Berryman's B-12?

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Doesnt't this stuff have methanol in it?
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Thanks, but I'll use something else like one of the Neutra formulas, Red Line SI-1 or Chevron Techron.

--- Bror Jace
 
Originally posted by dragboat: I have used it four times in the crankcase of our 92 Cavalier motor to remove Pennzoil varnish without any seal problems whatsoever.

Most interesed in the comment about the Pennzoil varnish. This has been floating around for a while that Pennzoil will leave a tint on the motor is this the case with the SL Pennzoil too?
 
Chris I have seen other oils varnish before not just Pennzoil.

I remember a post awhile back about Amsoil doing something similar in a motor that the 131 Nuetra removed,,will look for it and paste it here
 
yeah dragboat.....Castrol GTX was absolutely the worst when it came out in the mid 80s....remember it was kind of pink colored like ATF ......It sludged up a couple of my dads engines like nothing else
 
Same sludge from Quacker State I removed with a screwdriver back then. All these old stories probably have no relevance now but it is hard to use an oil that caused problems in the past.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mkosem:
can anyone else comment on B-12 in the crankcase?

I've used B12 in the crankcase in the past without any problems. Usually on the first oil change after I buy the car (I always buy used).

I've also used it in the gas tank with great results.
 
how often do you use it in the gas tank? Do you ever do followups in the crankcase? What kind of treatment regimine do you use in the crankcase. B-12 is **** potent.

--Matt
 
This is a bit preliminary but we may have some success with the B-12 in slowing our Saturn from drinking oil. Only 400 miles so far but it has only consumed 1/10 of a quart so far with Supertech 10-30 dino oil. This car has been a steady 1 quart per 1000 miles drinker for 20,000 miles. My wife does not put many miles on this car, 5 miles to work, so I will post back later if there is any interest. By the way thanks Dragboat for the tip to use this stuff.
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quote:

Originally posted by mkosem:
how often do you use it in the gas tank? Do you ever do followups in the crankcase? What kind of treatment regimine do you use in the crankcase. B-12 is **** potent.

--Matt


There are detailed instructions on the can. I seem to remember it is half the can for the crankcase. I haven't tried it because I fear the ramifications of "fragging the oil" even for a few minutes. Maybe an even lower treat rate would be gentle enough.
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hmm, I didn't remember seeing anything about that on the bottle. it'd be hard to dump 1/2 a bottle from an alu conainer.

--Matt
 
I always dump the whole bottle in. I use it occationally when my Passat 1.8T starts getting bad fuel mileage and/or starts running a little rough.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mkosem:
hmm, I didn't remember seeing anything about that on the bottle. it'd be hard to dump 1/2 a bottle from an alu conainer.

--Matt


Found the 16 oz. can of Berryman B-12 Chemtool in my garage--

CRANKCASE: Use 8 ounces of Chemtool for 6 or 8 cylinder gasoline engines. On 4 cylinder gasoline engines use 6 ounces. With engine stopped and preferably cool, add B-12 Chemtool to engine oil. Start engine and let idle for 3 to 5 minutes. Drain oil immediately. Change oil filter and add recommended oil. B-12 Chemtool vaporizes immediately to clean all internal engine surfaces, dissolving gum and varnish.

My opinion--after reading how well small amounts of strong solvents in the crankcase can clean (lube control comes to mind) I would use caution.
 
I'd imagine it'd get everything clean, but will it put extreme wear on the engine for those 3-5mins of idling?

--Matt
 
since you're asking here is my opinion.

I would use Auto-Rx or schaeffer neutra first. Next I might try the Lube control (read the Dyson lab report on it). My last resort would be to use B-12 or any other solvent as directed. I've never seen any reports on those products.

Schaeffer neutra:

#292 NEUTRA PURGING FLUID

Neutra Purging Fluid is a highly concentrated ashless fluid that is specially formulated to gently clean and purge equipment of varnish and carbon deposits.

Over time and use varnish and carbon deposits can build up on the interior surfaces of equipment. This buildup is formed when the lubricating fluid being used deteriorates from constant exposure to air, moisture, high temperatures and contamination. As the lubricant breakdown progresses varnish and carbon deposits can begin to rapidly build up. This buildup not only can reduce the operating efficiency of the unit, but also can restrict oil circulation, raise operating temperatures and cause abrasive wear to take place.

With the use of Neutra Purging Fluid these carbon and varnish deposits can be dispersed while the equipment continues to operate. Neutra Purging Fluid dissolves and suspends these deposits until they are removed with the next oil change.

Directions For Use:

Gas and Diesel Engines, Fluid Powered Transmissions, Differentials

Use one ounce of Neutra Purging Fluid to every quart of engine oil. Run the engine for 500 miles or for 4 to 12 hours prior to changeout.

Gear Boxes, Hydraulic Systems, Air Compressors

During the last 25-50 hours prior to changeout use the following ratios of Neutra Purging Fluid:

1 ounce to every 1 quart of lubricant

4 ounces to every 1 gallon of lubricant

1 gallon to every 32 gallons of lubricant



[ December 21, 2002, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: jjbula ]
 
I've run auto-rx already. I'd like to try another thing that might work to slow down the oil consmption more. The MMO Piston soak did very little, auto-rx made some difference, but not a lot. I'm just looking for something else to try.
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--Matt
 
You should try another application of Auto-Rx by your post you "saw" some difference. Go to web site and find engine like your's and read what particular application is suggested. Auto-Rx is
now in Goverment Vehicles & Small Diesel Engines.
That's a demanding customer.
 
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