I switched out the 195 degree therm for a 180 degree on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9. I'm wondering if this will effect my fuel mileage and efficiency. Can anyone offer info?
180 degree thermostat 1996 Dodge Ram 1500
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Originally Posted By: RowdyYates
I switched out the 195 degree therm for a 180 degree on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9. I'm wondering if this will effect my fuel mileage and efficiency. Can anyone offer info?
I switched out the 195 degree therm for a 180 degree on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9. I'm wondering if this will effect my fuel mileage and efficiency. Can anyone offer info?
I'll bite.
It might effect your mileage but how much depends upon your driving style and environment. In general, the hotter your engine the more efficient it is, to a point of course.
If it runs cold enough it may not get into closed loop operation and it will be running with default fuel/air ratios.
Why the 180? Are you having problems overheating? It's always better to treat the cause not the symptom.
It might effect your mileage but how much depends upon your driving style and environment. In general, the hotter your engine the more efficient it is, to a point of course.
If it runs cold enough it may not get into closed loop operation and it will be running with default fuel/air ratios.
Why the 180? Are you having problems overheating? It's always better to treat the cause not the symptom.
has been running a little hot, the old thermostat was sticking and was leaking
I doubt it will run in open loop @ 180F. My Astro goes to closed loop at 130F and my Sienna at 105F. I don't think it will effect much running the 180F therm.
If you do a lot of heavy towing in hot temp and your oil temp is above 230-240F, then 180F thermostat makes sense. Otherwise 195F thermostat is better, especially when most your trips are less than 20-25 miles.
The 180 degree thermostat won't force open loop, but probably will cause a loss of fuel economy. I can't see it being more than 5% at worst though. It should turn your check engine light on. Also, long term, the less efficient burn might cause an increased rate of catalyst deterioration. You might want to change your oil a bit more frequently as well. If you notice it starting to idle a little rough, consider possibly switching to a hotter spark plug or at least cleaning and regapping the old ones.
Dodge Magnum V8s come out of open loop at 178 degrees. The 180 is recommended by Hughes engines among others. It will be fine, and helps with pinging on Magnums without the so-called "death flash" that cut timing WAY back. Use it with autolite 3923s. Dyno proven all over dodgetalk.com, and I have run that combo on several 318 magnums and two 3.9 V6 magnums with no issues.
Originally Posted By: 95busa
Dodge Magnum V8s come out of open loop at 178 degrees. The 180 is recommended by Hughes engines among others. It will be fine, and helps with pinging on Magnums without the so-called "death flash" that cut timing WAY back. Use it with autolite 3923s. Dyno proven all over dodgetalk.com, and I have run that combo on several 318 magnums and two 3.9 V6 magnums with no issues.
+1
I put a 180 on my truck several years ago, I have a 2001 Dakota with the 3.9 V6 Magnum engine. I also used 3923 plugs, and the reason I did it was to eliminate ping. The 180 and 3923's were the only solution that actually worked to get rid of the ping. It also helped improve power, at least on the butt-dyno. Some say the 180 and colder plug causes a loss of MPG but I never really noticed a difference. Maybe it dropped just a bit, not enough to worry about.
Dodge Magnum V8s come out of open loop at 178 degrees. The 180 is recommended by Hughes engines among others. It will be fine, and helps with pinging on Magnums without the so-called "death flash" that cut timing WAY back. Use it with autolite 3923s. Dyno proven all over dodgetalk.com, and I have run that combo on several 318 magnums and two 3.9 V6 magnums with no issues.
+1
I put a 180 on my truck several years ago, I have a 2001 Dakota with the 3.9 V6 Magnum engine. I also used 3923 plugs, and the reason I did it was to eliminate ping. The 180 and 3923's were the only solution that actually worked to get rid of the ping. It also helped improve power, at least on the butt-dyno. Some say the 180 and colder plug causes a loss of MPG but I never really noticed a difference. Maybe it dropped just a bit, not enough to worry about.
Due to Dodge's super conservative knock sensors they pull timing at the slightest hint of knock. A cooler thermostat is a PROVEN way to fix this.
You will only throw a PO128 code if you do not reach 180 in less than 10 minutes for 3 trips. So a 180 stat is about perfect. I always recommend the Jet 180 as it is all stainless and actually operates at about 183-185, so no codes.
You will only throw a PO128 code if you do not reach 180 in less than 10 minutes for 3 trips. So a 180 stat is about perfect. I always recommend the Jet 180 as it is all stainless and actually operates at about 183-185, so no codes.
Colder thermostats make the head cooler, and you lose thermal efficiency.
The fuel is used to heat the head/cyl walls instead of being directed for power.
It is a heat sink in the wrong direction.
This is why Ford and others us a thermostat with TWO settings - one for cruising [hotter], and one for full power [colder].
But will you see a difference? Could be - who knows how you drive.
The fuel is used to heat the head/cyl walls instead of being directed for power.
It is a heat sink in the wrong direction.
This is why Ford and others us a thermostat with TWO settings - one for cruising [hotter], and one for full power [colder].
But will you see a difference? Could be - who knows how you drive.
Thanks for the info. Truck seems to run fine at 180. the truck would die when it was cold it would not idle. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it, replaced the IAC valve. Replaced the thermostat as well since the gasket was leaking and it would run hot as well. I thought I fixed the idle problem with the IAC but it died again on me today, just once though. Does anyone have suggestions. I will replace the TPS next. the truck will only die when it is not up to temp.
You could try and clean the MAF sensor with dedicated spray MAF cleaner.
Vacuum leaks are always a source of idle problems, too. A manual check of each with their connections is always good maintenance.
this seems to be exactly what you are experiencing - a vacuum leak is worse for idling when cold when you need more richness.
TPS is possible, of course.
Vacuum leaks are always a source of idle problems, too. A manual check of each with their connections is always good maintenance.
this seems to be exactly what you are experiencing - a vacuum leak is worse for idling when cold when you need more richness.
TPS is possible, of course.
Many of the RAM trucks I see do not have a MAF sensor. They are speed/density systems.
No MAF. You could try adjusting the TPS voltage. You have to drill out a few fasteners. Dodgetalk.com has some how-tos. Make sure your battery and alternator are giving good voltage. Check the coil, all general tune up stuff. Scan for codes (including intermittant codes). Check for vaccuum leaks.
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