you know i have been mmo guy for 1 1/2 decades. but i hear about Seafoam. i think ill go buy some and see what it can do for me.
sea foam
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This stuff is more hype than solution.
If you REALLY want to clean carbon out of your engine use an approved product like PEA detergent products or something like GM or Chrysler top end engine cleaner.
As for all that smoke you see coming from the tail pipe ....it is only the light solvents burning off ...in the sea foam itself. LOL
If you REALLY want to clean carbon out of your engine use an approved product like PEA detergent products or something like GM or Chrysler top end engine cleaner.
As for all that smoke you see coming from the tail pipe ....it is only the light solvents burning off ...in the sea foam itself. LOL
I have to say that I use SF on all my cars. It does work, you just need to follow the directions and run it through a vacuum line. I seafoamed my nissan frontier 2.4 when I bought it at 84k miles and it put out a TON of smoke, and I could immediately feel a difference in how it ran. I seafoamed the same truck at 122k miles and didn't get nearly as much smoke. That would tell me there was less stuff burning off this time. The amount of smoke definitely varies between cars, so I really don't think it's just the seafoam itself burning off...
Redline SI-1 or even Techron would be my choice wayyyy before using SF...
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Redline SI-1 or even Techron would be my choice wayyyy before using SF...
But aren't they designed for different type of application? I do not think it is good idea to use Redline or Techron for the vacuum hose application!
Redline SI-1 or even Techron would be my choice wayyyy before using SF...
But aren't they designed for different type of application? I do not think it is good idea to use Redline or Techron for the vacuum hose application!
^If I'm treating the combustion chamber I forget about Sea Foam and use a true top-end cleaner that actually foams up and is more effective as a 'soak'.
Amsoil Power Foam, GM Top-End, AC Delco/Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaners, etc....
Amsoil Power Foam, GM Top-End, AC Delco/Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaners, etc....
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^If I'm treating the combustion chamber I forget about Sea Foam and use a true top-end cleaner that actually foams up and is more effective as a 'soak'.
Amsoil Power Foam, GM Top-End, AC Delco/Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaners, etc....
In the last few days of reading, I'm hearing that foam is a better method of delivery. Maybe I'll try one of these instead of seafoam.
Since my last post, I've cleaned (again) the MAF, intake piping, throttle body (again) and put in a bottle of Redline SI-1. I checked for vacuum leaks as well. Nothing found as of yet. Still getting pinging, especially in TC lockup around 45MPH. I keep thinking it is something computer related not letting it drop down a gear.
^If I'm treating the combustion chamber I forget about Sea Foam and use a true top-end cleaner that actually foams up and is more effective as a 'soak'.
Amsoil Power Foam, GM Top-End, AC Delco/Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaners, etc....
In the last few days of reading, I'm hearing that foam is a better method of delivery. Maybe I'll try one of these instead of seafoam.
Since my last post, I've cleaned (again) the MAF, intake piping, throttle body (again) and put in a bottle of Redline SI-1. I checked for vacuum leaks as well. Nothing found as of yet. Still getting pinging, especially in TC lockup around 45MPH. I keep thinking it is something computer related not letting it drop down a gear.
^Sounds like TCM programming or fluid issue, transmission non-engine related?
Just so you know, you have to find a way to ingest the foam cleaners in a way that does not come into contact with the MAF yet still have the vehicle running to ingest properly. This can also, like Sea Foam, as an side result throw a plug or sensor over the edge if it was on its way out anyway, as you are probably aware with any carbon expelling products like the ones in question.
Anyhow, for your car(which?) perhaps look into the atf subforum for issues with those symptoms. I got hesitation before in my Stratus going into OD/TC lockup around those speeds, hesitation then bogged/loss of power. Better when fully hot and absent of cold weather.
Replacing the filter in the pan, adding fresh transmission fluid and 1 1/2 bottles of Lubegard "Red Bottle" has symptoms gone. Sold the car to a family member last year.
Just so you know, you have to find a way to ingest the foam cleaners in a way that does not come into contact with the MAF yet still have the vehicle running to ingest properly. This can also, like Sea Foam, as an side result throw a plug or sensor over the edge if it was on its way out anyway, as you are probably aware with any carbon expelling products like the ones in question.
Anyhow, for your car(which?) perhaps look into the atf subforum for issues with those symptoms. I got hesitation before in my Stratus going into OD/TC lockup around those speeds, hesitation then bogged/loss of power. Better when fully hot and absent of cold weather.
Replacing the filter in the pan, adding fresh transmission fluid and 1 1/2 bottles of Lubegard "Red Bottle" has symptoms gone. Sold the car to a family member last year.
