Hello Im brand new to the forum and have a few question about an oil that i have been looking at. I have a link to their producst here: Quantum Blue They Forumlate an oil for you specifically so i know we could never get consistent VOA's because everyones batch would be different. just wondering if anyone has tried it and what their experiences were. Also wondering about their ACES IV fuel catalyst which seems like a great thing. I have read quite alot on a Dodge Charger forum. One guy switched all his lubricants to quantum blue and ACES IV and got 5 mpg better on the exact same road trip. That seems pretty significant to me.
Quantum Blue Lubricants
- Thread starter LoganC
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why does this sound like spam?!
Yes I would steer clear that product. With no spec's provided you have no idea what you're getting.
And no oil on the planet will give 5% better fuel economy, if you're comparing oils with the same operational viscosities.
And no oil on the planet will give 5% better fuel economy, if you're comparing oils with the same operational viscosities.
Originally Posted By: needsducktape
why does this sound like spam?!
+1
because the poster has only 1 post.
From their website: "Because a custom blended lubricant will always outperform store bought!"
That is bull dung because no 2 store bought oils are the same.
why does this sound like spam?!
+1
because the poster has only 1 post.
From their website: "Because a custom blended lubricant will always outperform store bought!"
That is bull dung because no 2 store bought oils are the same.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes I would steer clear that product. With no spec's provided you have no idea what you're getting.
And no oil on the planet will give 5% better fuel economy, if you're comparing oils with the same operational viscosity.
They probably mix store bought oils.
ex: 78% Pennzoil YB 5w-30, 10% Valvoline Maxlife 10w-40, 5% Redline 0w-30, and the rest is Lucas oil stabilizer. All mixed together to give you $13 a quart junk.
P.S. the website looks like it was created by a 10 year old.
Quote:
The most important reality about our formulas are that they contain no outdated technology that uses: Teflon, moly, graphite, liquid metals, extreme pressure additives or chlorinated paraffin (NO HALOGENS!) which are all ineffective by comparison and solid particulate in composition. Nor does QuantumBlue contain any light and cheap petroleum distillates which are added to other products to act as inexpensive, container filling materials.
Yes I would steer clear that product. With no spec's provided you have no idea what you're getting.
And no oil on the planet will give 5% better fuel economy, if you're comparing oils with the same operational viscosity.
They probably mix store bought oils.
ex: 78% Pennzoil YB 5w-30, 10% Valvoline Maxlife 10w-40, 5% Redline 0w-30, and the rest is Lucas oil stabilizer. All mixed together to give you $13 a quart junk.
P.S. the website looks like it was created by a 10 year old.
Quote:
The most important reality about our formulas are that they contain no outdated technology that uses: Teflon, moly, graphite, liquid metals, extreme pressure additives or chlorinated paraffin (NO HALOGENS!) which are all ineffective by comparison and solid particulate in composition. Nor does QuantumBlue contain any light and cheap petroleum distillates which are added to other products to act as inexpensive, container filling materials.
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I didnt want to sound like a was representing this product i had just heard good things about it and wondered what you guys would say. I have a Charger forum link that talks more about it. Im not trying to say its better than other oils im just a kid who wants to find a good oil for an aggressive flat tappet cam with hydraulic lifters. For a 1969 Chevrolet C-10 with a 350 that i built. thanks for the help guys.
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112692
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112692
Brian is the owner there, he makes really cool stuff for the military. Some of it is completely proprietary. I know nothing about his oil except that it holds up very well per analysis. it's definitely not a bad oil, just not well known.
Now the Aces fuel additive I'm a BIG fan of. It practically eliminates KR in my car and yields tons better performance at the strip. But many Hemi owners know these cars pull timing like crazy at the slightest hint of knock, so the proper juice can really help us.
He also makes an excellent coolant.
Now the Aces fuel additive I'm a BIG fan of. It practically eliminates KR in my car and yields tons better performance at the strip. But many Hemi owners know these cars pull timing like crazy at the slightest hint of knock, so the proper juice can really help us.
He also makes an excellent coolant.
OK so if it works lets figure the cost. If I paid $13 a quart for 6 quarts every 5000 miles for 250,000 miles, I would spend $3900 on oil (not including filter). If I continued to use the oil that I get for under $1 a quart, I would spend $300 over the 250,000 mile period. That is a saving of $3600. That is what a new engine would cost. I am sure I will get over 500k miles on my engine unless there is a non oil related mechanical failure.
Like the old saying goes: Only rich man can buy cheap things....because you have to keep buying them.
It may be kind of spendy but it is custom formulated for your engine and your needs. But if there is a regular oil that will do the same for lower cost it makes no sense to spend the money
It may be kind of spendy but it is custom formulated for your engine and your needs. But if there is a regular oil that will do the same for lower cost it makes no sense to spend the money
Originally Posted By: LoganC
Like the old saying goes: Only rich man can buy cheap things....because you have to keep buying them.
