lubro moly moS2 update

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: racin4ds
I just went down to the local NAPA the other day and bought two bottles for $4.xx each! Seems like a good deal if this stuff works as well as its hyped up to.


They sold it to you at the OLD price, as yesterday my local NAPA wanted $8.00+

for a can!!!

Crazy price jumps, did moly just take a major spike in value on the international markets or something??!!

 

[sammy]

I just bought 2 cans at Napa today, it was &7.50 each. I wish I would have bought a few cases back when it was 4 bucks!

 

[chevman4life]

I seen this talked about around the forum but could not locate it. I was wondering what OCI moS2 would be ok. Is it safe to keep in the sump the entire OC? I used it last OC for 6k but this run is going to be about 7k. Driving style is 80% hwy.

Also, I am trying out PU this run. So far the engine seems really quiet and smooth running. I've seen this mentioned on here before by others.

 

[Loobed]

Originally Posted By: chevman4life
I seen this talked about around the forum but could not locate it. I was wondering what OCI moS2 would be ok. Is it safe to keep in the sump the entire OC? I used it last OC for 6k but this run is going to be about 7k. Driving style is 80% hwy.



You can leave it in as long as you want. Some will stay in the engine even after you change the oil.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: Loobed
Originally Posted By: chevman4life
I seen this talked about around the forum but could not locate it. I was wondering what OCI moS2 would be ok. Is it safe to keep in the sump the entire OC? I used it last OC for 6k but this run is going to be about 7k. Driving style is 80% hwy.



You can leave it in as long as you want. Some will stay in the engine even after you change the oil.



Yes, it's fine with an OCI length. The only 'potential' issue with this is in a car that isn't driven often(at least once a week for example) and/or has a particular engine design that would cause an issue.

There was a thread in the past about someone using it that had a certain kind of camshaft design that did not respond well to it, but I can't recall. I'm sure it's in THIS sub-forum somewhere, though.

He changed the oil and the issue with mos2 went away. Anyone else know what I'm talking about or remember that?

PS: I'm also using mos2 with my current fill of Ultra, goal of at least 7,500 miles with a UOA. My method was to add it after a good 1,000-1,500 miles so the initial cleansing effects from fresh oil would do it's job without fighting the MoS2 for surface affinity. I wound up adding 3/4ths of a can to my 3.5 quart sump(11 ounces or so) some time before 1,500 miles, IIRC. Car runs great.

 

[sammy]

There has been some talk in this thread about ZDDP poisoning your Cat. So what, the benefit outweighs the risk, a Cat is only about 100 bucks whereas it can cost 10G's to replace an engine, depending on your engine. All of our engines would benefit from Moly and ZDDP additives. The environmentalists have been effecting policy on oil companies and engine makers for decades. They don't like ZDDP or Moly, because of the toxicity. I change my oil responsibly so the enviro's can stay out of my business. I run Lubro Moly and ZDDP in my 2010 Hemi and it will remain that way as long as I can still buy them. I don't necessarily feel much difference in my 400hp motor, but that is not to say I'm not benefiting. If you understand metal to metal contact and that all engines have metal to metal contact, then for anyone to say zddp and moly aren't helpful is just ignorance.

Question, other then oil is there any additives that use both Moly and ZDDP in high levels? If so I'm buying some.


.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: sammy
There has been some talk in this thread about ZDDP poisoning your Cat. So what, the benefit outweighs the risk, a Cat is only about 100 bucks whereas it can cost 10G's to replace an engine, depending on your engine. All of our engines would benefit from Moly and ZDDP additives. The environmentalists have been effecting policy on oil companies and engine makers for decades. They don't like ZDDP or Moly, because of the toxicity. I change my oil responsibly so the enviro's can stay out of my business. I run Lubro Moly and ZDDP in my 2010 Hemi and it will remain that way as long as I can still buy them. I don't necessarily feel much difference in my 400hp motor, but that is not to say I'm not benefiting. If you understand metal to metal contact and that all engines have metal to metal contact, then for anyone to say zddp and moly aren't helpful is just ignorance.

Question, other then oil is there any additives that use both Moly and ZDDP in high levels? If so I'm buying some.



I honestly think its pretty hard to kill a CC. I've been driving since before the CC existed, and through their evolution up until now, I never replaced one. In fact I've been adding MMO to gas in just about everything I've owned. Some people think MMO will kill a CC. My E-150 has MMO added via an Inverse Oiler or to the gas since I bought it in 1987. My Aerostar for well over 150,000 miles. That has the original CC and O2 sensor. I don't worry much about killing a CC. I also use ZDDP and/or moly additives.

