PP 5W-30, 3350 miles, Mazdaspeed3 NEED COMMENTS

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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Right before the change, the car was driven 10-12 miles of stop and go errands. I figure why not look at the oil as it's normally used instead of creating some artificial condition? There's no question the engine was hot for several minutes before it was driven onto the ramps.

How many times was it cranked during that period? Cranking could introduce excess fuel. It's not just how hot the engine was for how long but also how long it was driven after it was cranked last time.

I probably made three stops in that distance. Let me ask you a question: Let's say I take it for a 20-30 mile highway run right before the OC. What's the Fuel%? how much lower is it than the measured 2.8? Does the viscosity recover or has it been permanently damaged?
 
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Does someone have the 20 weight ranges for the viscosity tests measured? I'd like to see where the measured values fall within that range.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Time to run a real synthetic not a pathetic fake synthetic
smile.gif
That Fuel # looks nasty. Maybe go the WRX/STI route with RTS5w40. No use killing a $$$ RL530 or Ams ATM or M1R4T with that fuel. I can read the report when I hit + in a normal browser.



Pathetic fake Synthetic? our beloved PP? Well I never!
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Time to run a real synthetic not a pathetic fake synthetic
smile.gif
That Fuel # looks nasty. Maybe go the WRX/STI route with RTS5w40. No use killing a $$$ RL530 or Ams ATM or M1R4T with that fuel. I can read the report when I hit + in a normal browser.



Pathetic fake Synthetic? our beloved PP? Well I never!
grin.gif



I thought the same thing but in reality, he's right. PP isn't a REAL synthetic.

That said, why on earth this little Mazda NEEDS expensive synthetic oil is beyond me
33.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: lexus114
ARCOgraphite said:
Time to run a real synthetic not a pathetic fake synthetic
smile.gif
That Fuel # looks nasty. Maybe go the WRX/STI route with RTS5w40. No use killing a $$$ RL530 or Ams ATM or M1R4T with that fuel. I can read the report when I hit + in a normal browser.


That said, why on earth this little Mazda NEEDS expensive synthetic oil is beyond me
33.gif



Well, I think it's fair to say that the consensus on BITOG has been that this turbocharged, DI engine is one of the hardest on oil in the auto universe. Therefore, conventional wisdom has been it is the poster child for all the advantages offered by synthetic oils. There have been a number of owners who have specifically settled on PP as the best choice for this application. And perhaps it is, but...

The way I use it, which includes twice daily four mile commutes to and from work (four trips) appears to exacerbate its worst characteristic which apparently is fuel dilution that occurs during cold startup. Everyone seems to think that taking it out on the highway for several miles burns the fuel out of the oil. First, with premium gas already over $4, I'm not taking any unnecessary trips anywhere. Two, I challenge the board to offer some proof that this technique actually improves (returns) the condition of the oil to that which it was prior to dilution.

OK, so I'm not changing and the car's not changing, so what to do? Mazda's recent SSP on smoking turbos seems to blame oil viscosity below 5W-30 which this little engine seems intent on self-producing. It seems (at least with the way I use it), that any consideration of extended OCIs is out. If this is so and therefore the top priority is keeping fresh, undiluted oil in the crankcase, why not just stick with 3000 OCIs? This is twice per year for my usage, so it's not a terrible burden. So, which oil? Will any conventional do? PYB seemed to work just fine for the first 18,800 miles, although I have no UOA to compare. Or, is this application so severe, I should continue to use synthetic to prevent even worse damage to the oil? What about grade? One poster suggested 0W-40 which makes sense with the logic that it would remain above 30 wt specs longer than one that starts out at that level. What about conventional 5W-40?

As you all can tell, between this UOA and Mazda's SSP, I'm a little concerned. I'd like this car to last for a while. It's a blast to drive and I want to do the best I can to make the engine and turbo last. Right now, my shelves are full of PP and M1 5W-30 which I had planned to use as it is the recommended grade as well as HTO-06 approved (can't hurt, right?) What would you do?
 
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Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Can you post or link us to the Mazda bulletin?
I don't think they like us to post links to other sites so if you just google 'Mazda SSP 86' you'll get there.
 
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Right before the change, the car was driven 10-12 miles of stop and go errands. I figure why not look at the oil as it's normally used instead of creating some artificial condition? There's no question the engine was hot for several minutes before it was driven onto the ramps.

How many times was it cranked during that period? Cranking could introduce excess fuel. It's not just how hot the engine was for how long but also how long it was driven after it was cranked last time.

I probably made three stops in that distance. Let me ask you a question: Let's say I take it for a 20-30 mile highway run right before the OC. What's the Fuel%? how much lower is it than the measured 2.8? Does the viscosity recover or has it been permanently damaged?


Hasn't worked for me. I do a lot of short-tripping during the week, back and forth to work, but drive a couple of hours on the highway every other weekend. I've changed the oil a day or two after a long highway trip and the fuel was still high. I'm sure it volatilized while on the highway, but diluted again as soon as I cold-started and drove to work the next day. That's my guess, at least.
 
Hi Indydriver,

I don't see a problem with this UOA. Yes you've got fuel dilution but it's not excessive to the point of adverse engine wear.
The oil you're running is a good choice for you're application since as you mentioned it does meet the HTO-06 spec'.

Although the oil would appear to be good for a longer OCI I'd stick to the rather short OCI as recommended by Mazda in light of the fuel dilution.

You have a lot of this oil in your stash so continue to use it without concern. Having said that, I would try to modify your driving behaviour if possible to minimize the fuel dilution. Avoid short trips, don't lug the engine (wide open throttle at low rev's) and try a long run if you do subjected the engine to a period of short trips.
 
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