Rim leaks,..........Arrgh!!

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My sons's 2002 Grand Am with factory aluminum wheels is experiencing rim leaks at an ever increasing frequency. The single wheel annual demount/clean/remounts are now two wheels every two months.

Is there another solution besides the obvious one of new wheels? And would it be cheaper than new wheels?
 
I hate to say this but fix a flat has done me well with mystery slow leaks.

They say it causes an imbalance, so go easy, maybe 1/2 a can to start with.

If you're sure it's at the bead surface, there's a black goo they can slather on.
 
I think the tire store just wire wheels the rim for prep.

I find that the problem can be permanently fixed if you: remove the tire, sandblast the corrosion off the contact surface, repaint, then remount the tire. I can't see fixing the leak without removing the corrosion. You can quick-fix it like the store does, but you'll be quick-fixing it time and again.

Of course I have the Harbor Freight tire changer and a sandblaster at my disposal.
 
Yeah, I had that issue a long time ago. Nothing fixed it ever without sandblasting or a brand new rim.

It's an issue that's hard to fix.
 
One of my cars is an '89 Mitsubishi Galant with the factory original 22 year old aluminum rims. My rims see aggressive road salt every winter. My tires seal fine, I only have to add air maybe once or twice a year. I have my own tire changing machine. If you want a good seal, here is how I do it.

1. We are starting by removing existing tire from rim.

2. Use drill and wire brush and go around the rim where the bead seats on the inside. If white corrosion is flying off, keep wire brushing. It might take a little while. When you are done blow clean with air.

3. Check valve stem - and likely replace with new. Clean the valve stem hole. You might need to use a screwdriver or something sharp to scrape off all the corrosion and make it like new. If you install a new valve stem without ensuring the hole is free of corrosion, you will have valve stem leaks. Use black "Tire Bead Sealer" to lubricate and seal the valve stem while pulling it through hole.

4. If mounting a new tire, do not do this part. If mounting a used tire, make sure the bead area is clean. If there are rust flakes, or aluminum corrision stuck in the rubber from being previously mounted - clean it. I carefully use my same drill and wire brush and go around the bead area on tire. Obviously, don't go deep, and don't gouge or cut it. The bead on the tire must be perfectly spotless.

5. I use black "Tire Bead Sealer" as a lubricant for mounting the tire. Work quickly, it dries after about a minute.

6. Before inflating, go around the tire bead again with same black "Tire Bead Sealer" and make sure it is all over the bead.

7. Inflate.

I would suggest if you are using tire mounting liquid that will be a problem because it doesn't stop corrosion. If the same mounting liquid is used for the valve stem, same problem. Tire mounting liquid would be okay for brand new rims and tires, but you need something more for older rims.

If you just break the bead and add tire bead sealer without cleaning the tire or rim, it won't seal.

The el-cheapo tire mounting liquid that is mixed with water that most tire shops use is not "tire bead sealer". Tire bead sealer most times comes in a quart size can with a brush under the cap.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I think the tire store just wire wheels the rim for prep.

I find that the problem can be permanently fixed if you: remove the tire, sandblast the corrosion off the contact surface, repaint, then remount the tire. I can't see fixing the leak without removing the corrosion. You can quick-fix it like the store does, but you'll be quick-fixing it time and again.

Of course I have the Harbor Freight tire changer and a sandblaster at my disposal.



Yeah, that would work.
 
Had the problem too. I took the tire off the rim one at a time. Installed the wheel on the car while lifted. Then I put the car in gear and used a die grinder with a Scotch Brite wheel till all black stuff, white powder and any pitting is gone. You have to be very careful when doing this. Keep in mind the tool could catch. Also use plenty of wheel chock and never work under the car. Afterwards, paint it. I have done this on other cars and never had to redo it or have any leaks. I have pictures though I don't have any online photo sharing accounts so I could not attach. I could email though.
 
I know this thread is very old, but I experienced the same type of issue recently on my 08' Cadillac CTS. I was continually getting a low tire pressure signal and finding my pressure low every few weeks. I ended up finding a local business in Pontiac, MI. Baker's Wheel Repair, its part of Baker's ALignment (I ended up finding it online bakerswheelrepair.com), they actually have a way to fix bent wheels and stop rim leaks. I ended up having one rim leak fixed and on the CTS and also had a bent wheel on an old Buick that we only drive in the winter. I think I paid about $100 per wheel, which is much less expensive than a new wheel, I looked into a new wheel for the CTS, but it was about $800... I'll take the $100 fix.

I was happy with the service and quick turnaround, the owner told me that if the wheel couldnt be fixed, he can also get refurbushed wheels for much less than a new wheel.

I thought I would mention it since someone else that posted is from MI.
 
Lots of good suggestions in this thread. I went through this with my '88 Cherokee. Given what I had available to me, the options were to take the OEM rims to a wheel refinisher or purchase new rims. Wheel refinishing at the time was only about $25 dollars a rim cheaper than what I ended up doing, which was buying some Mopar rims for a TJ.

Tire shop looked at like I was from mars when I suggested that just wire wheeling it wasn't cutting it any more.
 
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