Unless you have a real oil burner on your hands I wouldn't worry to much about destroying a CC.

If you're looking for a good ZDDP additive check out Redline's Break In Oil Additive.

 

[chevman4life]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: Loobed
Originally Posted By: chevman4life
I seen this talked about around the forum but could not locate it. I was wondering what OCI moS2 would be ok. Is it safe to keep in the sump the entire OC? I used it last OC for 6k but this run is going to be about 7k. Driving style is 80% hwy.



You can leave it in as long as you want. Some will stay in the engine even after you change the oil.



Yes, it's fine with an OCI length. The only 'potential' issue with this is in a car that isn't driven often(at least once a week for example) and/or has a particular engine design that would cause an issue.

There was a thread in the past about someone using it that had a certain kind of camshaft design that did not respond well to it, but I can't recall. I'm sure it's in THIS sub-forum somewhere, though.

He changed the oil and the issue with mos2 went away. Anyone else know what I'm talking about or remember that?

PS: I'm also using mos2 with my current fill of Ultra, goal of at least 7,500 miles with a UOA. My method was to add it after a good 1,000-1,500 miles so the initial cleansing effects from fresh oil would do it's job without fighting the MoS2 for surface affinity. I wound up adding 3/4ths of a can to my 3.5 quart sump(11 ounces or so) some time before 1,500 miles, IIRC. Car runs great.




Thanks. I think I will as some after 1,000 miles or so.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: chevman4life
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: Loobed
Originally Posted By: chevman4life
I seen this talked about around the forum but could not locate it. I was wondering what OCI moS2 would be ok. Is it safe to keep in the sump the entire OC? I used it last OC for 6k but this run is going to be about 7k. Driving style is 80% hwy.



You can leave it in as long as you want. Some will stay in the engine even after you change the oil.



Yes, it's fine with an OCI length. The only 'potential' issue with this is in a car that isn't driven often(at least once a week for example) and/or has a particular engine design that would cause an issue.

There was a thread in the past about someone using it that had a certain kind of camshaft design that did not respond well to it, but I can't recall. I'm sure it's in THIS sub-forum somewhere, though.

He changed the oil and the issue with mos2 went away. Anyone else know what I'm talking about or remember that?

PS: I'm also using mos2 with my current fill of Ultra, goal of at least 7,500 miles with a UOA. My method was to add it after a good 1,000-1,500 miles so the initial cleansing effects from fresh oil would do it's job without fighting the MoS2 for surface affinity. I wound up adding 3/4ths of a can to my 3.5 quart sump(11 ounces or so) some time before 1,500 miles, IIRC. Car runs great.




Thanks. I think I will as some after 1,000 miles or so.


You actually WANT moly to stay in the sump as long as possible, as it takes some time (and high heat) in order for it to 'bond' to the internal metal surfaces of an engine.

This is one of the reasons why sooo many say it is a "total waste" (besides the $$$$ lost) to do a short OCI using a premium, 'boutique', very high add pack group 4/5 oil.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: sammy
Question, other then oil is there any additives that use both Moly and ZDDP in high levels? If so I'm buying some.


Yes, Torco's MPZ additive, and Lubeatech's LTR additive both contain insane amounts of ZDDP and soluble/(trimer??) moly.

BOTH are hard to find, and are costly, but if that is what you are looking for, these are the ones.

BTW; as long as engine oil is not getting past the piston ring packs/lands, or through the valve seals, ZDDP/moly/whatever are NOT getting into the catcons in any measurable amount.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: chevman4life
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim


Yes, it's fine with an OCI length. The only 'potential' issue with this is in a car that isn't driven often(at least once a week for example) and/or has a particular engine design that would cause an issue.

There was a thread in the past about someone using it that had a certain kind of camshaft design that did not respond well to it, but I can't recall. I'm sure it's in THIS sub-forum somewhere, though.

He changed the oil and the issue with mos2 went away. Anyone else know what I'm talking about or remember that?

PS: I'm also using mos2 with my current fill of Ultra, goal of at least 7,500 miles with a UOA. My method was to add it after a good 1,000-1,500 miles so the initial cleansing effects from fresh oil would do it's job without fighting the MoS2 for surface affinity. I wound up adding 3/4ths of a can to my 3.5 quart sump(11 ounces or so) some time before 1,500 miles, IIRC. Car runs great.




