Reloading, is it sooo complicated?
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MolaKule
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It is not complicated at all. You have four basic components, primer, case, powder, and bullet.
Case trimmers, primer pocket cleaners, and an accurate powder scale are also necessary.
"Work" up your loads using median powder levels, according to the reloading manuals, and try different bullets and powder.
Most people see improved accuracies by experimenting.
Case trimmers, primer pocket cleaners, and an accurate powder scale are also necessary.
"Work" up your loads using median powder levels, according to the reloading manuals, and try different bullets and powder.
Most people see improved accuracies by experimenting.
Not complicated at all. Straight wall cartridges such as 357 and 40 a very easy to load. I've been re-loading for a while. Fee free to PM me.
Start by picking up the Lyman Reloading handbook. There is no better printed guide to loading. It also has load data for many, many cartridges.
You will need a scale, calipers and tumbler as well.
Spend money for carbide dies. You won't have to lube the cases.
Case trimming is not critical for the revolver cartridges, since they headspace on the rim. Truth be told, even my 40 S&W cases split long before they need to be trimmed. Bottleneck rifle cases do require regular trimming, since they grow as they are sized.
Start by picking up the Lyman Reloading handbook. There is no better printed guide to loading. It also has load data for many, many cartridges.
You will need a scale, calipers and tumbler as well.
Spend money for carbide dies. You won't have to lube the cases.
Case trimming is not critical for the revolver cartridges, since they headspace on the rim. Truth be told, even my 40 S&W cases split long before they need to be trimmed. Bottleneck rifle cases do require regular trimming, since they grow as they are sized.
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
It is not complicated at all. You have four basic components, primer, case, powder, and bullet.
Case trimmers, primer pocket cleaners, and an accurate powder scale are also necessary.
"Work" up your loads using median powder levels, according to the reloading manuals, and try different bullets and powder.
Most people see improved accuracies by experimenting.
Agreed. I've been reloading for only about 14 months, and already I've worked up loads for my .45ACP and 7mm Rem Mag that are far more accurate than any factory loads I've ever tried. Haven't been able to beat factory loads in 30-30 though.
I'd strongly recommend buying a couple good reloading manuals (I like the Lyman manual the best) and reading through them before you start working up loads. Try different powders and bullets to find what your gun likes - every gun is different. Above all, take your time, pay close attention to what you are doing, and have fun!
It is not complicated at all. You have four basic components, primer, case, powder, and bullet.
Case trimmers, primer pocket cleaners, and an accurate powder scale are also necessary.
"Work" up your loads using median powder levels, according to the reloading manuals, and try different bullets and powder.
Most people see improved accuracies by experimenting.
Agreed. I've been reloading for only about 14 months, and already I've worked up loads for my .45ACP and 7mm Rem Mag that are far more accurate than any factory loads I've ever tried. Haven't been able to beat factory loads in 30-30 though.
I'd strongly recommend buying a couple good reloading manuals (I like the Lyman manual the best) and reading through them before you start working up loads. Try different powders and bullets to find what your gun likes - every gun is different. Above all, take your time, pay close attention to what you are doing, and have fun!
Agree with the above recommendation about experimenting. Plenty of good books and websites with info, but it can be very subjective.
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Not complicated at all; but does require consistency and a clean organized working environment that is free from distractions. I learned everything from manuals and a couple of DVDs that I purchased.
I started back in 1990 and have loaded, reloaded, and reloaded more than 100K rounds of rifle and pistol ammunition at this point.
I graduated from a piecemeal RCBS Rockchucker kit (that I put together over time) to two Dillon RL550b reloaders. It just takes time and a bit of patience, but you will figure it out.
I started back in 1990 and have loaded, reloaded, and reloaded more than 100K rounds of rifle and pistol ammunition at this point.
I graduated from a piecemeal RCBS Rockchucker kit (that I put together over time) to two Dillon RL550b reloaders. It just takes time and a bit of patience, but you will figure it out.
just make sure you properly wash your cases.
Originally Posted By: hardcore302
just make sure you properly wash your cases.
I'm not sure what you're talking about. I've been reloading pistol ammo (9 mm, 38, 40, 45 ACP and 45 Colt) for over 30 years and I've never washed my cases. I tumble them to clean the brass.
Why would you wash your cases??
just make sure you properly wash your cases.
