Has anyone here really had an oil filter fail?

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Years past I had cut open several Purolator filters to find tears in the paper media. I don't use Purolator any longer and have not found such damage in any filter since.

The car I remember was a Honda accord and a Ford Escort. I can't remember what oil but all drain intervals were in the 5,000 mile range.
 
I did not know this about Purolator or PureOne, but i can believe it.

Buying $2-$4 black can Supertech oil filters from now on. They are made by a good company.

I also always buy oversize filters that are thread-compatible too. I forget the prime example, but the normal filter is 2 numbers and the oversize filter is "3852A" or something. Thread-compatible. I get that.
 
I cut open a Purolator P1 (PL14610) about two months ago and the filter was really warped and had a slight tear. The big problem I had with it was the filter was only in use for about a month/700 miles. The only reason I changed it was because I was itching to try a new filter I had just purchased. Any filter can have a problem. I have seen the same P1's do 10k OCI's and upon cutting them open it seemed they could go another 10k. So it is really just bad luck to get a lousy filter.
 
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Not in 15 years driving on 5 vehicles totaling 700,000 miles of service.

Have used Fram, Purolaters, STP, Wix, etc.
 
I have a Supertech 3953a (the one for the Accord) and a very similar firestone filter (only ADBV is different) with tears in the media. I'll get the pictures up soon.
I also have 2 pureones that look perfect, but they were used in the Corolla.

Originally Posted By: 45ACP
I did not know this about Purolator or PureOne, but i can believe it.

Buying $2-$4 black can Supertech oil filters from now on. They are made by a good company.

I also always buy oversize filters that are thread-compatible too. I forget the prime example, but the normal filter is 2 numbers and the oversize filter is "3852A" or something. Thread-compatible. I get that.
 
Yes I have. Back in the late 80s, I had a couple of filters (1 Fram, 1 or 2 "store" brand long forgotten) collapse internally so that oil pressure shot down abnormally low. The Fram had the whole filter media wadded up on top of the center outlet hole so even the bypass valve was pinched and wouldn't work fully.

This was on my old 73 Plymouth with its indestructible 318, so the car survived. But I got way more careful about filters. Thats when I went on the Wix and Purolator bandwagon and never got off. I've had 1 or 2 Wix filters that would drain back overnight more than I liked, but never anything more serious. Never a problem whatsoever (knock wood...) with Purolator, either base or P1 lines.
 
GM LY7 engines had a rash of failures with multiple filter brands due to a series of issues:

1. Filter directly adjacent front cat converter and within 0.3 inch

2. Long OCIs caused filter material heat degradation

3. Very small critical orifices in engine would become clogged with typical size pieces of filter breakaway material.

GM responded with:

1. Engine oil orifice modification on subsequent engines (LLT).

2. Reduced OCI

3. Changed recommended filter part #.

I have cut open hundreds of filters. You ocassionally see the filter media torn or damaged. It dosent hurt hardly any engines. The LY7 was different and a small piece of filter would hurt it.
 
Were these "failures" from improper installation? I have obviously seen the idiots at some oil change places overtighten or crush it while installing...
 
Had an OCOD fail at the gasket on a Camry. Oil everywhere. Prior to that I had used OCODs for many years without problems. Never had a problem with a Purolator.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Were these "failures" from improper installation? I have obviously seen the idiots at some oil change places overtighten or crush it while installing...


Yeah this happens way too often. But with my experience I did the oil change. I only hand tighten my oil filters there is nothing I dislike more than doing on oil change and find out some before me over tighten an filter or drain plug! But I still use Purolator filters just not P-1's. I use motorcrafts for my Fords and will continue to use them. If anyone else wants to use one I will not discourage them but I will not use a P-1 again.
 
I did recently. It was a RP 20-400 filter. My car out of the blue developed a nasty lifter ticking sound. I check the oil, it was full. I had a MC oil filter and swapped it out. The tick is gone. I did not change the oil because I did not want to dump $40 worth of oil way early if it wasn't needed. This UOA will be interesting
Dusty
 
When I was young and stupid, I badly overtightened a Fram and the gasket failed. Other than that, no, and I used the dreaded OCOD for decades.

About that same time, I was with a hunting buddy when his engine locked up, we'd only made it about 5-6 blocks. Turns out he'd changed the oil in the dark the night before, and used the wrong filter, so we left a stream of oil that whole way. I wouldn't call that a filter failure though, as it was the wrong filter for the application.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Purolator PureOne. Quakerstate 10W-30. 89 Ford Ranger. Less than 800 miles. Filter completely staved the engine of oil.


How does a filter, working or not, "completely starve" an engine of oil? Did it blow out or something?
 
I bought a Bosch that rattled inside; I cut it open instead of using it and the leaf spring was installed backwards. There was no spring compression holding the filter element against the bottom of the can.

I have pics if you search.
 
Inquiring minds want to know.
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