Mobil 1 0w40, 4000 Miles, 2011 Golf 2.5L

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Changed the factory fill @1750 and this is my second run with 4000 miles on the oil. Looks pretty good to me, but any feedback is appreciated. The oil didn't hit operating temp when the sample was taken. Driving is all pretty short trips (3-8 miles) but I am easy on the car always since it rarely hits full operating temps. Comments from Blackstone were what you'd expect to read. Saying everything looked good for a 2nd oil change on a new engine and the TBN was strong at 6.5. Was told to go 6k for my next change.

And sorry for the lousy upload. I took a pic of the report since I never received an email attachment yet.

857e02f9.jpg
 
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Down to a 30-grade, but that's not really an issue, IMO.

Was this M1 API SM or SN? Not sure that there was any difference between the two...
 
I want to say SN. I only checked the last quart that i didn't throw out since there was some oil left and it was rated SN.
 
What is the factory recommended oil change interval? If it is 7,500 miles, I would start there.... you are throwing away good oil at 4,000 miles and almost certainly at 6,000 miles too, with all due respect to Blackstone!
 
Used to be 5k, 6mo's but when VW introduced the Free Care Maintenance it jumped to 10k, 12 mos. Since I am mainly short tripping I try to always change the oil every 6 mo's.
 
IMO....Anyway you can substitue the M1 for a great quality conventional for the first 20K?

IMO...All you need is a great quality dino, that meets the spec for your VW, till you get the engine broke in and the garbage out of the sump.

There has got to be a few that you could use for short OCI's on your VW?
 
Not sure of too many that meet the VW spec. Castrol 5w40, 0w30, PU 5w40, and M1 0w,40 are all that come to mind.

I am okay with spending the $29.99 for the 5qts of M1 when it goes on sale and changing it every 6 months.
 
Originally Posted By: jigen
Not sure of too many that meet the VW spec. Castrol 5w40, 0w30, PU 5w40, and M1 0w,40 are all that come to mind.

I am okay with spending the $29.99 for the 5qts of M1 when it goes on sale and changing it every 6 months.


Makes sense. I see no reason to use dino oil. If you're trying to save that $10 per OC, why stop after break-in? Keep on using cheap dino oil and short OCIs for the life of the car. Save $10 per OC and have a super clean engine thanks to short OCIs....

If we all do that, is there really a NEED for synthetic oil and long OCIs?
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OP, keep doing what you're doing with the M1. Based on these results, your driving style isn't THAT hard on the oil and you could easily be doing 7,500 mile OCIs with this oil (if not longer)
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
IMO....Anyway you can substitue the M1 for a great quality conventional for the first 20K?

IMO...All you need is a great quality dino, that meets the spec for your VW, till you get the engine broke in and the garbage out of the sump.

There has got to be a few that you could use for short OCI's on your VW?

His car is under warranty. As such, he needs to stick with VW 502.00 certified oil. I don't know of any conventional oils that officially meet this spec.
 
Another guy who needs a Nissan LEAF 100% electric. No warmup. No Oil changes, antifreeze, transmission maint though
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Hey! sound good to me!
 
I think you're making a great choice with the oil if it meets spec as everyone is saying it does. This is truly a flagship product for Mobil 1.

I thought your results are extremely impressive. The engine is most certainly in break in mode and was VERY VERY young when this oil first went in. To have the wear be what it is, really impresses me.

You're still going to have some break in bits for the next one or two changes, but this is looking great. Nice car, nice engine, nice oil!

Wild guess, this could have been SM version, but doesn't matter and just a guess comparing it to my SN & SM report.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: mongo161
IMO....Anyway you can substitue the M1 for a great quality conventional for the first 20K?

IMO...All you need is a great quality dino, that meets the spec for your VW, till you get the engine broke in and the garbage out of the sump.

There has got to be a few that you could use for short OCI's on your VW?

His car is under warranty. As such, he needs to stick with VW 502.00 certified oil. I don't know of any conventional oils that officially meet this spec.



VW 502 is only Synthetic...Dino oils need not apply LOL
 
There are no current conventional PCMO anymore - NONE. Everything is hydrorocesseed, cat dewaxed etc. Of course, not too many real higher group synthetics anymore either - including this mobil 1. Nice shear out of grade - not. Stay in grade is a basic performance criterion for oil -- and this flunked. NO excuses. This M1 is a 30 grade in wolves cloth. Mehhhh!
 
Would A break in period have anything to with why it sheared? Or the fact that I did very little hwy driving?
 
Originally Posted By: jigen
Would A break in period have anything to with why it sheared? Or the fact that I did very little hwy driving?


This oil has been known to shear, and then thicken back up in use. No telling side of the curve you were on here. And this is entirely application specific.

There ARE applications where it does NOT shear. It never sheared in my Modular for example. But others appear to shear oil quite badly.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
There are no current conventional PCMO anymore - NONE. Everything is hydrorocesseed, cat dewaxed etc. Of course, not too many real higher group synthetics anymore either - including this mobil 1. Nice shear out of grade - not. Stay in grade is a basic performance criterion for oil -- and this flunked. NO excuses. This M1 is a 30 grade in wolves cloth. Mehhhh!


Exactly why my friend went to Amsoil Euro Formula & Motul...
 
Is having it as 30 grade a bad thing? I'd figure a thick 30 weight could be better than a 40w if I do mostly short trips not hitting full operating temp. I am always up for trying new oils.
 
Originally Posted By: jigen
Is having it as 30 grade a bad thing? I'd figure a thick 30 weight could be better than a 40w if I do mostly short trips not hitting full operating temp. I am always up for trying new oils.


I wouldn't worry about it. I have done 0w40 UOA after 150 miles to confirm my dealer used the oil. With that few miles on Blackstone analysis, it is already in the 12s on viscosity. @ 100C.
 
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