Lube Control/Fuel Power???

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Molakule,
Along with segfault's question:
It seems like LC is much more powerful than ARX and N131 if it takes only 10 minutes for an engine flush compared to 500 miles for ARX and 20 to ?? hours for N131. How is this possible if LC is located somewhere in between power wise? Is this really a safe cleaning? How well does it clean compared to the other two?
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LC - 16 oz seems like a healty dose rate if your oil level is high I would drain like amount off for any flush - but if you are, say less the 1/2 your dipstick mark - with any flush/more oil at 16 oz shouldn't cause some emergency overfill situation.

LC - So a new filter is not required for the flush process period?

LC - Maybe I just missed it, but do you drive with this in the crankcase, or just idle?

LC - WITHOUT exposing the chemistry to the world, what principle is it based on? I read it's from the 1950's, but solvent?

FP - please explain the improved combustion effeciency part.

FP - same question, what is the principle, how does it work....I have a desire to know the "nitty gritty"....

Thanks guys - and no I'm not prying/spying - IF it really works - I do need to know how!
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[ November 23, 2002, 08:42 AM: Message edited by: Pablo ]
 
Sorry for the delay. Had to take pictures for a wedding out of town.

"LC - 16 oz seems like a healty dose rate if your oil level is high I would drain like amount off for any flush - but if you are, say less the 1/2 your dipstick mark - with any flush/more oil at 16 oz shouldn't cause some emergency overfill situation."

** 16 oz is 1 pint. Your only leaving it in for a short period (10 min @ idle) to start the cleaning process. This has more to do with treatment concentration and my philosophy of never leaving a flush in the engine for longer than necessary.

LC - So a new filter is not required for the flush process period?

** No. Any sludge becomes suspended in the oil. This is assuming an engine with greater than 30,000 miles.

LC - Maybe I just missed it, but do you drive with this in the crankcase, or just idle?

** Just idle. Never drive with a flush in the oil, no matter what (or whose) flush it may be.
 
"LC - WITHOUT exposing the chemistry to the world, what principle is it based on? I read it's from the 1950's, but solvent?"

** It is based upon a three level cleaning system and a lubricant.

"FP - please explain the improved combustion effeciency part."

When burned in the combustion chamber, the chemicals soften and loosen the carbon
so that very small particles are relased and swept out through the exhaust system.
Top-End lubrication is also provided to the valve seats to prevent valve seat recession while the cleaning process is occurring. What you want in a top-end cleaner is a carbon softener (depolymerizer) that will soften the carbon and not allow it to get caught between the exhaust valve and seat.
 
Vetteman,

Glad to see theory meets practice. As I stated before, we did use it in a John Deere with no signs of water damage or water related problems, but it was a very informal test and in warm weather, although we did have some very humid days during this period.

Neighbor is using it in his Combine to harvest late Milo. This area seems to be mostly John Deere country.
 
MolaKule,

I used the FP in my 95 Diesel this week-end. I had a new water/separator filter etc. Observations so far after 2 cold morning and about 10 warm starts and 147 miles.

1. No black smoke on start-up in the mornings, I did prior to the use of FP.

2. Injectors were quieter and smoother on idle warm-up in the morning. (Subjective, but my own observation living with this 8 thousand pound+ beast for 7 Years)

3. A very small amount of water was in the separator, so the FP works as you have
stated which is great.

4. Just added FP to my 2000 Mazda today during a fill-up. Only 10 miles since.

[ November 25, 2002, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
 
The FP reminds me of Torpedo fuel if that helps you, Vetteman. Remembering I am no fuels guru.
 
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