2012 Hyundai Accent needs what antifreeze?

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I have a 2012 Accent with 15,000 mi. It needs the coolant reservoir topped off.
I looked in the manual and the only "recommendation" is "ethylene glycol base antifreeze for aluminum radiator."
No spec, no nuthin'. Just this vague "recommendation."
I sampled some from the reservoir and it looks like the dark green stuff that I've seen Hondas use in the past.

What would be the proper antifreeze to use in this car?
 
How much is missing?

Just top it off with distilled water since a little is not going to matter.

If you need more than a few cups take it to the dealer and get it on paper that its using/loosing coolant. They can top it off.

Take care, Bill
 
Old school green nothing special, they specd this stuff for years, why change what works i guess.
 
Originally Posted By: j_mac
I have a 2012 Accent with 15,000 mi. It needs the coolant reservoir topped off.
I looked in the manual and the only "recommendation" is "ethylene glycol base antifreeze for aluminum radiator."
No spec, no nuthin'. Just this vague "recommendation."
I sampled some from the reservoir and it looks like the dark green stuff that I've seen Hondas use in the past.

This is a 2012 model, which means it's still very much under warranty. If I were you, I would go to a Hyundai dealer and buy a jug of their OE antifreeze. If Hyundai is doing what other Oriental makers are doing, then your factory fill is good for about 10-years. but that would depend on the formulation remaining 100% factory.

You just dropped however-many-thousands-of-dollars for this car (part of which paid for the warranty), so why quibble about $20 for a jug of the proper coolant? By the way, Honda hasn't used the dark-green stuff in at least 15-years; it's all dark-blue now.

I was originally going to suggest you bring it to your dealer, since the car is under warranty; but if you're asking for aftermarket suggestions, you're probably not the type to bring the car in for its warranty services anyway...
 
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Supposedly the Hyundai and corporate cousin Kia use a P-HOAT as factory fill. Beck-Arnley makes a green P-HOAT for this application but it's $25 a gallon at O'Reilly.

The recommendation of anti-freeze for aluminum radiator is what's been in the owner's manual for years. it's also been leading to confusion for years.
 
Go to the dealer and have them look at it. If you are losing coolant on a 2012 with only 15k miles there is a reason why, and they should be able to find it. And it should be covered under warranty.
 
Agree with Bill regarding immediate options/solutions.

As for what type of coolant, correct, Hyundai/Kia is vague spec to say the least, likely an Asian P-OAT. After OEM Hyundai AF, options include Zerex Asian Formula, unfortunately it only comes as a premix. Pinkish/red in color

Motorcraft Specialty Green is a full strength P-OAT available from a Ford dealer. And as mentioned, Beck Arnley is a full strength AF which says it's spec'd for Asian vehicles, difficult to find though and pricey.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'd like to get the proper spec antifreeze and do it myself because I've found out the dealer I got the car from are a bunch of jack-legs. But maybe, as Bill said, I should have it documented that it is loosing coolant, so when the head gasket squirts out I'll have some ammo in my corner. I've smelled antifreeze when getting out of the car more than once.
This is the first new car I have ever bought. After seeing how much damage they did to the car during "dealer prep" I would rather them not touch the car any more unless absolutely necessary. Also, I had to have a hub cap replaced THREE TIMES under warranty. The original fell off. #2 and #3 was severely damaged by them upon installation. Somehow on #4 I was able to get the parts guy to just hand me the hubcap and I installed it with no problem. So, I don't have much trust in the dealer.

Could someone familiar with new car warranties point out the significance of me documenting the loss of coolant? It has lost about 16 ounces in 15,000 miles.
 
First of all, how do you know for sure you lost 16 ounces? I don't know how much volume the reservoir tank holds, if you know this please let me know!

The only way to tell how much you are loosing is to see how much more fluid it takes to get it back up to the F-mark.

What would be considered abnormal is if the reservoir was close to being literally empty. Then you may have a problem and in that case take it to another reputable dealership.