I'm not sure what you're talking about. I've been reloading pistol ammo (9 mm, 38, 40, 45 ACP and 45 Colt) for over 30 years and I've never washed my cases. I tumble them to clean the brass.
Why would you wash your cases??
Some folks are starting to use ultrasonic cleaners as well, but yes I tumble mine as well and don't "wash" them. If you are picking up range brass from an outdoor range, washing them might be a good idea to preserve the tumbler media.
And no it isn't complicated. As has already been said, reading, a clean/quiet work environment and attention to detail are important.
Lee stuff is O.K., I started on a Lee Turret press and found it pretty "fiddly". My recommendation would be to spend money on better equipment. RCBS, Hornady, Dillon... If you get a turret or progressive press, I would recommend running one round at a time to start with it is easier to learn what to watch for and not make mistakes when there is less going on.
There are a number of complete kits on the market both single stage and progressive.
You may find this information helpful as well:
http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillon.html
And no it isn't complicated. As has already been said, reading, a clean/quiet work environment and attention to detail are important.
Lee stuff is O.K., I started on a Lee Turret press and found it pretty "fiddly". My recommendation would be to spend money on better equipment. RCBS, Hornady, Dillon... If you get a turret or progressive press, I would recommend running one round at a time to start with it is easier to learn what to watch for and not make mistakes when there is less going on.
There are a number of complete kits on the market both single stage and progressive.
You may find this information helpful as well:
http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillon.html
I've had the RCBS (the older rockchucker was 1000% better than the new ones) Dillion, Lee and have only Lee now. Loaded tens of thouands of rounds on my Classic Cast Turret with decent reliable ammo. Had way too many issues with the Dillion (mostly primers issues)
Reloading is a great way to spend time and for me a great part of the hobby. When the weather is bad (like its been the last few weeks) I reload. Did about 2000 rounds in the last 2 weekends.
Nice feature on the Lee is you take out the index rod (a 2 second move) and you have a strong single stage. I've also got a Classic cast single stage that I have not used in quite a bit of time that I'm prob going to sell to get another Turret.
Also the used primer collection on the Classic cast series is the best of the industry IMO.
I'd say watch a few videos, PM some folks for more insight and go for it. With todays prices you can make back the cost of the equipment quickly. I load .40 S&W target/range loads for right around $5-6 a box. 7 cents per bullet, 3 cents for primer and less than a cent for powder. I can load a easy 250-300 rounds per hour. More if I want to get into it.
The real nice part is you can tailor your loads to what you want.
Take care and be safe!
Bill
PS: If you do decide on Lee make sure its a classic cast one. The older ones I have not used.
Reloading is a great way to spend time and for me a great part of the hobby. When the weather is bad (like its been the last few weeks) I reload. Did about 2000 rounds in the last 2 weekends.
Nice feature on the Lee is you take out the index rod (a 2 second move) and you have a strong single stage. I've also got a Classic cast single stage that I have not used in quite a bit of time that I'm prob going to sell to get another Turret.
Also the used primer collection on the Classic cast series is the best of the industry IMO.
I'd say watch a few videos, PM some folks for more insight and go for it. With todays prices you can make back the cost of the equipment quickly. I load .40 S&W target/range loads for right around $5-6 a box. 7 cents per bullet, 3 cents for primer and less than a cent for powder. I can load a easy 250-300 rounds per hour. More if I want to get into it.
The real nice part is you can tailor your loads to what you want.
Take care and be safe!
Bill
PS: If you do decide on Lee make sure its a classic cast one. The older ones I have not used.
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Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Had way too many issues with the Dillion (mostly primers issues).
That is unfortunate; I have one press setup for small primers and one for large and Dillon has always honored the "no bovine scat" guarantee. I have been quite pleased with them but I still have my RockChucker as well as the original Hornady Projector prior to the upgrade to Dillon. The Projector serves duty as a decapping press (it was one that had primer issues out the wazoo (I hear the newest ones are really good, mine is circa 1995).
Reloading is a great hobby and a heck of a cost saver too. We cap thousands of .221, .223, .22-250, and 6MM BR at our annual "brothers and sons" prairie dog hunt and the presses were been paid for long ago.
Had way too many issues with the Dillion (mostly primers issues).
That is unfortunate; I have one press setup for small primers and one for large and Dillon has always honored the "no bovine scat" guarantee. I have been quite pleased with them but I still have my RockChucker as well as the original Hornady Projector prior to the upgrade to Dillon. The Projector serves duty as a decapping press (it was one that had primer issues out the wazoo (I hear the newest ones are really good, mine is circa 1995).
