I'm planning to take my wife's minivan to the dealer for their Motorvac Fuel System Cleaning process. Is anybody familiar with Motorvac process and products? Is it worth it?
Motorvac site
Thanks
Motorvac site
Thanks
Motorvac carbon deposit removal
- Thread starter GimmeTorq
- Start date
- Status
My son-in-law turned me on to a product called SeaFoam. I've used it on several small engines with good results. The small engines were suffering from hard starting due to what I think was crud in the carb. or carbon build up in the intake area. I'm not an auto mechanic, used to be a Machinest Mate in the NAVY but there are no steam powered cars. Cured my one lung engine hard start difficulties by pouring right down the carbs throat till it stalled.
I plan on using it in my wifes Saturn at the next oil change. A tune up did not cure her slipping MPG.
I'll run Neutra in the oil and then just before the oil change I'll take off a vaccum connection and draw the SeaFoam into the combustion chamber till the engine starts a rough idle or stalls. Wait 15 minutes or so and restart.
If it is like my small engines everyone will think your fogging your yard for West Nile carring bugs.
Then an oil change with Schaeffer's 15w-40 and a PureOne filter.
Might be worth a try before you laydown some long green.
I plan on using it in my wifes Saturn at the next oil change. A tune up did not cure her slipping MPG.
I'll run Neutra in the oil and then just before the oil change I'll take off a vaccum connection and draw the SeaFoam into the combustion chamber till the engine starts a rough idle or stalls. Wait 15 minutes or so and restart.
If it is like my small engines everyone will think your fogging your yard for West Nile carring bugs.
Then an oil change with Schaeffer's 15w-40 and a PureOne filter.
Might be worth a try before you laydown some long green.
I do the same thing with the neutra 131. I will "fog" a motor if it's really bad by either pouring small amounts of the 131 down the carb or using a hose to suck it in on a fuel injection system. BE CAREFUL!!! If you pour too much of any liquid in a running motor, you CAN HYDRO LOCK your engine. when this happens, you're looking at a new engine, so make sure you don't just bust open with too much at one time and you'll do fine. This is extremely important with a fuel injection system where you are using a vaccum line to suck in the fluid. disconnect the line from the vaccum source, put a line in the fluid,131 in my case, and hold the line close to the vaccum source and mist in the fluid with air so not to cause this hydro lock.
Well, I have tried lots of things already... Syntec Fuel System Cleaner, Techron, Redline SL-1, BG44K... It seems the problem is the intake manifold. I'm not sure what caused it, but the intake manifold used to be covered with a black goo inside, probably by-product of the combustion or oil evaporation. The minivan, a Villager with the 3.0L "VG" engine, started having start-up problems. After reading some internet groups, it seems this is very common in this Nissan engine, even in some of their 4-bangers. So I attempted cleaning it myself using Valvoline Synpower Throttle Body cleaner. It did a pretty good job and the staring problems are gone, but there is still a engine miss at idle which I haven't been able to get rid of in addition to a "looping" idle when cold. I'm hoping this professional approach can reach those places in the intake manifold I couldn't reach with the TB cleaner. I'm planning to also re-adjust the engine idle and the ignition timing, which are the other two things I haven't tried yet. Thanks for the suggestion anyways.
I've only heard good things about the Motorvac cleaning process. It works better than gas additives because the concentrated cleaners are pumped into the fuel line and injectors. Because you need some special equipment, it's done by shops and not by garage mechanics.
Best carbon removing fluid you can have is H2O also known as a water (steam ) ,I'm using this method for about 10 years now ( since we were using it in race engine ) very effective and" fairly " cheap ,( I can run my turbo volvo at 15psi on 89octane gas with out any pinging or knocking this is the side effect )
. Eric
Patman
Staff member
I too have heard a lot of good things about Seafoam. All the LT1 f-body owners on the net swear by this stuff.
Bob you may have just saved a Saturn's life. Or maybe mine if my wife knew I killed her car. My plan was to just let the cleaner flow unfettered through the vaccumn line.
Is shooting an spray down past the throttle body a better idea. I worry about a fire doing it that way.
Is shooting an spray down past the throttle body a better idea. I worry about a fire doing it that way.
Neilw,
I just used the method Bob described above and it worked very well. I used to spray directly into the TB, but with a pump sprayer the cleaner tended to get all over the place. The way I actually did this was to use a thin piece of tubing (1/8" I.D.) about 9' long. I put the bottle of cleaner on the floor with the tube in it, then put the other end of the tube into a vacuum port on the side of the TB. Because of the tubes length and narrowness the liquid couldn't get sucked up too fast and because the narrow tube was in a larger diameter vacuum port, it automatically sucked in a lot of air too. I was able to just stand there and let it aspirate the cleaner into the TB all by itself.
Another method I've heard, for use with aerosol can sprays, is to loosen the duct connection at the back end of the MAF sensor and insert the tube for the aerosol spray. This has the advantage of spreading the cleaner more equally among the cylinders.
Is this the SeaFoam product you guys have used?
SeaFoam Deep Creep
For less than $7.00 it may be worth a try...
Thanks
SeaFoam Deep Creep
For less than $7.00 it may be worth a try...
Thanks
GimmiTorq
That's the stuff. Only I use the non spray style can. The theory is you get more product.
NeilW
That's the stuff. Only I use the non spray style can. The theory is you get more product.
NeilW
No, The stuff I used came in a glass bottle and was tinted light blue-green in color. It wasn't a lubricant like the stuff in your link.
- Status
