2007 Suzuki SV650S, 2843 miles, Mobil 1 10W-40

[TGE]

A bit of background on this bike: I slowly started turning this 2007 SV650S into a track bike last year, and as a result, a significant amount of track miles are included in this interval. Track duty is rough on an engine, and the high metal counts attest to this. I assume that the slightly low viscosity is due to shearing from the metals.

Based on this UOA, I plan on changing the oil every 3-4 track days, regardless of mileage (usually 80-120 miles per track day). However, I'm wondering if I should be switching to a different brand and/or weight of oil that may be better at handling the heavy wear induced by the track?

Any suggestions or feedback would be appreciated.

 

[abycat]

Your oil looked like it sheared. And the fuel cant help the shearing either. I wonder if a 50 wt would be better. I do agree it doesnt look like the right oil.

I dont think your changing the oil every 12 miles will help too much with the metal. The engine will shed an amount during track time with newer oil or oil with 2000 miles on it. You might be able to go 2000 miles with a differeant oil on the track. Id say try a different oil maybe a 50wt and go a little less on the oci and do another test.

your bike doesnt have many miles on it so i dont know how much of that metal is break in. even the change before that was only 6000. I am curious to hear others replies.

 

[buster]

Doesn't look that good, but I'm not familiar with MC and track UOA's. Mobil 1 is one of the best oils on the market, and has historically been among the most shear stable.

The viscosity drop is not good and wear metals are high. You could always try another oil. RL or Amsoil may hold up better. Hard to tell. Could be the way this particular engine is wearing, and no oil can improve it. Some oils do a better job of keeping a better piston/ring seal.

 

[JAG]

Probably not the best oil choice for MC racing. It's fairly expensive oil and more suited to fairly long OCIs in a car. I'd try something else, probably Red Line 10W-40. Do you know what the oil temps. are while racing?

 

[TGE]

Originally Posted By: JAG
I'd try something else, probably Red Line 10W-40. Do you know what the oil temps. are while racing?

I don't, but the next track day is coming up on 03/31, so I'll be sure to check then and report back. I'll also do some research on Red Line 10W-40 - thanks for the suggestion! Just out of curiosity, is there any specific reason that you suggested that particular brand?

 

[JAG]

All Red Line oils have very high resistance to leaving behind deposits from high temperatures. Most of them do not have any polymeric viscosity index improvers which are what break apart from mechanical stress and cause a reduction in viscosity. 10W-40 Red Line is said to be one of the grades that contain no such polymers. There are other good brands too but considering price and performance, I'd go with RL 10W-40.

 

[sunruh]

to quote Indiana Jones and the last Crusade -> "you chose poorly"

and by that:

1) you chose a 10w40

2) you chose M1

3) you put too many miles on it

4) 1+2+3 = poor choice

ok, now lets really read your uoa.
first, are you really shedding those exotics (chromium, manganese and barium or is that scatter? stoners need to not be so stoned.

the big 3 (Al, Cu, Fe) really arent that bad for what you've done to it. granted you dont want to keep that wear rate at this level, but its not like it exploded on your ankles. the susvis and flash show this sample to be whipped dead. try that fying pan commercial now!!! 385 is a joke.

look to the Maxima & Motul (bit my tongue newest amsoil) in thicker flavors (15w50, 10w50, 20w50) to solve your issues. unless you have sponsors footing the bill.

 

[buster]

Quote:
to quote Indiana Jones and the last Crusade -> "you chose poorly"

and by that:

1) you chose a 10w40

2) you chose M1

3) you put too many miles on it

4) 1+2+3 = poor choice

 

[TGE]

@ JAG: Thanks for the info! I may give RL 10W-40 a try on the next oil change.

@ sunruh: Thanks for the feedback. What can I say, I have Van Gogh's ear for music! A few questions about your comments -

1. 10W-40 is not only the oil recommended by the manufacturer, but it is also the one that is commonly used for 2-4 cylinder roadracing motorcycle engines. Shearing of the oil and lowered viscosity were not really surprising, given the length of the OCI. Would switching to a brand that is known to be more resistant to shearing, while staying with the same weight be ill-advised?

2. I've had numerous very good UOAs on other bikes that also ran Mobil-1 synthetics, and have not been aware of any evidence that this was a sub-par choice. If you could point me to any recommended readings on the subject, I'd greatly appreciate it.

3. The "exotics" you mentioned (Cr, Mn, and Ba) were detected in tiny quantities, and are - to my knowledge - of little relevance. Is there something I'm overlooking here?

Its Monday night indeed!

 

[sunruh]

a1) 10w40 doesnt hold up in a shared sump. more so with track/racing. yes you should pick an oil that could handle that. or switch out that water ever other lap. your choice.

a2) "other bikes" but not THIS bike. thanks for proving my point for me.

i enjoy that a lot. no really i do. all the reading you need to do is in the 1st post (ie yours).

a3) the relevance is that they should not be present at all!!! thus proving their analysis is not 100% accurate. sure it only costs $25 but you are putting you multi-$k motor on the line with the results. is 97% good enough or not?

steve

 

[TGE]

Originally Posted By: sunruh
thanks for proving my point for me.

i enjoy that a lot. no really i do.

lol Steve - thanks for that! Your needless belligerence amuses me.

@ all - I appreciate all of the feedback.

 

[buster]

Quote:
and have not been aware of any evidence that this was a sub-par choice.


It's not. It placed 2nd in Amsoil's White Paper.

 

[KernelK]

Based on the additive chemistry, I don't think this is Mobil's motorcycle oil which placed 2nd in the white paper tests. It is short by approximately 1000 ppm in ZDDP. If indeed it is a 10w-40 grade, I suspect it is the high mileage oil, and it looks a bit weak at that, unless they have recently changed the formula.

 

[TGE]

Originally Posted By: KernelK
If indeed it is a 10w-40 grade, I suspect it is the high mileage oil

You are correct, this is the M-1 10W-40 high mileage oil.

 

[RonH]

The 10W40 Mobil one HM is like $26 for 5qt jug at Walmart, where M1 racing motorcycle oil is $9.99 a qt at Walmart or $49.95 for 5qt if you do the math. Looks like a big difference in both price and quality.

 

[buster]

And it's the old HM oil too.

 

[bacolmm]

A bit of a thread-jack, but since the two oils I'm considering of running (Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w40 and Redline 10w40 Motorcycle Oil) in my 2011 GSXR 750 track bike are mentioned, I'm wondering if anyone can sway me toward one or the other. My preference would be to run Mobil 1 as it cost about 40% less, and is easier to find.

 

[sunruh]

bacolmn,

WELCOME!

and why just pick from those 2?

maybe start a new thread?

steve

 

[Mackelroy]

That is not correct Mobil1 4t is not the same oil, the base oil of 4t is 40 degrees higher on flash point, the Hm mobil1 oil is also an MB rated oil, the M1 4t is an MA oil.

 

[ym42]

Check out my UOA from SV650 2007. At first I was worried when I checked the report but then I saw yours - its somewhat similar. I do not race but kept the oil for a pretty long time. About a year and >5300 miles... Our wear metals are pretty high...

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/6867/qxqp.jpg