Need to remove broken screw extractor

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Bluestream

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I have broken screw extractor stuck in a broken exhaust manifold bold. I cant drill out the screw extractor as its too hard and my best drill bits just spin. Any tips on how to remove this thing? I have heard to use a carbide bit or a diamond bit. I have also heard about taking the manifold in to have "spark erosion" used.

This is in an aluminum Sea-Doo manifold, and the broken bolt is stainless steel.

I saw another poster here list this tool a while ago, and it looks great, but for $50 not sure I want to take the risk that it wont work as they promise
 
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either a machine shop or you will need a big hammer and a punch. Knock the bolt and extractor out threads and all and retap it for a larger thread size. I had the same thing happen to a grand am egr valve port. Machine shop knock it out and retapped it.
 
I am a welder and have removed dozens, if not a hundred broken bolts, studs, etc. You need to take it to a good welding shop and find someone who looks at it and says "no problem, gimme 5 minutes". Seriously, that's all it will take. I've removed some broken cylinder head bolts in tractors and many ex. manifold bolts. (My uncle restores antique tractors or a living, so I get called quite a bit!) The heat from welding a nut, or extension of some sort onto the bolt also loosens it, making it come it easily once it cools. Just keep going to welding shops till you find someone who knows what they're doing.
 
Machine shop with a EDM machine ,After set up it should not take to long or cost much
 
Here is a picture; its the stud at the bottom of the pic.

This is the 720 engine aluminum exhaust manifold; It has two broken studs. The two ports on the outside of the exhaust hole are water jackets for cooling the manifold.

With the botom one I was able to drill through the stud, and I felt the drill bit come out the bottom of the stud, and bottom out in the aluminum casting. After the extractor broke, I tired to push the broken extractor tip out the bottom of the stud with a punch so I could try again (with more heat) but it just got more jambed into the stud. It was a long shot, and I now deeply regret doing this, but a lesson learned. I can't knock these out with a punch and BFH as the bottom of the screw hole is closed in the casting and not threaded all the way through.

The top stud I have not attempted to remove yet, as it would be pointless anyway with the other one still stuck in.

I think I am out of options on this job... The bit shown in my fisrt posting would do the job if I knew for sure that they worked. What would I expect to pay a machine shop to remove these things? I was thinking one hour labor...

001.jpg
 
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Irwin sells a kit of EZ-out bits and left hand drill bits. I may consider that.

I just had some work done on a GM small block engine around the exhaust donut area and the ones that did not come out, they welded on bolts to the broken bolts and took them out.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Irwin sells a kit of EZ-out bits and left hand drill bits. I may consider that.


I forgot to mention the first thing I tried were left handed drill bits; they did nothing.
 
You need to turn the easy out to the right to loosen it so a left handed drill bit is useless anyway.
Take a small pointed punch and tap it with small ball peen hammer in short quick raps clockwise.
 
I used the left handed bit first before the easy out. I was hoping that the drilling would just turn out the broken stud. That did not happen. I don't think I can tap it clockwise at this point. If you read above, I tried to drive the easy out down and out the bottom of the broken stud; it in there real good.

I need something that will drill out, or ream away the easy out that's all that will work now. What about carbide bits?
 
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Originally Posted By: atc250r
How recessed are they? About 1/8"?


Yes, 1/8 to 1/4 inch recess.

By Carbide bits are we talking about the carbide bits for masonry use??
 
Originally Posted By: atc250r
I am a welder and have removed dozens, if not a hundred broken bolts, studs, etc. You need to take it to a good welding shop and find someone who looks at it and says "no problem, gimme 5 minutes". Seriously, that's all it will take. I've removed some broken cylinder head bolts in tractors and many ex. manifold bolts. (My uncle restores antique tractors or a living, so I get called quite a bit!) The heat from welding a nut, or extension of some sort onto the bolt also loosens it, making it come it easily once it cools. Just keep going to welding shops till you find someone who knows what they're doing.


This is best^^.

Carbide bits on a Dremel tool will also make a hole so you can jam something in there to unstick it.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: atc250r
I am a welder and have removed dozens, if not a hundred broken bolts, studs, etc. You need to take it to a good welding shop and find someone who looks at it and says "no problem, gimme 5 minutes". Seriously, that's all it will take. I've removed some broken cylinder head bolts in tractors and many ex. manifold bolts. (My uncle restores antique tractors or a living, so I get called quite a bit!) The heat from welding a nut, or extension of some sort onto the bolt also loosens it, making it come it easily once it cools. Just keep going to welding shops till you find someone who knows what they're doing.


This is best^^.

Carbide bits on a Dremel tool will also make a hole so you can jam something in there to unstick it.


How would anyone be able to weld a a nut or extension on this when in it recessed 1.4 inch? Keep in mind I used a punch and drove the broken extractor tip farther in the broken stud, further jamming it in place.

I am going to buy a carbide bit and try the Dremel tool.
 
Another possible option would be to try a small stone bit in your Dremel. I do believe the Rescue bits work as I thought I remember one of the tool reps coming around with them and saying that he saw it in action?

As a side note, when re-assembling your engine, make sure to use some anti-seize on those stainless fasteners.
 
Guys, I finally got around to this job. I bought a 3/16 carbide drill bit. It cost $20m but drilled though the broken extractor like a hot knife through butter. Great feeling watching all the metal fillings come out. Next step will to to tap in some new 8mm threads
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
And next time? An Easy Out is not that easy?


I tried to do it the "easy" way and used too much force with extractor. They are actually brittle IMO and can snap on you very fast.

I would use them again, but the area around the stud is getting the full oxy-acetylene heat before I try to move it...
 
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