As for warranty, definitely get the Hyundai OEM anti freeze and keep that receipt! They should have a 50/50 bottle, but if they only have concentrate, then get a gallon of distilled water and pour the mixture yourself.
 
I would get the coolant loss documented. It will CYA for when your warranty expires. If there is a continual loss of coolant throughout the warranty period, and you get it documented, but the dealer keeps telling you it's normal when you take it in, then after the warranty expires and the gasket completely fails, you'll be covered. Make sure they enter your issue into the computer, under your account and get a print our for your records. Buy the coolant there at the dealer and fill it yourself but keep that receipt as well.

This worked for me with my truck. I brought my truck in multiple times for a starting issue, of coarse the dealer "could not duplicate gripe", while it was under warranty. After my warranty had expired I found out on line that there was a TSB for this exact problem and the fix was a simple ECU re-flash. When I took it in they tried to say I would have to pay for the re-flash, so I told the service guy he should talk to his manager becasue there was no way I was going to get stuck with the bill. He came back and said his boss said there would be no charge because I had brought it in under warranty for the same issue. There was more talking and some minor threats made on both of our parts, but in the end I knew I was right and when they figured out I wasn't going to let them rip me off, they gave in.

Long story short, bring your vehicle in for any issue while under warranty to get it documented. Also stand strong if they try to make you foot the bill and above all, read the warranty fine print and know what is covered and what is not. An educated customer who stands strong will win every time if he/she is correct!
 
I bought the Kia branded antifreeze at the dealer for $20. It does appear to be a P-HOAT, as phosphorous is one of the main ingredients that are printed on the label.
 
Originally Posted By: Brons2
I bought the Kia branded antifreeze at the dealer for $20. It does appear to be a P-HOAT, as phosphorous is one of the main ingredients that are printed on the label.


Is that comparable to Honda's coolant?
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Originally Posted By: Brons2
I bought the Kia branded antifreeze at the dealer for $20. It does appear to be a P-HOAT, as phosphorous is one of the main ingredients that are printed on the label.


Is that comparable to Honda's coolant?


Yes, it is comparable. Probably not exactly the same, but very close.

It is, however, dyed a different color, so while under warranty, stick with OEM coolant to avoid any warranty frustrations.
 
For warrenty work you do not have to take it to the same dealership you bought it from.
 
Originally Posted By: thereed
I would get the coolant loss documented. It will CYA for when your warranty expires. If there is a continual loss of coolant throughout the warranty period, and you get it documented, but the dealer keeps telling you it's normal when you take it in, then after the warranty expires and the gasket completely fails, you'll be covered. Make sure they enter your issue into the computer, under your account and get a print our for your records. Buy the coolant there at the dealer and fill it yourself but keep that receipt as well.

This worked for me with my truck. I brought my truck in multiple times for a starting issue, of coarse the dealer "could not duplicate gripe", while it was under warranty. After my warranty had expired I found out on line that there was a TSB for this exact problem and the fix was a simple ECU re-flash. When I took it in they tried to say I would have to pay for the re-flash, so I told the service guy he should talk to his manager becasue there was no way I was going to get stuck with the bill. He came back and said his boss said there would be no charge because I had brought it in under warranty for the same issue. There was more talking and some minor threats made on both of our parts, but in the end I knew I was right and when they figured out I wasn't going to let them rip me off, they gave in.

Long story short, bring your vehicle in for any issue while under warranty to get it documented. Also stand strong if they try to make you foot the bill and above all, read the warranty fine print and know what is covered and what is not. An educated customer who stands strong will win every time if he/she is correct!



When it comes to "collecting" on your warranty or just after it expires what is posted above is the best advice you could get.

DOCUMENT, DOCUMENT, DOCUMENT, AND DOCUMENT, ANY issues.

Without such information stored in THEIR system and a hard copy printout for YOUR records you will have a pretty difficult time getting "good will" service for any problems you had during the warranty period that were not documented.
 
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