Anyone use it? Is ester all that it's cracked up to be?
Yamalube 15w50 synthetic with ester
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I use Mobil1 15/50, and leave Ester at home! ;-)
The ad pack I have seen in a Yamalube analysis looked pretty weak. Id use something else. The Yamalube is overpriced for what you go IMHO. Looks not much better than a PCMO.
I've never used it but I can tell you that the Yamaha Superbike team told me at Mid-Ohio that this is the oil they use. Don't recall what viscosity and they could have been pulling my leg but that is what they said. IIRC they were the only team that claimed to be running a factory oil and I asked all of them.
Yeah, many teams run Motul with ester.
I did not like it in my FZ6. It worked great for 2000 miles, then shifting became very difficult when hot. Getting first gear became so bad that I had to come to a complete stop, shift to neutral, then go to first. I could not get first rolling up to a stop. Not impressed for $17 a quart. Repsol, Amsoil and Rotella T synthetic have all worked much, much better and retained excellent shift quality through out my 4000-6000 mile OCI's (usually the season).
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
I did not like it in my FZ6. It worked great for 2000 miles, then shifting became very difficult when hot. Getting first gear became so bad that I had to come to a complete stop, shift to neutral, then go to first. I could not get first rolling up to a stop. Not impressed for $17 a quart. Repsol, Amsoil and Rotella T synthetic have all worked much, much better and retained excellent shift quality through out my 4000-6000 mile OCI's (usually the season).
What is this thing with shift quality? There are so many factors that affect shifting effort, how can anyone tell what the oil affects and all the other factors? Clutch play, oil temp, trans gear loading, engine speed? Why does everyone think that oil alone determines shifting quality?
Another urban motorcycle myth.....
I did not like it in my FZ6. It worked great for 2000 miles, then shifting became very difficult when hot. Getting first gear became so bad that I had to come to a complete stop, shift to neutral, then go to first. I could not get first rolling up to a stop. Not impressed for $17 a quart. Repsol, Amsoil and Rotella T synthetic have all worked much, much better and retained excellent shift quality through out my 4000-6000 mile OCI's (usually the season).
What is this thing with shift quality? There are so many factors that affect shifting effort, how can anyone tell what the oil affects and all the other factors? Clutch play, oil temp, trans gear loading, engine speed? Why does everyone think that oil alone determines shifting quality?
Another urban motorcycle myth.....
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
I did not like it in my FZ6. It worked great for 2000 miles, then shifting became very difficult when hot. Getting first gear became so bad that I had to come to a complete stop, shift to neutral, then go to first. I could not get first rolling up to a stop. Not impressed for $17 a quart. Repsol, Amsoil and Rotella T synthetic have all worked much, much better and retained excellent shift quality through out my 4000-6000 mile OCI's (usually the season).
What is this thing with shift quality? There are so many factors that affect shifting effort, how can anyone tell what the oil affects and all the other factors? Clutch play, oil temp, trans gear loading, engine speed? Why does everyone think that oil alone determines shifting quality?
Another urban motorcycle myth.....
Uh, my experience does not concur with the myth you state. Oil does make a difference, just the way different ATF can affect how a automatic shifts. Different oils stay in grade better than others, this affects shift quality and clutch operation. Some oils thicken, some oils thin, this all make noticeable changes in operation. It is not just in my head either. The FZ6 is known to have a somewhat recalcitrant gearbox. A good syn HDEO or other syn motorcycle oil makes it more livable. Go browse the FZ6 forums, the clunky, stubborn, notch gearbox is one of the bikes biggest gripes. RTS, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 seem to be the best cure.
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
I did not like it in my FZ6. It worked great for 2000 miles, then shifting became very difficult when hot. Getting first gear became so bad that I had to come to a complete stop, shift to neutral, then go to first. I could not get first rolling up to a stop. Not impressed for $17 a quart. Repsol, Amsoil and Rotella T synthetic have all worked much, much better and retained excellent shift quality through out my 4000-6000 mile OCI's (usually the season).
What is this thing with shift quality? There are so many factors that affect shifting effort, how can anyone tell what the oil affects and all the other factors? Clutch play, oil temp, trans gear loading, engine speed? Why does everyone think that oil alone determines shifting quality?
Another urban motorcycle myth.....
