Air compressor calls for 10w40

[Chris142]

My old CH compressor says to use 10w40 in it. Everything I read says not to use Detergent oil in a compressor.

I have been running Castrol 0w40 in it since it has a hard time starting when cold. It blows my breaker unless I put 0wxx in it.

I see that Amsoil has 10,20,30 etc compressor oils but I don't think those will work w/o blowing the breaker.

Thoughts?

 

[eljefino]

Check your wiring from the fusebox through the outlet, the cord, the contacts in the compressor's switch. As a matter of fact just stick a new breaker in, they're about $4. (They should have a motor delay function where they briefly let more than rated thru.) Yeah it's probably at work and the boss doesn't want you mucking with it...

If the outlets are daisy-chained, plug into the first one on the chain. Get a 20 amp industrial outlet, has a little horizontal leg sticking sideways out of the "regular" outlet.

Mine stalls at zero degrees farenheit on 20 weight, I don't think oil viscosity is your hugest problem but rather a band aid on something else.

 

[Chris142]

This is at home.The breaker is pretty new. I replaced it to try to solve the problem but the problem is small wires that lead to my garage.

I don't want to up the amperage and burn the house down.

The compressor just pulls too much currant when trying to start with cold oil. Infact I must turn the lights off before I turn on the compressor.

 

[Rand]

I had this problem with a 2hp harbor freight model.

my friends garage is wired with a 100ft extension cord...

doesnt provide enough startup amperage.

 

[eljefino]

Wonder if there's a way to add an ez start capacitor to your motor. The new fridges have them. I can easily run my new fridge on my 900 watt HF generator while the old one I had to rev up with a hair dryer then do a quick/instant switchover.

 

[Chris142]

Ok now I'm confused. I found the manual online. It says to use Compressor oil, sae30 or 20 depending on temperature.

But the compressor has a sticker that says to use 10w40.
http://www.chpower.com/IMAGES/pdfs/manual03/U000382_0101.pdf

 

[Pablo]

That IS loony!

OK here's the trick. Don't shop for compressor oil using SAE viscosities. It will make your head hurt.

Just get a synthetic ISO-100 compressor oil and be done with it.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Wonder if there's a way to add an ez start capacitor to your motor. The new fridges have them. I can easily run my new fridge on my 900 watt HF generator while the old one I had to rev up with a hair dryer then do a quick/instant switchover.


LOL! Great story.

Likely 10w-40 is being recommended because it is what the average user is familiar with and will know the best. What they are really looking for is a working viscosity of X, which aligns to the 40wt range.

Get a viscosity chart, find the matching ISO range, and but a purpose-specific compressor lube that matches.

I found my compressor ran a lot cooler on syn.

 

[Chris142]

I was at home Depot yesterday so I wandered over to the tool section.

I found some "Husky" compressor oil. It's made by CH and says it's for all air compressors. It's definatly "thinner" than SAE30 judging by a bottle shaking test.

My compressor is a mess so I'm working on cleaning it up, replacing the belt etc and I'm concerned about water getting in the oil from my washing it.

I'm assuming that the Husky oil will be fine for mine for the time being untill I can get to Napa or the Amsoil store.

 

[tig1]

I use Lowe's semi synthetic 30wt. compressor oil and it works very well for me.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
Ok now I'm confused. I found the manual online. It says to use Compressor oil, sae30 or 20 depending on temperature.

But the compressor has a sticker that says to use 10w40.
http://www.chpower.com/IMAGES/pdfs/manual03/U000382_0101.pdf


You're absolutely right. One manual (from a big manufacturer) that I was going through this weekend said to use Mobil 1 10w-30, and in the next paragraph, recommended ISO 100 non-detergent compressor oil, because automotive oil detergents were harmful. Last time I checked, M1 10w-30 was not a non-detergent motor oil.

In any case, stick with what Pablo said and get some ISO 100. If the compressor is rarely used and rarely gets warm and the ISO 100 throws your breaker, maybe go to an ISO 68. If I recall correctly, ISO 100 is around a 30 viscosity at 100 C, and the ISO 68 is thinner.

 

[nate379]

That is what I use in mine as well and it works ok. Does trip the breaker once in a while when starting though, but just when it's cold out (-20*)

Originally Posted By: tig1
I use Lowe's semi synthetic 30wt. compressor oil and it works very well for me.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Rand
doesnt provide enough startup amperage.


Sort of, induction motors will try to pull "power" down the line. An extension lead drops the voltage, and the motor compensates with a higher current draw, which trips the breaker.

At the power station, we just "tap up" the transformers to provide more volts to the system, which drops the current proportionally...although when a 12,000hp motor starts D.O.L. (Direct on Line), the lights all dim for a second (45,000hp inrush efect on starting) (our 415 is usually 460V, 3.3kV usually 3.5, and 11kV usually nearly 12)

 

[Shannow]

What's the problem with detergents ?

Just unpacked and commissioned my 2.5hp, and all it says is SAE 30...and I've got 5L of Delvac 1330 that never made it into the E30 gearbox.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
What's the problem with detergents ?

Some people say that the detergents will gum up the reed valves. Sounds like horse hocky to me.

 

[Shannow]

Delvac 1330 it is then...

The stuff that I drained out was purplish, and had that particular smell that you get when you open a chinese manufactured greasy tool.

 

[tig1]

I believe Overk1ll uses M1 5-30 in his with no problems. If I were you and having these problems, I would go with M1 0-30 and give it a go.

 

[OVERKILL]

M1 0w40 actually