It may be kind of spendy but it is custom formulated for your engine and your needs. But if there is a regular oil that will do the same for lower cost it makes no sense to spend the money
The maker of that oil is on Charger forum. A Dodge Charger has a 100,000 mile 5 year warranty. Does Q-Blue satisfy the warranty (API certification etc)? Will they pay if something goes wrong? How do you know it is custom formulated to a specific engine/need? You would have to do a side by side test with another standard oil. Amsoil and Redline at the same price would be better.
Quote:
QB Catalyst uses special proprietary shear, viscosity, and anti-wear technology originally designed for severe military and space applications which reduces wear 90% and friction over 40%
"... special proprietary shear, viscosity, and anti-wear technology." Reduces wear and friction over what; sand, glue, cement? That whole website is hokum.
Quote:
The thinking here was that if Quantum Blue cut wear by means of friction reduction then this might offset any viscous loss due to being a 15-45 blend versus the 0-30 Mobil blend currently in the sump.
Read more: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tec...l#ixzz1rlwbyzKe
They quote an article from GM High Tech Magazine, but that magazine is not from General Motors. It is just like any other magazines. That article was a sales pitch. There is no 15-40 grade.
Quote:
5w20, 5w25, 7.5w23, 8w35, 10w35, 12.5w32,12.5w35, 12.5w37, 12.5w40, 15w45, 16.3w37.5, 17.5w45, 20w35 & 20w50 racing oils:
More nonsense oil grades.
Custom blending? You tell them what you have. They go to the BITIG UOA section and see what works good in a similar setup as you describe. They go to the store and buy that oil. They pour it into a plain Jane gallon jug, print a label, with your name, on a bubble jet printer, and stick it on the jug. After you purchase the oil, they continue to mail you testimonials of fictitious people claiming how wonderful their stuff really is.
Like the old saying goes: Only rich man can buy cheap things....because you have to keep buying them.
It may be kind of spendy but it is custom formulated for your engine and your needs. But if there is a regular oil that will do the same for lower cost it makes no sense to spend the money
The maker of that oil is on Charger forum. A Dodge Charger has a 100,000 mile 5 year warranty. Does Q-Blue satisfy the warranty (API certification etc)? Will they pay if something goes wrong? How do you know it is custom formulated to a specific engine/need? You would have to do a side by side test with another standard oil. Amsoil and Redline at the same price would be better.
Quote:
QB Catalyst uses special proprietary shear, viscosity, and anti-wear technology originally designed for severe military and space applications which reduces wear 90% and friction over 40%
"... special proprietary shear, viscosity, and anti-wear technology." Reduces wear and friction over what; sand, glue, cement? That whole website is hokum.
Quote:
The thinking here was that if Quantum Blue cut wear by means of friction reduction then this might offset any viscous loss due to being a 15-45 blend versus the 0-30 Mobil blend currently in the sump.
Read more: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tec...l#ixzz1rlwbyzKe
They quote an article from GM High Tech Magazine, but that magazine is not from General Motors. It is just like any other magazines. That article was a sales pitch. There is no 15-40 grade.
Quote:
5w20, 5w25, 7.5w23, 8w35, 10w35, 12.5w32,12.5w35, 12.5w37, 12.5w40, 15w45, 16.3w37.5, 17.5w45, 20w35 & 20w50 racing oils:
More nonsense oil grades.
Custom blending? You tell them what you have. They go to the BITIG UOA section and see what works good in a similar setup as you describe. They go to the store and buy that oil. They pour it into a plain Jane gallon jug, print a label, with your name, on a bubble jet printer, and stick it on the jug. After you purchase the oil, they continue to mail you testimonials of fictitious people claiming how wonderful their stuff really is.
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I know some companies just do not want to pay for the API certification or are loaded with so many additives that their oils would not pass current API regulations. I do not know about this product. I can not even get the webpage to load.
Originally Posted By: LoganC
Im not trying to say its better than other oils im just a kid who wants to find a good oil for an aggressive flat tappet cam with hydraulic lifters. For a 1969 Chevrolet C-10 with a 350 that i built. thanks for the help guys.
Well, we know little about the oil, but we're skeptical. No API/ILSAC certification is an issue. SOPUS can get away with not having their oils all certified (i.e. their HM oils) since they have built trust up over decades with their quality API lines. RL, RP, Amsoil, and other boutique oils also succeed because they stand behind their products with warranties and have been around for years.
For your applications, there are plenty of options, including HDEOs, Quaker State Defy, high mileage oils, Royal Purple HPS, or standard PCMO with a zinc additive. The site claims that moly is outdated, yet speaks of the lack of ZDDP in modern PCMOs. Isn't that a bit of a mixed message?
There's also one important thing to look at. When the price of two oil changes exceeds the price of replacing the cam and lifters, then one is paying too much for oil.
