Shell Rotella T

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Hello,

This is my first post on the site, well second since I posted in the gasoline section. I have been seriously reading about things on here for over a week. It has become such an addiction! I have learned more about oil, and how it effects engines, than I thought I could ever learn. So, I thought it was a good time to join, so I could ask some questions?

I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler with the 4.0 inline 6. 145,000 Miles. My brother has a 2007 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited. 100,000 miles. I have been reading a lot on the Shell Rotella Triple protection, and Rotella T5. My question is, what are users experiences with these in gasoline engines, and would these oils work in my vehicle applications? We do a mix of small highway driving, and a decent amount of stop and go since I am from Hawaii. My brother is from Ohio, so it does get cold in the winter, and warm in the summer. Hawaii gets to about 60 in the winter, and 100 in the summer. I am looking for an oil to clean, and help keep my motor running a long time to come. I am not really into synthetic, and I do not want to start any kind of war on here. Just want to meet new people, and have good conversation. So, if you could help me, and have had experience with this oil in these vehicles please chime in with info! I really appreciate your time. Looking forward to hearing from all of you,

Christopher
 
first off welcome to BITOG
i would and do use 5w30 dino (any name brand) in the winter and 10w30 hm in the summer and my engine runs great. One thing you have to watch on that engine is cracking heads. We are engine rebuilders and see a lot of that.
I would not use a diesel oil it may ruin your cat
 
I'm running the rotella T5 10w30 at the moment and it's working fine for me. In Hawaii it shouldn't be an issue, for your 4.0L.

The 2007 jeep wrangler calls for 5w20 and i would stick to that. Quaker state is usually pretty good and affordable.
 
Knox,

I am aware of the cracked/warped heads. I just picked up a dual core solid aluminum radiator. Griffin, made in the USA! Hopefully that will keep her nice and cool.

As, for the oil on the 2007, I have heard some people stating, that the 5w20 was just for the gas mileage. I have read an article or two of people using 10w30 in the 3.8, and Shell Rotella T. I was just trying to collect more information from maybe some other users. Thank you for your reply!
 
Welcome to the site, Christopher.

You really don't tell us much about your OCIs, so I'll presume you're going to stick with "normal" OEM OCIs. We do know that your driving pattern is very "normal"; know nothing of your brother's.

I would recommend using a decent 5w-30 or 10w-30 PCMO for your application in HI; choose any brand you can find on sale that is a quality name you would recognize. I don't see any justification for the HDEO in your situation, nor your brother's (given what you've told us). There is nothing magical about the use of HDEOs in gasser engines. There is nothing "wrong" with using an HDEO, but there is nothing really speacial to it either, given what you've gold us.

If you look over some of the UOAs we have here, you can see that HDEOs do a great job, but they are really no "better" in gasser applications that good quality PCMOs.

One of the more logical reasons to run an HDEO in a gasser engine is when one has a mixed fleet, and can commonize the oils to one choice, thereby reducing shelf stock at home. Jim Allen and I do this; he uses T5 and I use Tripple Protection, both in 10w-30. We have diesels, gassers and air-cooled equipment; all serviced by one oil. I'll not go out on a limb and speak for him though; that's up to him as to "why" he does it. But I have discovered that using a properly spec'd fluid in most applications makes little difference; the convenience outweighs the miniscule risks. One can spend hours of fretting and hundreds of dollars seeking the "perfect" oil for an application, but the reality is that in about 99%+ of uses, staying in or near grade with a properly spec'd fluid will result in no statistical shift in performance worth noting in regard to wear protection and cleanliness, etc.

Similarly, small grade shifts generally result in no harm either. Moving from a 5w-20 to 10w-30 in a warm climate really is no risk at all (except perhaps from a warranty perspective). But large shifts such as going from a 5w-20 to a 20w-50 (the old thicker-is-better mantra) are often not "optimum" because such a large deviation may result in slower pressure build up and/or reduced flow in critically tight paths, etc. Each situation must be viewed in context though; it's not a one-size-fits-all answer.

In short, there is no "best" oil. But there are often many lubes that are good for any particular application. You can certainly use an HDEO in your situation, but it's not going to "save" your engine from any lurking impending doom, nor drive it forward into destruction any quicker, than a decent PCMO.
 
dnewton,

Thank you for the awesome response, and taking the time to type all of that. So, I could run the Rotella Triple protection in 10w30 in my truck, and be okay? Now, my brothers Jeep factory specks are 5w20. So, does this heavy 10w30 pose an issue? How about the 5w40 application in these Jeeps? I do not want to run into an issue of "sluggishness" per-se. I am looking to keep my brands of the same to keep things easy. I am just looking to keep the truck running a long time. My brother and I are both meticulous with maintenance, and usually follow the 3,000 OCI. However, I wouldn't mind drawing them out a bit. Can these Rotella Oils do that? Lastly, how does the Delo 400LE compare to the Rotella brand? Pretty much the same I take it?

Thanks again
 
I'm not intimately familiar with the particular OEM plans for the 4.0L engines, but it's my understanding they are decent engines.

If you follow the OEM OCI plan, just about any decent motor oil is going to do a fine job. IIRC, the 4.0L I-6 was designed with a 30 grade in mind, so using a 20 grade or a 40 grade isn't too much of a stretch. However, using a 40 grade will result in some loss of fuel economy; it's often marginal and difficult to distinguish. But if one moves from 20 to 40, there likely will be a tangible difference over the long haul.

