Boots might last longer if they are clean and lubed with silicone spray, armor all or 303. What do you think?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Anyone clean or lube CV joint boots?
- Thread starter ledslinger
- Start date
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
original axles/boots on my 01 integra with 130k miles. Friend's 94 integra's axle had 260k on it before the boot tore, however the axles were still fine.
Earlier hondas(late 80's/early 90's) were plagued with weak axles and boots.
silicone spray isn't going to do anything...rain and water will just wash it off.
Earlier hondas(late 80's/early 90's) were plagued with weak axles and boots.
silicone spray isn't going to do anything...rain and water will just wash it off.
Last edited:
ledslinger
Thread starter
My wife's 2001 Accord has original intact boots at 225K miles.
Originally Posted By: user52165
Doubtful. Some boots last longer because they use a better rubber. My 1986 and 1987 Honda Accords - cracked, replaced every 2 or 3 years with new Honda boots. 2001 Hyundai Sonata - original boots, never replaced 130K.
After about 4 years(1992), I replaced my '88 Accords rubber boots with the neoprene or polyeuathane(IDK) boots and they lasted the rest of the cars life(til 2006).
So far, so good w/ the OE on our '01 Lexus, '04 Altima, and '06 Mazda.
Doubtful. Some boots last longer because they use a better rubber. My 1986 and 1987 Honda Accords - cracked, replaced every 2 or 3 years with new Honda boots. 2001 Hyundai Sonata - original boots, never replaced 130K.
After about 4 years(1992), I replaced my '88 Accords rubber boots with the neoprene or polyeuathane(IDK) boots and they lasted the rest of the cars life(til 2006).
So far, so good w/ the OE on our '01 Lexus, '04 Altima, and '06 Mazda.
Just keep them clean.
1980s CV boots really sucked, the only thing that would make them better is a redesigned boot.
The biggest enemy of a well designed CV boot is road salt, keep that in mind.
1980s CV boots really sucked, the only thing that would make them better is a redesigned boot.
The biggest enemy of a well designed CV boot is road salt, keep that in mind.
LOL! Nope, never bother.
All CV boots will sooner or later fail, deterioration to elastomeric materials due to (a )ground ozone; (b ) heat; (c ) hydrocarbon swelling.
You can put anything you want: silicone spray, Armour-all, etc. it will not extend the service life of your CV boots.
Q.
All CV boots will sooner or later fail, deterioration to elastomeric materials due to (a )ground ozone; (b ) heat; (c ) hydrocarbon swelling.
You can put anything you want: silicone spray, Armour-all, etc. it will not extend the service life of your CV boots.
Q.
Originally Posted By: Quest
All CV boots will sooner or later fail, deterioration to elastomeric materials due to (a )ground ozone; (b ) heat; (c ) hydrocarbon swelling.
Boot failure has nothing to do with any of those things.
You know how a paper clip will break if you bend it back-and-forth a few times? That's the same mechanism by which CV boots break. This phenomenon is exacerbated by COLD (not heat!) and driveshaft angles. But this mechanism can be defeated (or at least made to work at a disadvantage) with proper boot-design.
Many newer-design, much-longer-lasting boots are made of different materials than the ones made 20-years-ago. Plus they often have a radius in the bottom of each pleat. This radius is a variant of the sort you would use to eliminate the stress-riser at the end of a cut into a given material. You can tell this kind because they actually form a kind of pit at the bottom of the pleat. Plus this type of boot has many more pleats than the old-style.
All CV boots will sooner or later fail, deterioration to elastomeric materials due to (a )ground ozone; (b ) heat; (c ) hydrocarbon swelling.
Boot failure has nothing to do with any of those things.
You know how a paper clip will break if you bend it back-and-forth a few times? That's the same mechanism by which CV boots break. This phenomenon is exacerbated by COLD (not heat!) and driveshaft angles. But this mechanism can be defeated (or at least made to work at a disadvantage) with proper boot-design.
Many newer-design, much-longer-lasting boots are made of different materials than the ones made 20-years-ago. Plus they often have a radius in the bottom of each pleat. This radius is a variant of the sort you would use to eliminate the stress-riser at the end of a cut into a given material. You can tell this kind because they actually form a kind of pit at the bottom of the pleat. Plus this type of boot has many more pleats than the old-style.
do they ever just fall apart due to boot failure and lack of grease? i.e. does the joint ever have a catastrophic failure or just create enough noise and clicking to force owner to replace?
