Toyota time belt change 90k, change tensioner too?

[edwardh1]

when I had a camry, at 90k I got a new belt, dealer said change water pump too, and I did.
I now have a v6 2004 highlander and my private garage is saying the same thing (I am near 90k, I may wait til 9k as I have been told v6 engine is non interference)- private garage says do the belt, the water pump and also the chain tensioner -do the tensioners fail much? expensive to change those too? they are sending me an estimate

 

[rcy]

The 3MZ-FE in the 2004 Highlander is most definitely an interference engine.

When I had the timing belt done in my RX400h (same 3MZ-FE as Highlander, just tuned a bit differently) at 144 000 KM, the dealer inspected the water pump and said it was good, however, they did inspect and change the tensioner.

 

[Quest]

I don't inspect a used belt tensioner but replace them with factory OEM ones during the timing belt change. Also replace water pump (if it's timing belt driven).

Q.

 

[edwardh1]

Originally Posted By: rcy
The 3MZ-FE in the 2004 Highlander is most definitely an interference engine.

When I had the timing belt done in my RX400h (same 3MZ-FE as Highlander, just tuned a bit differently) at 144 000 KM, the dealer inspected the water pump and said it was good, however, they did inspect and change the tensioner.


I did notthink the gates manual showed the 2004 v6 as interference, (no comment to that effect in the table they have-
how do you determine if it is or os not?
Thanks

 

[fsdork]

Balance the cost of the part vs. the labour to replace it. Usually the labour on a timing belt, tensioner, and water pump is quite a bit more than the parts, depending on the application of course.

Also, I think someone recently posted about a tensioner failing and eating a timing belt, not long after just the belt was replaced.

 

[mpvue]

Originally Posted By: fsdork

Also, I think someone recently posted about a tensioner failing and eating a timing belt, not long after just the belt was replaced.

that' usually what happens, the tensioner or the water pump fails, damaging the belt. I had this happen on a '96 Mazda MPV I had; previous owner had receipts that the belt was changed alike less than 20K earlier. tension pulley failed, shredded the belt.
belts don't fail by themselves.

 

[Astro14]

Who cares if it's interference? OK, OK, it matters in terms of cost of a potential failure, but the point is this: failed tensioner = broken belt = stranded by the side of the road.

There are times and places where that stranding is more of a concern than the cost of a new engine...

Tensioners wear out.

Change the tensioner.

 

[Kestas]

The belt manufacturers like to point out that it's not the belt per se that fails, but usually it's the tensioner or idler that fails resulting in a shredded belt.

 

[stephen9666]

Another vote for changing everything while you're in there.

When I did the TB on my girlfriend's VW Beetle, I went with an OE belt and tensioner and a quality aftermarket water pump.

Most of the time it's just not worth it to risk the tensioner or water pump failing.

 

[mechtech2]

Good news! You never need to replace the chain tensioner.

But the belt tensioner SHOULD be replaced with the new timing belt.
Bad tensioners cause the belt to ride over the edge of the gears, or can stick and wreck the belt.
I strongly recommend doing any idler pulleys and tensioner with the belt.

 

[LeakySeals]

I know someone that replaced the waterpump on a 03 Camry on the mechanic's recommendation. The replacement pump had catastrophic failure. Make sure you know hes not cheaping out with a China part to profit off you.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I know someone that replaced the waterpump on a 03 Camry on the mechanic's recommendation. The replacement pump had catastrophic failure. Make sure you know hes not cheaping out with a China part to profit off you.


I would take an original Aisin WP with 90k miles on it over any aftermarket pump out there.

 

[rpn453]

Originally Posted By: edwardh1
I did notthink the gates manual showed the 2004 v6 as interference, (no comment to that effect in the table they have-
how do you determine if it is or os not?
Thanks


I've noticed inaccuracies in that guide regarding which engines are an interference design, so don't take it as the final word.

 

[Quest]

For Toy engines: always go with Aisin pump.

Cheepening on timing components (t-belts, idler tensioner bearings, water pumps, etc.) will save you pennies but may costs you big bucks down the road (if any of these inferior components fail in a catastrophic manner).

as the motto goes: pay now or pay (big) later.

Q.

 

[edwardh1]

quotes I got not from a dealer , but a Toyota specializing repair shop
$650 for Oem parts and labor , time belt, 2 other belts, water pump and Toy coolant change out.

ADD idler pulley, idler bearing and tensioner and more labor, price then went to $1050

 

[kschachn]

Whoa, is that what things cost now? You can get an Aisin timing belt kit on Rock Auto (including the hydraulic tensioner) for $187. It is all OEM parts including a Mitsuboshi timing belt.

That's a lot of money for labor.

Originally Posted By: edwardh1
quotes I got not from a dealer , but a Toyota specializing repair shop
$650 for Oem parts and labor , time belt, 2 other belts, water pump and Toy coolant change out.

ADD idler pulley, idler bearing and tensioner and more labor, price then went to $1050

 

[PandaBear]

Personally I always replace it because they usually don't last for more than 2 belt life. Then again, I always just use Gate or AC Delco rather than OEM.

 

[edwardh1]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Whoa, is that what things cost now? You can get an Aisin timing belt kit on Rock Auto (including the hydraulic tensioner) for $187. It is all OEM parts including a Mitsuboshi timing belt.

That's a lot of money for labor.

Originally Posted By: edwardh1
quotes I got not from a dealer , but a Toyota specializing repair shop
$650 for Oem parts and labor , time belt, 2 other belts, water pump and Toy coolant change out.

ADD idler pulley, idler bearing and tensioner and more labor, price then went to $1050

==================
labor above was was $360 w/o tensioner, and $450 with doing the tensioner.
I do not know what dealers charge, I think the dealers here do NOT push doing the tensioner.

 

[kschachn]

Personally I would replace both the tensioner pulley and the idler. I wouldn't bother replacing the hydraulic tensioner as I have never seen one that is leaking.

On my 1MZ-FE I did not replace the tensioner and idler pulley but they both started to die off about halfway to the next timing belt change. It was making a knocking sound at a specific RPM. So, I ended up doing the belt and tensioners early for the second round.

I replaced the water pump too but it looked very good. I do use only Toyota red, replaced every 30-40K so perhaps that had something to do with it. OTOH since you are in there it makes little sense not to replace it (with an Aisin pump as was suggested), but it does require you to remove the camshaft pulleys and the metal timing cover which is a bit more work (and drain the coolant).

 

[artificialist]

I say replace all timing related items and your water pump. I have dealt with numerous cars where the job had to be redone 1/2 way through the life of the replacement parts, wasting lots of money.