Thanks. I think I will as some after 1,000 miles or so.


You actually WANT moly to stay in the sump as long as possible, as it takes some time (and high heat) in order for it to 'bond' to the internal metal surfaces of an engine.

This is one of the reasons why sooo many say it is a "total waste" (besides the $$$$ lost) to do a short OCI using a premium, 'boutique', very high add pack group 4/5 oil.

Meh, what's 1,000 miles for cleansing then adding in a 7,500+ OCI anyway? You get the benefits for 6,000 miles and allow for initial cleansing from fresh oil to be unhindered from the moly trying to plate...but maybe I'm wrong. It 'could' help surface impurities smooth out over time and provide some cleansing of it's own.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: sammy
There has been some talk in this thread about ZDDP poisoning your Cat. So what, the benefit outweighs the risk, a Cat is only about 100 bucks whereas it can cost 10G's to replace an engine, depending on your engine. All of our engines would benefit from Moly and ZDDP additives. The environmentalists have been effecting policy on oil companies and engine makers for decades. They don't like ZDDP or Moly, because of the toxicity. I change my oil responsibly so the enviro's can stay out of my business. I run Lubro Moly and ZDDP in my 2010 Hemi and it will remain that way as long as I can still buy them. I don't necessarily feel much difference in my 400hp motor, but that is not to say I'm not benefiting. If you understand metal to metal contact and that all engines have metal to metal contact, then for anyone to say zddp and moly aren't helpful is just ignorance.

Question, other then oil is there any additives that use both Moly and ZDDP in high levels? If so I'm buying some.



I honestly think its pretty hard to kill a CC. I've been driving since before the CC existed, and through their evolution up until now, I never replaced one. In fact I've been adding MMO to gas in just about everything I've owned. Some people think MMO will kill a CC. My E-150 has MMO added via an Inverse Oiler or to the gas since I bought it in 1987. My Aerostar for well over 150,000 miles. That has the original CC and O2 sensor. I don't worry much about killing a CC. I also use ZDDP and/or moly additives.

Unless you have a real oil burner on your hands I wouldn't worry to much about destroying a CC.

If you're looking for a good ZDDP additive check out Redline's Break In Oil Additive.


Dont think Moly matters in the oil. But oil consumption or "mostly oil" additives in the gas like seafoam or MMO, + an ECU programmed to 90% efficiency = P0420 CEL and inspection fail. just happened to me. Dont use seafoam or MMO in the gas, modern day emissions are too tight for 1930's snake "oils"

 

[demarpaint]

I haven't had it happen yet with my 08 Jeep Liberty. I had an EVAP Emissions System Small leak, nothing to do with MMO though, it was a bad gas cap.

Do you have one of the Pentastar engines in your GC that might be tripping the CEL due to a bad head? I'm watching that unfold closely. I have my heart set on a 2013 Wrangler but want to be sure they have it all worked out first.

Edit to add: This might pertain to the GC and others with the 3.6 engine, it might be worth looking into.

4 oz of MMO to 10 gallons of gas isn't going to trip a CEL. Call Turtle Wax and ask.


TSB 18-054-11 released 12/15 for a pcm update, your codes not included, but ought to be done regardless. Save some future problems.


MODELS:
2012 (JK) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicle equipped with a 3.6L engine (sales code ERB)
built before November 1, 2011 (MDH 1101XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination. Upon
further investigation the Technician may find that any of the following Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTC's) have been set.
a. P0441 - Evap Purge System Performance
b. P0420 - Catalyst Efficiency (Bank 1)
c. P0430 - Catalyst Efficiency (Bank2)
d. P0133 - O2 Sensor 1/1 Slow Response
e. P0153 - O2 Sensor 2/1 Slow Response
f. P0300 - Multiple Cylinder Misfire
g. P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
h. P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire
i. P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire
j. P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire
k. P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire
l. P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire
m. P0835 - Clutch Pedal Switch "B" Circuit High Manual Transmission Vehicles Only

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I haven't had it happen yet with my 08 Jeep Liberty. I had an EVAP Emissions System Small leak, nothing to do with MMO though, it was a bad gas cap.

Do you have one of the Pentastar engines in your GC that might be tripping the CEL due to a bad head? I'm watching that unfold closely. I have my heart set on a 2013 Wrangler but want to be sure they have it all worked out first.

Edit to add: This might pertain to the GC and others with the 3.6 engine, it might be worth looking into.

