2005 Volvo S60 2.5T Oil Recommendation?

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The car calls for a 5W-30 with 10W-30 for higher temperature areas. I'm pretty sure I fall within that spec seeing as I live in Louisiana. I recently did a oil change using the 5W-40 Pennzoil Ultra Euro I had left. I figured I'd be okay with the thicker oil seeing as I live in a high temperature area but as a precaution I bought a bottle of 5W-20 to mix in with the 5 quarts of 5W-40.

Should be good right? Does Volvo have a specific reason they want the 30 weight? Car has about 99,000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly
The car calls for a 5W-30 with 10W-30 for higher temperature areas. I'm pretty sure I fall within that spec seeing as I live in Louisiana. I recently did a oil change using the 5W-40 Pennzoil Ultra Euro I had left. I figured I'd be okay with the thicker oil seeing as I live in a high temperature area but as a precaution I bought a bottle of 5W-20 to mix in with the 5 quarts of 5W-40.

Should be good right? Does Volvo have a specific reason they want the 30 weight? Car has about 99,000 miles.

Do not worry.
I would not mix oils anyway.
If you get GC 0W30 you will be good.
0W30, 5W30 or 10W30 is the same once they reach optimal temperature!
Question is what is inside oils, and considering facts, I think you will be best of with GC 0W30!
 
What are you trying to achieve? The way I look at it a Audi engine is still a engine. If you follow your manufacture's recommendations the engine will serve you until you buy another car. Also you would of been just fine of just using PU 5W-40(that is hard to find around here).
 
It's not an Audi engine though... Its a Volvo.
smile.gif


The PU 5W40 is still in the car. I just changed it on my way here to Arizona as I was due for a oil change. Just to clarify, the 5W20 I put in the car was also PU so I don't see it causing any issues.
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly
It's not an Audi engine though... Its a Volvo.
smile.gif


The PU 5W40 is still in the car. I just changed it on my way here to Arizona as I was due for a oil change. Just to clarify, the 5W20 I put in the car was also PU so I don't see it causing any issues.

It is totally different mix inside those two oils.
Do not get me wrong engine will not suffer, since both oils are high qulity oils.
Get GC and end your search. Volvo engines are very good and they do require good oils, but they genarally are easier on oils then VW engines.
I would put GC for the fact that it is much better then Mobil 1 5W30 or PU 5W30 since it is manufactured for european driving demands and it is PAO oil.
You can go with Mobil 1 0W40, also another great oil, but since Volvo is calling for 5W30 I would go with GC.
 
GC is a bit hard to get where I live. Plus spending the extra money to get it shipped seems like it would be counter productive.

I can see that the mixture would be a little different but I don't see how the formula would be that different.
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly
GC is a bit hard to get where I live. Plus spending the extra money to get it shipped seems like it would be counter productive.

I can see that the mixture would be a little different but I don't see how the formula would be that different.

5W40 is designed for european engines, it is different formula and a lot other stuff.
If there is no GC, and Volvo requires regular 5W30 not calling for ACEA A3/B3 get Mobil 1 5W30.
 
I understand that, but seeing how its the same company, I can't see the formula acting out against each other. We'll see how this goes.
 
I have also a 2005 S60 2,5T
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I have no clue about the temperature where you live so i will not recommend any visocsity other than it should be a X-30 weight but do NOT use anything else than a fullsynthetic oil in that engine.

The PCV system gets messed up very easy in those whiteblock engines and it cost big bucks to fix it since the intake manifold and a lot of other things must be removed to fix it.
Easiest way to avoid such problems is to use a full synthetic oil.
 
Originally Posted By: r34dy2fly
The car calls for a 5W-30 with 10W-30 for higher temperature areas. I'm pretty sure I fall within that spec seeing as I live in Louisiana. I recently did a oil change using the 5W-40 Pennzoil Ultra Euro I had left. I figured I'd be okay with the thicker oil seeing as I live in a high temperature area but as a precaution I bought a bottle of 5W-20 to mix in with the 5 quarts of 5W-40.

Should be good right? Does Volvo have a specific reason they want the 30 weight? Car has about 99,000 miles.


Volvo also specifies a 5W40 if used in Europe...and in the fine print, specifies it in the US for severe service...so a 0W40 would be a great choice, as would the GC 0W30.

If you search the UOAs, you'll find my 2 Volvos, one with M1 0W40 (great UOA) and one with PU 5W40 (also great UOA). So, my advice is to run an A3/B3 quality oil and change it on the Volvo recommended interval of 7,500. In my cars, they could have gone to 9 or slightly more, based on TBN, but I can remember 7,500...that's when the light comes on...

In addition to the UOA, I had a chance to peek inside the crankcase at 143,000 miles when I changed the oil cooler o-rings...clean as a whistle...

Volvos are known for plugging the PCV system (flame trap) with sludge...but my belief is that poor maintenance, i.e. using wrong spec oil, is largely to blame. Take a look at this TBN on Volvos, it lists how to clean a sludged engine...then recommends an A3/B3 vs. the A1/B1 recommended in the manual...

http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/01-23-09/TNN,%20Lubrication%20System%20Contamination%20Cleaning.pdf

If you're using PU 5W40, that's a great choice...based on my UOA and experience...
 
I bought this vehicle used and have a feeling it is indeed sludged up a bit. I have thought about taking it apart for a cleaning but it seemed a bit excessive since I don't know exactly how sludged up it is.

The PCV system seems okay. I checked the dipstick and there is no pressure coming out from it which is the usual symptom for changing it out. I do have the replacement setup already but will wait till I have time to tackle the manifold. I tried it before but that one bolt on the lower left side is just the biggest pain in the [censored] to reach.

I've been reading up on the Kreen system and honestly I haven't found any reason to continue to use it. The inside of the engine is pretty varnished as is the oil filter cup on the bottom. I have used two treatments with what looks like no improvement but then again, they weren't back to back. The engine runs pretty smoothly but I'm still worried.
 
Bought both of mine used as well...without the maintenance history (which I usually insist on...). But I've put 60K on the XC and 50K on the T5 and have had no issues...I've run a good A3 Synthetic since I got them...so I wouldn't worry if I were you.

and yeah, that PCV is a PITA from what I've read...but I haven't had to do it...and I credit good oil...
 
There are just a few spots that make it completely a PITA. The manifold being one and the flame trap being another. Everything else is easy peasy.
 
I presently use GC and when my stash runs out I plan to switch to M1 0w40 in my 01 T-5. Either one would serve you well.
 
My b-i-l just picked up a 2005 S60 non-turbo with 90K.
I have some Mobil 1 TUV 5w40 SL rated that I got on clearance.....Is this a good fit?
 
Turbos don't have the flame trap, do they? On my older turbo the only part of the PCV system that plugged was where a small tube entered the turbo intake between the engine and the firewall. I removed the tube, reamed the tube stub, and it was good to go.

5W-40 or 0W-40 will extend the life of the engine or maybe just the turbo. The 30 wt choices might be for EPA fuel consumption calculations. I just sold the Volvo turbo with 202,000 miles, and the engine and turbo were still in great shape after running the 5W-40 for most of those miles.
 
I run Redline 5W-30 in my 2007 Volvo V70 2.4L (non-turbo). Change at 5,000 - 6,000 miles depending on percent of highway miles. Use Volvo OEM (Mahle) or Mann filter. I'm very pleased with the internal cleanliness, lack of oil consumption and increase in mileage. I purchase Redline Oil through Carquest at about $8.50/quart.

Sam Julier, Hamden CT
 
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