The number one thing that will make your vehicles last is ......
solid maintenance. And you're already doing that.

I always encourange anyone that is under warranty to follow those conditions. And, even after warranty, those OEM guidelines are a great place to start. If you want to "tweak" the lube experience, then start getting some UOAs and monitoring your results. It's expensive to do it right, and it takes a long time to establish decent trending for any particular brand/grade.

Otherwise, just pick a decent PCMO and you'll both be fine. Don't overthink this topic, as many do.
 
Anyone have experience with Rotella in the Chrysler 3.8, that is in the newer Jeeps?

@84zmyfavorite, are you noticing any "sluggishness" with the Rotella in your Jeep?

Thanks to everyone for the help! It means a lot
 
after many year research and debate about oil for jeep 4.0l. My conclusion is any brand name oil 10w30/ 10w40 will make that jeep happy. No need for desiel oil. Im currently running mobil super 5000 10w40 and pure 1 oil filter.

and about zddp some say require on these flat tap engine, its require on flat tap engine, BUT NOT THE 4.0l JEEP.
 
I know it the question was directed towards, 84z, but i haven't personally noticed much of a difference running rotella 10w30 compared to pcmo 10w30.

FYI: The 2.5L is a shortened 4.0L.
 
My 1987 Black Jeep Cherokees 4.0 has 294,411 miles on her Original everything, so Yes, She does feel a bit sluggish at times. Those times She feels sluggish are sometimes after I have driven my 96 Cherokee with a High Output 4.0 and the AX15 5 speed. That Jeep does have 249,??? miles on her original everything also, well a New clutch a couple months old now, and Also has Shell Rotella T1 HD30 with maby 1 top-off of 1/2 quart at most in over 5,000 miles. This motor dosent feel sluggish. My Red 99s 4.0 with 140,426 miles has been run on Pennzoil HD30 before, but currently has Pennzoil 10w-30. This motor is in front of the AW-4 auto that puts power to only one differential, the rear. This Jeep has Never felt sluggish, either, and in Fact (edit - mod). My 2001 SilverStone Metallic Cherokees 4.0 with 64,820 miles currently has Quaker State 10w-40, and hasnt ever had anything but 10w-30 and 10w-40 weight oil in her sump. She hasnt ever felt sluggish. Now my Gud Ol Brown 1984 Cherokees GM 2.8V6 DOES feel sluggish most all the time. With 252,215 miles on Her Original Everything, I Fully expect Her to feel a bit sluggish, and am actually very surprised She even runs and drives. The Briggs&Stratton, I mean GM 2.8V6 with 252,15 miles?! Chrysler 904 3 speed auto?!! NP229 Full Time transfer-case?!!! Dana 35 rear end pushing 31" tires forever?!!! Pretty Good, Huh?
 
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84,

That is mighty impressive. I have 145,000 miles on my 4.0. Original everything. Valve cover is leaking a little, and oil pan gasket. I am about to change all of that though. Previous owner ran all Amsoil products "Signature Series," and the new EAO Filters. He was a rep. So, I at least know it was taken care of by him. Drives super nice, and super quiet. I have heard great stuff about Rotella. I do not know much about Pennzoil products, but people have been talking good about them. I have been torn between the Pennzoil products, and Valvoline. Still haven't made up my mind. Ha, it may never end.
 
in my jeep 4.0 I have run everything from Valvoline durablend 5w-30 to Mobil 1 TDT 5w-40. I have noticed no difference in MPGs or power.

I like to run an oil with a bit extra ZDDP only because it makes me feel better since it does not cost any extra.
for your conditions in Hawaii any of the rotallas will work (t3,t5,t6)

you could also look into a new oil call Quaker Sate "defy" its a PCMO that supposed to have an extra bit of ZDDP. Thats what Im going to use next and I see alot of guys planning to run them in their 4.0s
 
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I am leaning towards NextGen Maxlife. I like the idea of the recycled oil, and not for one seconds am I concerned about it. Been reading some things lately about SOPUS, and their business ethics, and I am not too fond of them. But, I choose not to start any debate on that one.

Thanks for the reply brother!
 
I have Rotella T6 in my 2.5L and it likes it like any other. It has high miles and a heavy varnish build up, which is why I'm using it. But with a clean engine just stick with an affordable 10-30.
 
if you don't like Sopus and still want a HD oil then try Mobil 1 TDT, i have used it and it works good from what I can tell. Also Mobil 1 0w-40 has extra zddp and it supposed to be a very good oil. Im going to run a UOA of 0w-40 in a few weeks thats in my 4.0 right now. Im excited to see the results, i haven't found any UOAs of ow-40 in jeep 4.0s yet.
 
I use Rotella T6 because it is sold at a good price locally in 4 quart jugs and is a good oil. In a mild climate you don't need to be as concerned with 0w vs 5w vs 10w. I would take a look at the max air temp your vehicle is going to see and what your manual says to use to protect the engine in that temp range.
 
Originally Posted By: MrRPM
if you don't like Sopus and still want a HD oil then try Mobil 1 TDT, i have used it and it works good from what I can tell. Also Mobil 1 0w-40 has extra zddp and it supposed to be a very good oil. Im going to run a UOA of 0w-40 in a few weeks thats in my 4.0 right now. Im excited to see the results, i haven't found any UOAs of ow-40 in jeep 4.0s yet.


That would be interesting, other UOA's of Mobil in Jeep 4.0's haven't been very good but the 0w40 is supposed to be a different breed of cat. I'll be looking forward to that one.
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