Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner?

[nthach]

I can't seem to get a hold of some GM Top Engine Cleaner, but I was able to find a few aerosol cans of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. I want to decarbonize a 2005 Toyota Sienna, but the car has a plastic/nylon upper intake and DBW throttle.

The DBW part I have figured out - have someone lightly press the throttle down in the car. But I'm afraid the cleaner may have bad effects on the plastics - is it OK to use it, or should I use FP or Neutra 131 instead via the fuel system?

 

[KA426]

A 2005 Toyota shouldn't have a carbon build-up problem. I'd run a tankfull of Shell V-Power through it and that should clean any deposits off of the valves and combustion chambers.

 

[Quest]

If you are careful about your driving habits, engine servicing and maintenance, almost all modern EFI engines of OBD-II variety shall not need have any carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, so no need for cleaners.

Old habits die hard: unless you are doing frequent, or lack of proper maintenance and/or thermostat is in questionable state and/or O2 sensor is bad (cannot enter closed loop mode) and/or EGR sensor is bad,

or your car is of carb'ed variety, otherwise, ordinary high detergency gasoline and regular highway trips (anything that takes more than 30miles or more per trip) shall keep the combustion chamber clean enough already.

Q.

 

[JAG]

Originally Posted By: Quest
If you are careful about your driving habits, engine servicing and maintenance, almost all modern EFI engines of OBD-II variety shall not need have any carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, so no need for cleaners.
That is overly optimistic. If you are not aware of carbon buildup in any engines meeting the above criteria, it could be that they exist but you are unaware of them. My GTI is just one example of one meeting the above criteria which went through a period of having slightly excessive amounts of carbon on the piston tops. Changing from oils that allowed some oil consumption to one that reduced consumption considerably reduced the amount of carbon on the piston tops significantly.

 

[Big Jim]

Originally Posted By: Quest
If you are careful about your driving habits, engine servicing and maintenance, almost all modern EFI engines of OBD-II variety shall not need have any carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, so no need for cleaners.

Old habits die hard: unless you are doing frequent, or lack of proper maintenance and/or thermostat is in questionable state and/or O2 sensor is bad (cannot enter closed loop mode) and/or EGR sensor is bad,

or your car is of carb'ed variety, otherwise, ordinary high detergency gasoline and regular highway trips (anything that takes more than 30miles or more per trip) shall keep the combustion chamber clean enough already.

Q.


Those comments don't match my experience. Fuel injected cars (OBD 1, OBD 2, Lambda, Bosch, EEC, or any of them still carbon up.

I have never had any problem using the Ford, GM or Mopar combustion chamber cleaner on engines with plastic intake manifolds.

 

[mechtech2]

Use distilled water in a vacuum line to the intake manifold, and keep her running around 2,000 RPM as you trickle it in there.
Safe and it works well.
But do you really need to clean the CCs? Of what?

 

[Jax_RX8]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Use distilled water in a vacuum line to the intake manifold, and keep her running around 2,000 RPM as you trickle it in there.
Safe and it works well.
But do you really need to clean the CCs? Of what?


Carbon buildup can do two primary things:

- It causes a hot spots on top of the piston which contributes to knocking, or pre-ignition, requiring higher octane gas to prevent - the carbon itself superheats, causing this issue

- It reduces the total volume of the combustion chamber, slightly increasing compression, putting more stress on internal components from the higher compression, increasing the risk of knocking (higher compression needs higher octane to prevent knocking)

Keeping the CC as clean as possible, keeps things operating the ways they were designed.

 

[Rabbler]

I find carbon buildup is lessened since the demise of the carburetor but is still problematic.
Certain engine and fuel systems are less prone than others though.
Just about anything GM produced seems to have carbon buildup issues.

As a side benefit combustion chamber cleaners also clean off deposits from the spark plugs lowering the firing voltage, hence the "tune up in a can" nick name.

I can't say I'm a fan of the water injection treatment though.
It does work but I think you're shocking the engine to get the carbon off. I prefer to let the solution soak for several hours to soften the deposits vs shock them off.
Water is certainly cheaper though

 

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: Rabbler
I can't say I'm a fan of the water injection treatment though.
It does work but I think you're shocking the engine to get the carbon off.


I've done cold water with little effect, and hot water with great effect. The tops of my pistons are nearly completely clean now.

 

[Dupree]

The Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner is great stuff. I have used it on many many different vehicles, you'll be fine. get her warmed up. Spray it in while keeping it running (find the throttle under the hood and feather it as spraying). Spray the whole can in as fast as you can. Shut it off immediately and let sit for 15-20 minutes. Then start it and drive it like you stole it for 15-20 minutes. Oh yeah prepare for some smoke.......I like to do it right before an oil change.....

 

[Vikas]

Mopar CCC is hard to get. Anybody have experience with Valsper Renew Combustion Chamber Cleaner?

Directions from the back of the can;

"Remove air cleaner, run engine to normal temperature. If equipped, disconnect air pump. Spray all linkage controls to insure against sticking. With engine running at medium idle (750 RPM) spray entire contents of can directly into throttle body. Keep engine running just fast enough to prevent stalling. Avoid excessive engine speed. When can is empty, turn off engine and let stand 5 to 10 minutes. Restart and run engine at low speed for 5 minutes to completely expel combustion chamber conditioner. Reconnect air pump hose to engine, if so equipped. "

- Vikas

 

[rjacket]

That's almost a 4 year old thread that you've resurrected!

 

[ltslimjim]

Just order Amsoil's Power Foam instead.

Always let soak at least 1 hour, 2 hours preferably, JMO. Hood closed/mid-day a plus.

 

[Boss302fan]

I would not think that this Toyota would have much carbon buildup unless you have been using off brand gas.

I would use a full bottle of Redline SI-1 in a full tank and run it low and see how it performs. May have to do a second bottle/tank to get great results if by chance your engine is really carboned up. I have done this in a few vehicles that had carbon in the heads and it worked well.

Amsoil is also a good product but I would try the Redline first.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: rjacket
That's almost a 4 year old thread that you've resurrected!


So? You expected me to create a new topic for it? I don't think that would have been a good idea!

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Originally Posted By: rjacket
That's almost a 4 year old thread that you've resurrected!


So? You expected me to create a new topic for it? I don't think that would have been a good idea!


1. Don't search, and you are chastised.
2. Search, and you are chastised.
You were considerate and thoughtful.

 

[Trav]

Never owned a Cadillac N* i guess.

OP. The Mopar stuff is good and wont bother the type of plastics used in the plenum.

 

[Vikas]

I am suspecting Valsper makes the Mopar and GM CCC given neither Mopar or GM have their own chemical factories. At least today this is the only combustion chamber cleaner available for purchase over the internet. I will spray it on the plastic cap and wait until it does NOT melt Seriously, are there any plastic parts in the intake path of a 99 Camry?

 

[ltslimjim]

^You can buy Amsoil Power Foam, bigger can.

 

[TheTanSedan]

MOPAR CCC

It's what you use prior to a water drip & Mola-Soke (then an OFL and plug change).

Great on my V8-383 for many years (among other gassers once owned).