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Originally Posted By: 91344George
This stuff is more hype than solution.
If you REALLY want to clean carbon out of your engine use an approved product like PEA detergent products or something like GM or Chrysler top end engine cleaner.
As for all that smoke you see coming from the tail pipe ....it is only the light solvents burning off ...in the sea foam itself. LOL
This. AC Delco CC cleaner actually works. In back-to-back comparing it to Seafoam on a carboned up ford IAC, there was no comparison, the Delco stuff was VASTLY more effective.
This stuff is more hype than solution.
If you REALLY want to clean carbon out of your engine use an approved product like PEA detergent products or something like GM or Chrysler top end engine cleaner.
As for all that smoke you see coming from the tail pipe ....it is only the light solvents burning off ...in the sea foam itself. LOL
This. AC Delco CC cleaner actually works. In back-to-back comparing it to Seafoam on a carboned up ford IAC, there was no comparison, the Delco stuff was VASTLY more effective.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Sounds like TCM programming or fluid issue, transmission non-engine related?
Just so you know, you have to find a way to ingest the foam cleaners in a way that does not come into contact with the MAF yet still have the vehicle running to ingest properly. This can also, like Sea Foam, as an side result throw a plug or sensor over the edge if it was on its way out anyway, as you are probably aware with any carbon expelling products like the ones in question.
Anyhow, for your car(which?) perhaps look into the atf subforum for issues with those symptoms. I got hesitation before in my Stratus going into OD/TC lockup around those speeds, hesitation then bogged/loss of power. Better when fully hot and absent of cold weather.
Replacing the filter in the pan, adding fresh transmission fluid and 1 1/2 bottles of Lubegard "Red Bottle" has symptoms gone. Sold the car to a family member last year.
I'm aware of the side effects possible. One of the reasons I asked about seafoam was due to the potential pain and suffering on my part if I use it. Interesting suggestion about the A/T. Thing is it's practically new - I had it replaced 7k miles ago with a GM remanufactured unit under warranty. I'll probably know more once I consider any carbon issues resolved. I'll probably pull a few plugs and see what they look like while I'm at it.
What I really would like to do is just reset the ECU. I've heard so many different opinions on doing this that I'm not sure who is right on the proper method, other than a reflash at the dealer.
I found a really old forum thread on this topic about a week ago...can't seem to find it now.
^Sounds like TCM programming or fluid issue, transmission non-engine related?
Just so you know, you have to find a way to ingest the foam cleaners in a way that does not come into contact with the MAF yet still have the vehicle running to ingest properly. This can also, like Sea Foam, as an side result throw a plug or sensor over the edge if it was on its way out anyway, as you are probably aware with any carbon expelling products like the ones in question.
Anyhow, for your car(which?) perhaps look into the atf subforum for issues with those symptoms. I got hesitation before in my Stratus going into OD/TC lockup around those speeds, hesitation then bogged/loss of power. Better when fully hot and absent of cold weather.
Replacing the filter in the pan, adding fresh transmission fluid and 1 1/2 bottles of Lubegard "Red Bottle" has symptoms gone. Sold the car to a family member last year.
I'm aware of the side effects possible. One of the reasons I asked about seafoam was due to the potential pain and suffering on my part if I use it. Interesting suggestion about the A/T. Thing is it's practically new - I had it replaced 7k miles ago with a GM remanufactured unit under warranty. I'll probably know more once I consider any carbon issues resolved. I'll probably pull a few plugs and see what they look like while I'm at it.
What I really would like to do is just reset the ECU. I've heard so many different opinions on doing this that I'm not sure who is right on the proper method, other than a reflash at the dealer.
I found a really old forum thread on this topic about a week ago...can't seem to find it now.
Originally Posted By: bigmike
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Sounds like TCM programming or fluid issue, transmission non-engine related?
Just so you know, you have to find a way to ingest the foam cleaners in a way that does not come into contact with the MAF yet still have the vehicle running to ingest properly. This can also, like Sea Foam, as an side result throw a plug or sensor over the edge if it was on its way out anyway, as you are probably aware with any carbon expelling products like the ones in question.
Anyhow, for your car(which?) perhaps look into the atf subforum for issues with those symptoms. I got hesitation before in my Stratus going into OD/TC lockup around those speeds, hesitation then bogged/loss of power. Better when fully hot and absent of cold weather.
Replacing the filter in the pan, adding fresh transmission fluid and 1 1/2 bottles of Lubegard "Red Bottle" has symptoms gone. Sold the car to a family member last year.