4 oz of MMO to 10 gallons of gas isn't going to trip a CEL. Call Turtle Wax and ask.


TSB 18-054-11 released 12/15 for a pcm update, your codes not included, but ought to be done regardless. Save some future problems.


MODELS:
2012 (JK) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicle equipped with a 3.6L engine (sales code ERB)
built before November 1, 2011 (MDH 1101XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination. Upon
further investigation the Technician may find that any of the following Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTC's) have been set.
a. P0441 - Evap Purge System Performance
b. P0420 - Catalyst Efficiency (Bank 1)
c. P0430 - Catalyst Efficiency (Bank2)
d. P0133 - O2 Sensor 1/1 Slow Response
e. P0153 - O2 Sensor 2/1 Slow Response
f. P0300 - Multiple Cylinder Misfire
g. P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
h. P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire
i. P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire
j. P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire
k. P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire
l. P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire
m. P0835 - Clutch Pedal Switch "B" Circuit High Manual Transmission Vehicles Only


Thanks a bunch for this. Its Toyota and their standards. They decide the P0420 regardless of the state's emissions. Thats bull! Unfair! The anti-fouler counters that, when the state fails you, then buy a cat, Till then, lights out for $6

 

[FusilliJerry82]

I know someone with a 99 Town and Country with a 3.8 that he had to replace the head and oil pump in due to oil starvation. After that he said the valvetrain was still noisy and there was a bit of bearing noise. I told him to throw a can of this in and according to him it sounds perfectly normal now.

 

[panthermike]

Reviving an old thread here but thought that it could serve as an update thread for anyone rather than starting a new one.

I've used the LM Mos2 product for 15K miles total and the Corolla is running well as usual. I've decided that I'm going to run 1/2 can every OCI. I feel that the product is beneficial. Also, it would be nice to have feedback on this site from more people with long-term usage of Mos2. So the Corolla will be the "guinea pig".

 

[skyship]

The internet is full of "I used it and it's better" type comments, so what is of more use is a series of UOA results where you switch back and forth between no additives and some extra Zinc or Moly. That way you will find out that using a real good major brand oil that already has a full AW & EP add pack works better.
A new Cat, EGR and DPF if you have them fitted can prove very expensive for some cars and Blackstones showed that reduced Zinc oils don't make a big difference in normal useage. They do help in severe service use like racing and multiple ultra cold starts, but then a better solution is to change to an HDEO or HM oil that already has them, rather than playing oil chemist.
In the case of your old car, a move to a major brand 5/30 or 10/40 HM oil would probably work better, as they have lots of Zinc and Moly if you pick the right one.
The local Germans that play with snake oils seem to think Moly is an old fashion additive that does not work with good full synthetics too well, so they seem to be using Ceretec which has some Moly, Boron and the secret Ceramic particles from the EU space program.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: panthermike
Reviving an old thread here but thought that it could serve as an update thread for anyone rather than starting a new one.

I've used the LM Mos2 product for 15K miles total and the Corolla is running well as usual. I've decided that I'm going to run 1/2 can every OCI. I feel that the product is beneficial. Also, it would be nice to have feedback on this site from more people with long-term usage of Mos2. So the Corolla will be the "guinea pig".


Go for it. I've been adding MoS2 to my mower for probably 5 seasons now. Blue smoke would come out each time I started this machine, the engine came from the trash. MoS2 has eliminated that since I started using it. The machine is 15 years old now, and had both dino and synthetic oil used in it [major brand top tier oils]. It slowed consumption for two buddies I turned onto it. I believe it fills small scuffs and voids as an added unadvertised benefit.

When seeking info get it from people who've actually used the product. Information showing the positives and negatives from users can be very useful. Some people are quick to spout off negative comments from products they've never used because they think they know everything. Good luck, you won't be disappointed.

 

[Turk]

Originally Posted By: panthermike
Reviving an old thread here but thought that it could serve as an update thread for anyone rather than starting a new one.

I've used the LM Mos2 product for 15K miles total and the Corolla is running well as usual. I've decided that I'm going to run 1/2 can every OCI. I feel that the product is beneficial. Also, it would be nice to have feedback on this site from more people with long-term usage of Mos2. So the Corolla will be the "guinea pig".


Alright, guinea pig it is!

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: skunkship
Ceretec which has some Moly, Boron and the secret Ceramic particles from the EU space program.

Are you sure its not gold dust from NASA?