Valvoline Max Life 5w30 7960 Mercury Sable

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Oil Report for my 1997 Mercury Sable 12 valve.

Blackstone: No serious complaints to file in this sample from your Sable. The longer oil run did result in mildly higher wear, but none of these levels are cautionary. Lead was highlighted last time and it increased slightly, but keep in mind it's only four ppm higher than universal averages and that's not enough to get worked up over. You might want to check the air filtration systems for any leaks or cracks due to silicon. It can show abrasive dirt, but can also be from harmless sealants. The TBN was 1.6 showing a little additive left. Nice report overall at 121,513.

Aluminum 5
Chromium 2
Iron 19
Copper 7
Lead 9
Tin 2
Molybdenum 134
Nickel 1
Manganese 1
Silver 0
Titanium 1
Potassium 2
Boron 8
Silicon 28
Sodium 340
Calcium 2062
Magnesium 12
Phosphorus 664
Zinc 791

SUS Visc 59.7
TBN 1.6

Could a vacuum leak be cause the elevated silicon levels?
 
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Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Step up to QSUD or PP.


Why do you say that? Seems the oil worked fine for the OCI OP chose to go for. Wear metals do not look out of the ordinary except the Si which he said he is going to check into ?
 
Looks decent, I really like Maxlife but I think you pushed it a bit far, I'd drop it back to 6.5 - 7k and see what happens.

Yes I'd be looking for a vacuum leak somewhere too. Get that found you might be fine with this oil at 8k IMO.
 
Looks great. Do not change a thing other than find if you have a vacuum leak somewhere it looks like a 8K OCI is right for you with this engine and PCMO combo.
 
These things do like to develop vacuum leaks. Make sure you don't have a loose clamp on the fresh air hose from the MAF to the TB. Any rubber elbows on vacuuum lines are suspect as they can swell up and leak around the plastic tubing or collapse and grow holes.

If you have use of a scan tool: let it idle for five minutes then note long term fuel trim %. Hold the throttle slightly open for a steady 1800 to 2000 RPM for at least 30 seconds, ideally a minute and write down both short term and long term fuel trim % values. Add the long and short together then compare to the at idle number. If the long term % at idle is 7 or higher than the total trim% at 1800 to 2000 RPM you probably have a vacuum leak. If it's higher by 10 or more you definitely have a vacuum leak. If they're within 5, you're cool.
 
Oh, and obviously check that your air filter fits properly and isn't deformed. The air box itself can also deform over time. Any leaks there will allow unfiltered air without showing up in the fuel trims.
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Step up to QSUD or PP.


Why would you recommend regular synthetic to a high mileage oil user?
 
you can also try a light coat of some kind of grease on the edge of the filter to help it seal.. also get a motorcraft one the rubber is much better than most aftermarket ones.

I had one(forget the brand) and it felt foamy and stuff..

the motorcraft one was amazingly better feel.
 
I didn't intend to go this many miles on the oil. Life started happening and I lost track of mileage. I'm a typical 5-6k guy. I had a vacuum leak diagnosed a while back, just haven't had the money to have it addressed. Transmission is acting weird at times do the vacuum leak is #2 on the list of repairs right now.
 
Well...drain and fill that tranny..what you waiting for..whatever else is getting in the way wont seem important when your walking...
 
How was the car driven? Maxlife seems like fine oil for 5,000 miles and can be pushed a bit more than that if life can get hectic. I'll feel very safe with 5,000 OCI on it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Step up to QSUD or PP.


I'm going to take exception to that. Totally unnecessary; typical "synthetics are always better" mentality. Yes, those fluids listed are excellent products. But they are not warranted for this type of use. The wear in this UOA is very good, overall, and no where near any condemnation limits.


We know that his 8k miles is above average, but I didn't see any indication of what the universal average is based upon, so it's foolish to presume this oil didn't do a good job. I had one of these engines (Vulcan) in my 1997 Taurus; IIRC the UA is around 5.5k miles? If that's true, he's well within normal wear rates, and there is zero cause for concern.

The Si is the issue to track down; no use of a "premium" synthetic is going to stop dirt intrusion. Solve the Si, watch the TBN closely, and 9k miles is probably doable.
 
I switched to Max Life about 13k ago when my rear main seal sprung a leak. Since the switch, I haven't found one drop of oil in the garage. Afraid if I switch oils, the leak may resume. Sticking with what is working
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Step up to QSUD or PP.


Why would you recommend regular synthetic to a high mileage oil user?


I have/had several of these vehicles. I use regular synthetic. Why. Firstly it is $3 - $5 more an oil change. This gives me the
additional cleaning ability and a greater margin of error if I have to leave it in longer than anticipated. PP for example has proven itself. It will keep these engines clean and can run beyond 8,000 miles if needed. $5 well spent.
I recently changed over to QSUD. A full syn that is only $3 more than Maxlife at Walmart. I have confidence that it can run 8,000+ before I get around to changing it.
 
Quote:
The TBN was 1.6 showing a little additive left.


This has always been my issue with Valvoline. Excellent wear protection, but below average Tbn retention. Their market is not extended drains and being they still push 3k mile change intervals or owner's manual recommendations, it's not a surprise.
 
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