I'm aware of the side effects possible. One of the reasons I asked about seafoam was due to the potential pain and suffering on my part if I use it. Interesting suggestion about the A/T. Thing is it's practically new - I had it replaced 7k miles ago with a GM remanufactured unit under warranty. I'll probably know more once I consider any carbon issues resolved. I'll probably pull a few plugs and see what they look like while I'm at it.
What I really would like to do is just reset the ECU. I've heard so many different opinions on doing this that I'm not sure who is right on the proper method, other than a reflash at the dealer.
I found a really old forum thread on this topic about a week ago...can't seem to find it now.
Most cars you can just remove the neg cable on your battery for a few minutes then reinstall. Could go to autozone, etc and have them check for codes and to reset your computer.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Sounds like TCM programming or fluid issue, transmission non-engine related?
Just so you know, you have to find a way to ingest the foam cleaners in a way that does not come into contact with the MAF yet still have the vehicle running to ingest properly. This can also, like Sea Foam, as an side result throw a plug or sensor over the edge if it was on its way out anyway, as you are probably aware with any carbon expelling products like the ones in question.
Anyhow, for your car(which?) perhaps look into the atf subforum for issues with those symptoms. I got hesitation before in my Stratus going into OD/TC lockup around those speeds, hesitation then bogged/loss of power. Better when fully hot and absent of cold weather.
Replacing the filter in the pan, adding fresh transmission fluid and 1 1/2 bottles of Lubegard "Red Bottle" has symptoms gone. Sold the car to a family member last year.
I'm aware of the side effects possible. One of the reasons I asked about seafoam was due to the potential pain and suffering on my part if I use it. Interesting suggestion about the A/T. Thing is it's practically new - I had it replaced 7k miles ago with a GM remanufactured unit under warranty. I'll probably know more once I consider any carbon issues resolved. I'll probably pull a few plugs and see what they look like while I'm at it.
What I really would like to do is just reset the ECU. I've heard so many different opinions on doing this that I'm not sure who is right on the proper method, other than a reflash at the dealer.
I found a really old forum thread on this topic about a week ago...can't seem to find it now.
Most cars you can just remove the neg cable on your battery for a few minutes then reinstall. Could go to autozone, etc and have them check for codes and to reset your computer.
^He also mentioned getting the ECU re-flashed, so...good stuff mike. Report back, or clarify if you think its a programming issue or you are just wanting to reset the computer.
PS: I was able to use a top-end cleaner on a nissan titan by using the breather box that fed both valve-covers(each side of the V8) areas vacuum. This didn't get all product into the combustion chamber, but did it well enough to soak and expel some crud(not just chemically expelling either, some dark clouds of carbon, so it worked).
PS: I was able to use a top-end cleaner on a nissan titan by using the breather box that fed both valve-covers(each side of the V8) areas vacuum. This didn't get all product into the combustion chamber, but did it well enough to soak and expel some crud(not just chemically expelling either, some dark clouds of carbon, so it worked).
Originally Posted By: 91344George
This stuff is more hype than solution.
If you REALLY want to clean carbon out of your engine use an approved product like PEA detergent products or something like GM or Chrysler top end engine cleaner.
As for all that smoke you see coming from the tail pipe ....it is only the light solvents burning off ...in the sea foam itself. LOL
You are right about the white smoke but I have seen a dark yellow smoke come from an old ford escort with 170,000 miles on it. If your car is maintained or newer then there is no need for seafoam. But if it is old or a 2 cycle engine, then seafoam is worth the $10.
This stuff is more hype than solution.
If you REALLY want to clean carbon out of your engine use an approved product like PEA detergent products or something like GM or Chrysler top end engine cleaner.
As for all that smoke you see coming from the tail pipe ....it is only the light solvents burning off ...in the sea foam itself. LOL
You are right about the white smoke but I have seen a dark yellow smoke come from an old ford escort with 170,000 miles on it. If your car is maintained or newer then there is no need for seafoam. But if it is old or a 2 cycle engine, then seafoam is worth the $10.
For an update...
I have run about 1/2 a tank with the Redline and I don't hear the pinging anymore. I don't know for certain it's completely gone, but I haven't heard it for over a week now.
I'm questioning why MMO didn't prevent this because I add it to every tank. I won't draw any concrete conclusions - I have a wait and see attitude.
Hopefully, it's good to go. If it is, Redline is some amazing stuff.
I have run about 1/2 a tank with the Redline and I don't hear the pinging anymore. I don't know for certain it's completely gone, but I haven't heard it for over a week now.
I'm questioning why MMO didn't prevent this because I add it to every tank. I won't draw any concrete conclusions - I have a wait and see attitude.
Hopefully, it's good to go. If it is, Redline is some amazing stuff.
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