Im not trying to say its better than other oils im just a kid who wants to find a good oil for an aggressive flat tappet cam with hydraulic lifters. For a 1969 Chevrolet C-10 with a 350 that i built. thanks for the help guys.
Well, we know little about the oil, but we're skeptical. No API/ILSAC certification is an issue. SOPUS can get away with not having their oils all certified (i.e. their HM oils) since they have built trust up over decades with their quality API lines. RL, RP, Amsoil, and other boutique oils also succeed because they stand behind their products with warranties and have been around for years.
For your applications, there are plenty of options, including HDEOs, Quaker State Defy, high mileage oils, Royal Purple HPS, or standard PCMO with a zinc additive. The site claims that moly is outdated, yet speaks of the lack of ZDDP in modern PCMOs. Isn't that a bit of a mixed message?
There's also one important thing to look at. When the price of two oil changes exceeds the price of replacing the cam and lifters, then one is paying too much for oil.
Okay since we definitely hate the Quantum blue stuff what would be a good oil for my pickup. Live in North Dakota so it gets pretty dang cold.
350 Bored .060 over
Vortec Heads
9.89:1 compression
Probe Forged pistons
Lunati 60103 cam that has been nitrided
Armored lifters with hardened bottom to help prevent wear.
700r4 trans
3.73 posi 12bolt rearend.
Driven mainly in the Summer as a cruiser. Probably wont put on over 4,000 miles a year. Will be using a Wix/Napa Gold oversized filter. still has oil bypass in place.
Anything else please just ask.
350 Bored .060 over
Vortec Heads
9.89:1 compression
Probe Forged pistons
Lunati 60103 cam that has been nitrided
Armored lifters with hardened bottom to help prevent wear.
700r4 trans
3.73 posi 12bolt rearend.
Driven mainly in the Summer as a cruiser. Probably wont put on over 4,000 miles a year. Will be using a Wix/Napa Gold oversized filter. still has oil bypass in place.
Anything else please just ask.
Well, we don't "hate" it, we're just skeptical. It certainly could be great oil, but it's price is alarming. What did your builder recommend? If you're not driving the heck out of it, something like QS Defy or a 10w-30 HDEO seems reasonable.
I built the engine. Thats why i dont know what exactly to choose.
Originally Posted By: LoganC
Okay since we definitely hate the Quantum blue stuff what would be a good oil for my pickup. Live in North Dakota so it gets pretty dang cold.
350 Bored .060 over
Vortec Heads
9.89:1 compression
Probe Forged pistons
Lunati 60103 cam that has been nitrided
Armored lifters with hardened bottom to help prevent wear.
700r4 trans
3.73 posi 12bolt rearend.
Driven mainly in the Summer as a cruiser. Probably wont put on over 4,000 miles a year. Will be using a Wix/Napa Gold oversized filter. still has oil bypass in place.
Anything else please just ask.
The oil grade you need depends on the bearing clearances. You should know the clearance between you crank and bearings. A smaller clearance requires a thinner oil. From your description, and not knowing your clearance, I suggest 5w-40 Rotella, or 10w-40 MaxLife. You can ask Valvoline a question in the NextGen Q&A topic and get a rebate for a 5qt jug of their oil. I don't know if the rebate is for Maxlife or the regular NextGen.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2597180&#Post2597180
Okay since we definitely hate the Quantum blue stuff what would be a good oil for my pickup. Live in North Dakota so it gets pretty dang cold.
350 Bored .060 over
Vortec Heads
9.89:1 compression
Probe Forged pistons
Lunati 60103 cam that has been nitrided
Armored lifters with hardened bottom to help prevent wear.
700r4 trans
3.73 posi 12bolt rearend.
Driven mainly in the Summer as a cruiser. Probably wont put on over 4,000 miles a year. Will be using a Wix/Napa Gold oversized filter. still has oil bypass in place.
Anything else please just ask.
The oil grade you need depends on the bearing clearances. You should know the clearance between you crank and bearings. A smaller clearance requires a thinner oil. From your description, and not knowing your clearance, I suggest 5w-40 Rotella, or 10w-40 MaxLife. You can ask Valvoline a question in the NextGen Q&A topic and get a rebate for a 5qt jug of their oil. I don't know if the rebate is for Maxlife or the regular NextGen.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2597180&#Post2597180
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Main bearing clearance is .002" Same for rod bearings. Nothing crazy loose. Just a street engine. I may be dumb for asking this question but what would be good numbers to look for in an oil that would be a good fit for this engine I.E. ppm of Zinc and Phos and Moly and also TBN and such. I am new to oils but i like to learn and i know i can learn a lot from people on this forum.
I'd lean more towards something like the Defy, but Loobed's suggestion of 5w-40 Rotella is definitely worth considering. It'll be a bit thicker, yet you won't sacrifice a bunch of cold weather startup protection, either. You also won't be short of zinc.
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