cold air intake suck some water today .oil change?

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Originally Posted By: dailydriver
What is the (water injested quantity) 'tipping point' for hydrolock??


The point where the engine can't evaporate it as fast as it comes in.
 
That's a brilliantly designed air intake!

Do they make one for a Mustang that doesn't try to imitate a U boat snorkel?
 
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-Put a light source inside your air filter and check it thoroughly for any new holes/gaps. If that's an oiled cotton type air filter, do the clean & oil routine.

-Spray the MAF sensor out with MAF cleaner. Water droplets hitting it can make your engine bog or stall, but as water leaves it can leave residues/road grime behind. That residue can bias the sensor and throw you out of tune just a hair in a direction that causes an imperceptible loss of throttle response. If you use a CAI I expect you can appreciate how little things that are hardly noticable can add up.

-You don't want anything laying in your throttle body that can cause corrosion. Clean it out maybe with throttle body cleaner or however you would normally clean it, then spray it through with WD40. Wipe the WD40 off with a small scrap of cloth. Don't us paper. A small scrap of cloth will leave a desirable residue.

-Examine the ducting in place. If it looks dirty at all, clean it out thoroughly.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
What is the (water injested quantity) 'tipping point' for hydrolock??


If the amount of water in one cylinder is equal to or greater than the combustion chamber volume you have a full hydrolock condition. If, for example you have a combustion chamber volume of 60 ccs, then with a V8 you're feeding four cylinders per revolution and need to feed 4 * 60 ccs or 240cc or 8 fl.oz. per crankshaft revolution to guarantee a hydrolock. At 2,000 RPM that means a volume of 480,000 cc/minute or 480L/mi. That's a rate of about 17 cfm. Considering that most common run-of-the-mill aftermarket 4bbl carburetors are rated in the neighborhood of 600cfm to 1400 of air (which is much less viscous of course) that's really not a lot of water needed.

However, to stall or damage an engine it isn't necessary to have that much water. At half that volume (30 cc or about 1 ounce) effectively doubles your compression ratio. This means an engine with a compression ratio of 11 to 1 would act like it had a compression ratio of 22 to 1, which is crazy high. This makes for huge pressures which can stall the engine or cause physical damage without reaching a true hydrolock. Once the engine is stalled and the starter can't overcome the high compression it seems like it's hydrolocked. Once physical damage occurs it probably doesn't much matter if it's fully locked or not. The tipping point for damage depends on the strength of the engine. If you have spark plugs that turn brown where the porcelain meets the metal part, you may be lucky enough that it will act as a fuse. Yay Bosch!

I think that's how it works anyway. Never really thought about it before. If someone who does engine work is reading, please correct the bits that I got wrong. Also, any corrections to math or more realistic chamber sized would be welcome.
 
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I would add if that is an oiled air filter don't over oil it. It will foul your MAF. When I clean mine I do it at the end of the day and let it set on my work bench and the excess oil drains off overnight. I have seen guys soak the filter with oil and wonder why the car runs like crud. Then they end up cleaning the MAF every other day for a week.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
What is the (water injested quantity) 'tipping point' for hydrolock??


If the amount of water in one cylinder is equal to or greater than the combustion chamber volume you have a full hydrolock condition. If, for example you have a combustion chamber volume of 60 ccs, then with a V8 you're feeding four cylinders per revolution and need to feed 4 * 60 ccs or 240cc or 8 fl.oz. per crankshaft revolution to guarantee a hydrolock. At 2,000 RPM that means a volume of 480,000 cc/minute or 480L/mi. That's a rate of about 17 cfm. Considering that most common run-of-the-mill aftermarket 4bbl carburetors are rated in the neighborhood of 600cfm to 1400 of air (which is much less viscous of course) that's really not a lot of water needed.

However, to stall or damage an engine it isn't necessary to have that much water. At half that volume (30 cc or about 1 ounce) effectively doubles your compression ratio. This means an engine with a compression ratio of 11 to 1 would act like it had a compression ratio of 22 to 1, which is crazy high. This makes for huge pressures which can stall the engine or cause physical damage without reaching a true hydrolock. Once the engine is stalled and the starter can't overcome the high compression it seems like it's hydrolocked. Once physical damage occurs it probably doesn't much matter if it's fully locked or not. The tipping point for damage depends on the strength of the engine. If you have spark plugs that turn brown where the porcelain meets the metal part, you may be lucky enough that it will act as a fuse. Yay Bosch!

I think that's how it works anyway. Never really thought about it before. If someone who does engine work is reading, please correct the bits that I got wrong. Also, any corrections to math or more realistic chamber sized would be welcome.


Well thought-out answer
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I would add that steam of course can be compressed, and as the water is ingested, the heat of the engine will in fact turn some (or most, or even all, depending on the volume) of it to steam. This is how people can dump a water bottle down a running engine and not hydro-lock it, even though the volume they are supplying the engine with exceeds what the capacity of the engine SHOULD be based on what you've described above.
 
guys, thanks for all rely, today is sunny and I take the car out for long highway drive, no problem

and I dont want make another thread, but the car have nasty squeak out coming out front or rear I cant tell different, it noteable when accelation from stop sign. but after drive for 20 min, the squeak go away,

it squeak a little every morning, until drive 2-3 miles. but it louder after I got caught on that heavy rains. but it go away after few miles driving. any idea ?
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
guys, thanks for all rely, today is sunny and I take the car out for long highway drive, no problem

and I dont want make another thread, but the car have nasty squeak out coming out front or rear I cant tell different, it noteable when accelation from stop sign. but after drive for 20 min, the squeak go away,

it squeak a little every morning, until drive 2-3 miles. but it louder after I got caught on that heavy rains. but it go away after few miles driving. any idea ?

It's generally good practice to make a new thread for a new topic, unless you don't want many replies.
 
I used a windshield washer pump to inject 2 quarts of water into my running engine. I got some misfire codes and stumbling, but no hydrolock. There was maybe a tablespoon of water in the oil. Most was on the rocker cover. None on the dip stick. I drove the car for 20 minutes, than changed the oil.

I think shutting off your engine after you got home was not a good idea. You should have let the motor run to burn off any water in the oil.

Unless it is something expensive like Red-Line,I would change the oil anyways.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
What is the (water injested quantity) 'tipping point' for hydrolock??



Whatever your combustion chamber volume is @ TDC is your limit.
 
Originally Posted By: Loobed
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
What is the (water injested quantity) 'tipping point' for hydrolock??



Whatever your combustion chamber volume is @ TDC is your limit.


And that should be computable based on the engine size, cylinder count and compression ratio
 
I ran an iceman intake on my old Neon R/T which almost scraped the road. It definitely was wet a lot of the time, never skipped a beat in 80k miles. I once ran into a flooded stretch of road at HIGH speed, came to a complete stop in about a foot of water, idled out of it without a hitch.

A little water won't hurt you at all. We used to inject water directly into the carb in my old street setups, sometimes a surprisingly large amount. As long as it's not all at once it doesn't hurt a thing.
 
You have to be careful, a lot of German cars have nice low intakes right up front and I have seen a number hydro locked after they tried to become U boats in a foot of water.

A RE agent I know hydro locked her S500 that way...that was a $20k bill. Also saw an SL550 that tried to U boat under a bridge in 10in of water...

Water is OK until you suck in just a little to much, than its not.
 
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Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
That's a brilliantly designed air intake!

Do they make one for a Mustang that doesn't try to imitate a U boat snorkel?


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