Uh, my experience does not concur with the myth you state. Oil does make a difference, just the way different ATF can affect how a automatic shifts. Different oils stay in grade better than others, this affects shift quality and clutch operation. Some oils thicken, some oils thin, this all make noticeable changes in operation. It is not just in my head either. The FZ6 is known to have a somewhat recalcitrant gearbox. A good syn HDEO or other syn motorcycle oil makes it more livable. Go browse the FZ6 forums, the clunky, stubborn, notch gearbox is one of the bikes biggest gripes. RTS, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 seem to be the best cure.
Anybody know who makes Yamalube synth w/ ester oils for them?
"Anybody know who makes Yamalube synth w/ ester oils for them?"
not sure, but my local dealer (also sells Honda & Suzuki) sells it for $14 + per quart & has a hard time keeping it in stock; I guess the 'brand specific' buyers gobble it up;
I was able to get some closeout Mobil 1 15w-50 @ my local K-Mart fort $7 per quart so I snagged it for my Buell Blast; I am hoping to explore another K-mart and find some more...
not sure, but my local dealer (also sells Honda & Suzuki) sells it for $14 + per quart & has a hard time keeping it in stock; I guess the 'brand specific' buyers gobble it up;
I was able to get some closeout Mobil 1 15w-50 @ my local K-Mart fort $7 per quart so I snagged it for my Buell Blast; I am hoping to explore another K-mart and find some more...
Quote Yamalube catalog:
"High levels of phosphorus have been shown to damage oxygen sensors
and poison catalytic converters. Yamalube formulas feature up to 600
fewer parts per million (ppm) of phosphorus than some competitors and
are 400 ppm lower than JASO MA maximum".
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/Yamalube/2010_Yamalube_Catalog.pdf
"High levels of phosphorus have been shown to damage oxygen sensors
and poison catalytic converters. Yamalube formulas feature up to 600
fewer parts per million (ppm) of phosphorus than some competitors and
are 400 ppm lower than JASO MA maximum".
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/Yamalube/2010_Yamalube_Catalog.pdf
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
Go browse the FZ6 forums, the clunky, stubborn, notch gearbox is one of the bikes biggest gripes. RTS, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 seem to be the best cure.
When my customers complain about shifting the first thing to
eliminate is the possibility of clutch drag
So here's my method to check your clutch for drag... your
gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...
1 Place your bike on the center stand...
2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...
3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...
4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???
If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...
Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
I think we are after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting
the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or
throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot
quicker... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its early
form of seem-less shifting...
Go browse the FZ6 forums, the clunky, stubborn, notch gearbox is one of the bikes biggest gripes. RTS, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 seem to be the best cure.
When my customers complain about shifting the first thing to
eliminate is the possibility of clutch drag
So here's my method to check your clutch for drag... your
gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...
1 Place your bike on the center stand...
2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...
3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...
4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???
If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...
Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
I think we are after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting
the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or
throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot
quicker... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its early
form of seem-less shifting...
Originally Posted By: cven
I've never used it but I can tell you that the Yamaha Superbike team told me at Mid-Ohio that this is the oil they use. Don't recall what viscosity
To reduce parasitic drag and to lower engine temps during the
rigors of racing Team Yamaha employs a 15W-30 Racing Full
Synthetic with Ester... I believe no team employs anything
thicker because it cost them precious HP...
Quote Yamaha
15W-30 Racing Full Synthetic with Ester
This Full Synthetic Race oil is used by the Yamalube
sponsored Race teams on the road courses or in the dirt,
fortified with the highest amount of Ester, Exceeds Jaso MA
certification, provides smooth shifting, no clutch slippage
and quick revving
I've never used it but I can tell you that the Yamaha Superbike team told me at Mid-Ohio that this is the oil they use. Don't recall what viscosity
To reduce parasitic drag and to lower engine temps during the
rigors of racing Team Yamaha employs a 15W-30 Racing Full
Synthetic with Ester... I believe no team employs anything
thicker because it cost them precious HP...
Quote Yamaha
15W-30 Racing Full Synthetic with Ester
This Full Synthetic Race oil is used by the Yamalube
sponsored Race teams on the road courses or in the dirt,
fortified with the highest amount of Ester, Exceeds Jaso MA
certification, provides smooth shifting, no clutch slippage
and quick revving
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