OCI and oil for new (to me) driving style

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2 qts in 2.3k. Oil was changed at 50.1k exactly. With the weather getting warmer, I'll be avoiding the "energy conserving" oils due to consumption increasing with temperatures.
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
I strongly believe that the plow-truck hitting that door 2 years ago led to this incident.

Nope. Chevrolets did that, just like the song.:p
"Oh...dust and smoke, the heater's broke"
"The door just flew away."
"Light a match to see the dash and then I start to freeze."
"The frame is bent, the muffler went"
"But the radio, it's ok."
"Oh what fun it is to drive this rusty Chevrolet." :p





Oh man I havent heard that in years!! Blast from the past!

I've owned 3 Chevy's. My first one completely lived up to the song. It never died or failed to run, but did it's best to keep me broke with leaks and small repairs.
frown.gif

I had a '76 Impala that leaked gear oil into the brakes, leaked a qt of oil per week, the doors used to randomly pop open on pot holes unless locked, rear frame listed to one side from rust, almost no heat ever, and the only dash light that worked was on the side of speedometer above clock space(had clock delete), yet the AM/FM mono radio worked perfectly. I junked it at 254k miles. Every time I washed it, the car would catch on fire. Apparently, the excessive oil/grease/sludge on the engine acted as insulation preventing short circuits.
 
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I had to laugh at your comment re; the door popping open when hitting a pot hole. I really wonder how much more the general public is going to put up with Penn Dot`s [censored] stories re; not having any money? They certainly saved a BUNDLE this winter alone! I for one would love to audit them, where the [censored] is the money going? Sorry for the hijack/rant.
 
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@53.2k (3.1 on oil) added about 1/2 qt of old 5w-30 I found on shelf in the garage. Was about 3/4 qt low on dipstick anyway.
Averaging 18-19 mpg combined currently. State inspection coming soon, may have to call-in a favor since I haven't been able to find a tail light yet.
Actually reached 84mph briefly while in the vacuum from a truck. :)Not something I should do again.
 
@54k: added another 1/2 qt bringing it up to 3 qts added total. Now reading 1/4 qt below full at 4k on oil.
Huge change in oil appearance on dipstick since 3k. Will be changing again in about 2 weeks.
 
Actually, I'm getting ready to resurrect a better backup for the Granada. Something a bit cheaper to run than my Newport. I've just negotiated to buy a '77 Buick Riviera and will be bringing it home this week. It hasn't been driven since 1997 so I'll spend the summer bringing it up to speed.
It's somewhere in the middle as far as driving costs based on my current options. Price was right and I have tons of Buick mechanical parts left over from 3 previous cars. Waste not, want not. Exact same as one below, just not quite as nice.

http://www.curbsideclassic.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/1977-buick-riviera-1.jpg
 
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Good choice.
This was the first year for the first gen GM downsized B-bodies,
and is also the first year that the Riv was built on the GM B-body platform.
My family had a '77 Caprice (same platform) with 350/4bbl, F-41 and posi.
It had a big rear anti roll bar, and was a delight to drive.
By the standards of the day, it was pretty quick.
This car has a full frame, so rust repair should be easier if needed.
Ride, handling and quietness will be worlds better than they are with the Grenada.
Fuel economy should be very similar in your use.
 
This one has one scrape and one dent, but no holes or real rust. Only rot on car is the aluminum inner rear bumper support. I'll have to do a little fabrication there. It has the Buick-built 350 4bbl "J" code engine, which I'm very familiar with. In one evening of looking through my old parts, I found a set of cylinder heads with fresh valve job, a carb, set of wheel cylinders, and some fuel filters. Combined mileage should be about 2-3mpg less than Granada. Not great, but won't break the bank either when I need it.
 
Very cool, SS1970chrysler!

Looking forward to hearing about your 'adventures' with your new ride!

Would love to see pics when you start working on it......
 
It should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. I imagine it'll have some issues, but everything does. I'm thinking of finally "antique-registering" the Chrysler as a reward for all its years of great service.
 
77 Riviera arrived today. Runs pretty good for not being used in 15 years. Needs vacuum hoses, radiator hoses, tuneup(slight miss/backfire), filters, oil, and currently no rear brakes. All simple stuff, but will take awhile since my free time is short. I figure I'll do something each week or so.
 
Man, I wonder what a UOA would look like on 15-year old oil!!!

When you change it, are you going to run some of the 30wt you got for the summer?

My dad had a 305-powered Chev Malibu, and I still have the manual for it. Calls for 30wt. oil from 40F and up - would work well for the summer!
 
I'm just going to dump in a bunch of odd qts I have around here more or less as a flush. All I had time for today was air up the tires, change air and fuel filters, spray out the carb and fill it with gas. tried to take some pictures, but I'm only getting a white screen on camera with any pics from outside. :?
These Buick-built 350's like a thicker oil due to seal design. It still uses to old rope-seal style with a shedder.

@ 54.4k added 4th qt to Granada.
 
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I read in the other thread that when adding oil, the VC's filled with oil and took a long time to drain.

Means the oil passages are blocked with crud and sludge - you may have a sludged-up engine.
 
I'd almost guarantee there's some sludge in there. I'll be taking my time before really using this one much. This one's the first I ever saw with no oil in the center tube of the filter though. Based on the can, I definitely think the oil was in there 15 years at a minimum.
All fluids will be getting replaced, as well as perishable parts. Picked up new cap and rotor with brass terminals.
 
No way I can get a wrench up in there to remove bad center brake line in the rear of the riv, so that's getting "farmed out" unless I can get a union up in there. First attempt at doing so failed.
Left oil filter to drain 2 days and nothing came out. Must have been completely plugged and only running on bypass.
Changed cap and rotor today, also found blower motor is bad.
 
While doing other work on the car, I'd start it up a couple of time with oil-filler cap open to see if you're even getting oil to the valvetrain.

A bit messy, but all the wok on the car will be wasted if the motor locks up.....
 
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