Originally Posted By: Spector
do they ever just fall apart due to boot failure and lack of grease? i.e. does the joint ever have a catastrophic failure or just create enough noise and clicking to force owner to replace?
I suppose some brands have CV joints that can fall apart, but I've never personally seen it or ever actually heard of that happening. Normally the joint just gets really, really noisy, sometimes to the point where you can feel the clunking in the steering wheel.
All you need to do is perform a simple check once a year, and get the boots replaced BEFORE they split. The check doesn't even require that you get under the car or even use any tools.
do they ever just fall apart due to boot failure and lack of grease? i.e. does the joint ever have a catastrophic failure or just create enough noise and clicking to force owner to replace?
I suppose some brands have CV joints that can fall apart, but I've never personally seen it or ever actually heard of that happening. Normally the joint just gets really, really noisy, sometimes to the point where you can feel the clunking in the steering wheel.
All you need to do is perform a simple check once a year, and get the boots replaced BEFORE they split. The check doesn't even require that you get under the car or even use any tools.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Boot failure has nothing to do with any of those things.
You know how a paper clip will break if you bend it back-and-forth a few times? That's the same mechanism by which CV boots break. This phenomenon is exacerbated by COLD (not heat!) and driveshaft angles. But this mechanism can be defeated (or at least made to work at a disadvantage) with proper boot-design.
Many newer-design, much-longer-lasting boots are made of different materials than the ones made 20-years-ago. Plus they often have a radius in the bottom of each pleat. This radius is a variant of the sort you would use to eliminate the stress-riser at the end of a cut into a given material. You can tell this kind because they actually form a kind of pit at the bottom of the pleat. Plus this type of boot has many more pleats than the old-style.
Beg to differ though: we are talking non-metallic polymer that is created for just that task (of bending in extreme angle, repeatedly over a very long period of time, exposure to hydrocarbon based lubricants, hold up to extreme heat and cold, etc.).
Similar to piece of rubber band: these polymers will break down due to the aforementioned conditions (heat, chemical attacks, UV, ozones, etc.).
Your comparison with a paper clip (metal, not polymer-plastic) is not what I would expect in this case for metal will exhibit fatique if you bend it repeatedly.
Q.
Boot failure has nothing to do with any of those things.
You know how a paper clip will break if you bend it back-and-forth a few times? That's the same mechanism by which CV boots break. This phenomenon is exacerbated by COLD (not heat!) and driveshaft angles. But this mechanism can be defeated (or at least made to work at a disadvantage) with proper boot-design.
Many newer-design, much-longer-lasting boots are made of different materials than the ones made 20-years-ago. Plus they often have a radius in the bottom of each pleat. This radius is a variant of the sort you would use to eliminate the stress-riser at the end of a cut into a given material. You can tell this kind because they actually form a kind of pit at the bottom of the pleat. Plus this type of boot has many more pleats than the old-style.
Beg to differ though: we are talking non-metallic polymer that is created for just that task (of bending in extreme angle, repeatedly over a very long period of time, exposure to hydrocarbon based lubricants, hold up to extreme heat and cold, etc.).
Similar to piece of rubber band: these polymers will break down due to the aforementioned conditions (heat, chemical attacks, UV, ozones, etc.).
Your comparison with a paper clip (metal, not polymer-plastic) is not what I would expect in this case for metal will exhibit fatique if you bend it repeatedly.
Q.
I don't do any maintenance on the boots, but I do check them.
I haven't had to replace any yet, but if they need it I won't hesitate to pull the axle, replace the boot and repack with high quality grease.
I think when the boot cracks, time is of the essence. If you wait, sand and junk will get in there and ruin the joint.
I haven't had to replace any yet, but if they need it I won't hesitate to pull the axle, replace the boot and repack with high quality grease.
I think when the boot cracks, time is of the essence. If you wait, sand and junk will get in there and ruin the joint.
both boots on my inner cv joints tore 100k ago. i just put some grease in them when i lube my ball joints and call it a day. they haven't broke yet and i ain't replacing them now.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 29
- Views
- 1K
- Replies
- 21
- Views
- 913
- Replies
- 22
- Views
- 3K
- Replies
- 11
- Views
- 511
- Replies
- 13
- Views
- 717