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top