Reloading is a great hobby and a heck of a cost saver too. We cap thousands of .221, .223, .22-250, and 6MM BR at our annual "brothers and sons" prairie dog hunt and the presses were been paid for long ago.
I've been doing it for about 8 months now and loaded over 2,000 rounds of 9MM, 45 ACP and 223 Rem. I would say it's almost fun as shooting it. IMO, my reloads are more better quality than factory rounds. You might think you will save more but you won't, if anything you will spend more money since you want to buy more components, upgrades and shoot alot more.
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Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
You might think you will save more but you won't, if anything you will spend more money since you want to buy more components, upgrades and shoot alot more.
This will reach an apex and taper off and you will begin saving money--especially with regards to rifle ammunition. I do not have the calculations handy, but my presses and equipment have been paid for many times over in cost of ammunition savings.
You might think you will save more but you won't, if anything you will spend more money since you want to buy more components, upgrades and shoot alot more.
This will reach an apex and taper off and you will begin saving money--especially with regards to rifle ammunition. I do not have the calculations handy, but my presses and equipment have been paid for many times over in cost of ammunition savings.
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
You might think you will save more but you won't, if anything you will spend more money since you want to buy more components, upgrades and shoot alot more.
This will reach an apex and taper off and you will begin saving money--especially with regards to rifle ammunition. I do not have the calculations handy, but my presses and equipment have been paid for many times over in cost of ammunition savings.
Agreed. Even with more shooting I still save some serious $$. And once you get into known recipes you save even more buying 500,1000 or more components.
Buying a case of primers you save almost 30% over the 1000 brick prices. Same or more with bullets.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
You might think you will save more but you won't, if anything you will spend more money since you want to buy more components, upgrades and shoot alot more.
This will reach an apex and taper off and you will begin saving money--especially with regards to rifle ammunition. I do not have the calculations handy, but my presses and equipment have been paid for many times over in cost of ammunition savings.
Agreed. Even with more shooting I still save some serious $$. And once you get into known recipes you save even more buying 500,1000 or more components.
Buying a case of primers you save almost 30% over the 1000 brick prices. Same or more with bullets.
Bill
One of the more expensive rounds I load for is the 300RUM, cost me .89 a round to reload. The same off the shelf factory load cost $3.14 per round. Pretty decent savings there.
I have two Rock Chucker presses mounted next to each other, along with a Hornady Lock and Load I was given as a gift. I use one Rock Chucker for decapping, one for sizing the case, and the lock and load to seat the bullets. I never got into the turret presses, because I was loading for 1000 yard F-Class and didn't need to mass produce ammo. As far as washing cases, I tumble them, then clean with an ultrasonic cleaner. You'd be amazed how nice a job it does cleaning cases.
What I like about the Rock Chucker press is I can load just about anything shy of a 50 BMG round, and it was built to last a lifetime.
What I like about the Rock Chucker press is I can load just about anything shy of a 50 BMG round, and it was built to last a lifetime.
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
You might think you will save more but you won't, if anything you will spend more money since you want to buy more components, upgrades and shoot alot more.
This will reach an apex and taper off and you will begin saving money--especially with regards to rifle ammunition. I do not have the calculations handy, but my presses and equipment have been paid for many times over in cost of ammunition savings.
I think you misunderstood what i'm trying to say. Per round of ammo over factory around I definately save more money. However I buy all my stuff in bulk 4K-5K of components at a time, I'll make a few hundred rounds here and there, and shoot them all quick. Then I have to buy even more stuff. I didn't shoot as often before I reaload. I find that evern since I started reloading i've been spending a lot more money buying more and more stuff. That's why I say you don't really save the money you have but spend as much if not more. If you set your goal to shooting 100 rounds per week, and it didn't matter if it's reaload, or factory, then you will save. However I shoot a lot more now that I reload, which means I don't really save.
Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
You might think you will save more but you won't, if anything you will spend more money since you want to buy more components, upgrades and shoot alot more.
This will reach an apex and taper off and you will begin saving money--especially with regards to rifle ammunition. I do not have the calculations handy, but my presses and equipment have been paid for many times over in cost of ammunition savings.
