Mobil 1 0w40 is perfect for this car!
ARCOgraphite said:Time to run a real synthetic not a pathetic fake syntheticThat Fuel # looks nasty. Maybe go the WRX/STI route with RTS5w40. No use killing a $$$ RL530 or Ams ATM or M1R4T with that fuel. I can read the report when I hit + in a normal browser.
That said, why on earth this little Mazda NEEDS expensive synthetic oil is beyond me
Well, I think it's fair to say that the consensus on BITOG has been that this turbocharged, DI engine is one of the hardest on oil in the auto universe. Therefore, conventional wisdom has been it is the poster child for all the advantages offered by synthetic oils. There have been a number of owners who have specifically settled on PP as the best choice for this application. And perhaps it is, but...
The way I use it, which includes twice daily four mile commutes to and from work (four trips) appears to exacerbate its worst characteristic which apparently is fuel dilution that occurs during cold startup. Everyone seems to think that taking it out on the highway for several miles burns the fuel out of the oil. First, with premium gas already over $4, I'm not taking any unnecessary trips anywhere. Two, I challenge the board to offer some proof that this technique actually improves (returns) the condition of the oil to that which it was prior to dilution.
OK, so I'm not changing and the car's not changing, so what to do? Mazda's recent SSP on smoking turbos seems to blame oil viscosity below 5W-30 which this little engine seems intent on self-producing. It seems (at least with the way I use it), that any consideration of extended OCIs is out. If this is so and therefore the top priority is keeping fresh, undiluted oil in the crankcase, why not just stick with 3000 OCIs? This is twice per year for my usage, so it's not a terrible burden. So, which oil? Will any conventional do? PYB seemed to work just fine for the first 18,800 miles, although I have no UOA to compare. Or, is this application so severe, I should continue to use synthetic to prevent even worse damage to the oil? What about grade? One poster suggested 0W-40 which makes sense with the logic that it would remain above 30 wt specs longer than one that starts out at that level. What about conventional 5W-40?
As you all can tell, between this UOA and Mazda's SSP, I'm a little concerned. I'd like this car to last for a while. It's a blast to drive and I want to do the best I can to make the engine and turbo last. Right now, my shelves are full of PP and M1 5W-30 which I had planned to use as it is the recommended grade as well as HTO-06 approved (can't hurt, right?) What would you do?