I think you misunderstood what i'm trying to say. Per round of ammo over factory around I definately save more money. However I buy all my stuff in bulk 4K-5K of components at a time, I'll make a few hundred rounds here and there, and shoot them all quick. Then I have to buy even more stuff. I didn't shoot as often before I reaload. I find that evern since I started reloading i've been spending a lot more money buying more and more stuff. That's why I say you don't really save the money you have but spend as much if not more. If you set your goal to shooting 100 rounds per week, and it didn't matter if it's reaload, or factory, then you will save. However I shoot a lot more now that I reload, which means I don't really save.
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Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
I think you misunderstood what i'm trying to say. Per round of ammo over factory around I definately save more money. However I buy all my stuff in bulk 4K-5K of components at a time, I'll make a few hundred rounds here and there, and shoot them all quick. Then I have to buy even more stuff. I didn't shoot as often before I reaload. I find that evern since I started reloading i've been spending a lot more money buying more and more stuff. That's why I say you don't really save the money you have but spend as much if not more. If you set your goal to shooting 100 rounds per week, and it didn't matter if it's reaload, or factory, then you will save. However I shoot a lot more now that I reload, which means I don't really save.
This may be true if you did not shoot at all, but round for round (loaded versus factory) it is cheaper and it keeps getting cheaper each time you reload the case up to the limit that you can reload it.
So not sure that you have a logical argument about savings here--if you shoot more, of course you will spend more, BUT you will spend even more if you do not reload.
For example, assume that you are going to shoot 1000 rounds of .223 ammo:
1000 rounds of factory ammo = $430
1000 rounds of OFB = $67
1000 Federal SRP = $26
1000 50gr bullets = $118
5# powder = $90
TOTAL = $301
NEXT/SUBSEQUENT RELOAD (No brass needed) = $234
I think you misunderstood what i'm trying to say. Per round of ammo over factory around I definately save more money. However I buy all my stuff in bulk 4K-5K of components at a time, I'll make a few hundred rounds here and there, and shoot them all quick. Then I have to buy even more stuff. I didn't shoot as often before I reaload. I find that evern since I started reloading i've been spending a lot more money buying more and more stuff. That's why I say you don't really save the money you have but spend as much if not more. If you set your goal to shooting 100 rounds per week, and it didn't matter if it's reaload, or factory, then you will save. However I shoot a lot more now that I reload, which means I don't really save.
This may be true if you did not shoot at all, but round for round (loaded versus factory) it is cheaper and it keeps getting cheaper each time you reload the case up to the limit that you can reload it.
So not sure that you have a logical argument about savings here--if you shoot more, of course you will spend more, BUT you will spend even more if you do not reload.
For example, assume that you are going to shoot 1000 rounds of .223 ammo:
1000 rounds of factory ammo = $430
1000 rounds of OFB = $67
1000 Federal SRP = $26
1000 50gr bullets = $118
5# powder = $90
TOTAL = $301
NEXT/SUBSEQUENT RELOAD (No brass needed) = $234
I only reload 38's so far, and I find it pretty easy. I started with a Lee Hand Press; it works well enough, but I should have bought a bench press to begin with. I have the Lee reloader press, whatever the base one is; and it's fine for at least 38's.
Once nice thing about revolver rounds is not having to trim. I don't know about 40, but that is likely the only extra step. Oh, the crimps are different, but that is a minor change.
Now, when I look at reloading bottlenecked rifle rounds, I get all confused. More steps, and even then, the brass is good only for x number of reloads--unless if it's good brass and low(er) power rounds. Rifles run lots more pressure, so trimming is encountered more often. Not saying it isn't worthwhile, just that it seems like a step up and beyond straight-walled cases.
Just do lots of reading, and I think you'll be all set. And don't take guesses: find answers. These are explosive devices, and assumptions might hurt more than just your ego.
Once nice thing about revolver rounds is not having to trim. I don't know about 40, but that is likely the only extra step. Oh, the crimps are different, but that is a minor change.
Now, when I look at reloading bottlenecked rifle rounds, I get all confused. More steps, and even then, the brass is good only for x number of reloads--unless if it's good brass and low(er) power rounds. Rifles run lots more pressure, so trimming is encountered more often. Not saying it isn't worthwhile, just that it seems like a step up and beyond straight-walled cases.
Just do lots of reading, and I think you'll be all set. And don't take guesses: find answers. These are explosive devices, and assumptions might hurt more than just your ego.
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