Is it safe to run a high mileage oil in a JASO-MA application? I am looking at running Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30 in a JASO-MA application for no other reason than to simply try it because I can. It seems from reading here and elsewhere people are running M1 0w30 and 0w40 in JASO-MA applications with decent results. M1 High Mileage 10w30 is SL rated and does not look to be "Energy Conserving."
High mileage oils in a JASO-MA application?
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First you should have mentioned "using car motor oil in motorcycles" since not everyone knows what a JASO-MA application is.
I would strongly advise against it.
Here is a short answer why:
Car oils in Bikes ?
A lot of people have used engine oils meant for cars in their bikes and claim that there is absolutely nothing wrong in doing so since they cannot find any damage .
The damage is certainly not perceptible to you , but such engine oils undoubtedly damage the internals . A brief intro for those who don't want to read the lengthy post-
Most car oils are rated as API SF, SG, SL and the latest being SM (not yet avail in India)
These ratings are given once in three years and each new rating is an improvement over the previous one . The ratings are in the same order as the english aphabets . The newer is better . so SM is better than SL and SL is better than SG etc.
Car engine oils have friction modifiers in them . Motorbike engine oils - specifically four stroke engines with a wet clutch multiplate setup do not require oils with friction modifiers . Modifiers can increase or decrease the friction , but most of the modifiers used are to reduce friction.
In my earlier post wrt to synth oils I have already explained why synthetic oils sometimes cause the clutch to slip .
The complete answer can be found at:
Using Car oil in Motorcycles
I would strongly advise against it.
Here is a short answer why:
Car oils in Bikes ?
A lot of people have used engine oils meant for cars in their bikes and claim that there is absolutely nothing wrong in doing so since they cannot find any damage .
The damage is certainly not perceptible to you , but such engine oils undoubtedly damage the internals . A brief intro for those who don't want to read the lengthy post-
Most car oils are rated as API SF, SG, SL and the latest being SM (not yet avail in India)
These ratings are given once in three years and each new rating is an improvement over the previous one . The ratings are in the same order as the english aphabets . The newer is better . so SM is better than SL and SL is better than SG etc.
Car engine oils have friction modifiers in them . Motorbike engine oils - specifically four stroke engines with a wet clutch multiplate setup do not require oils with friction modifiers . Modifiers can increase or decrease the friction , but most of the modifiers used are to reduce friction.
In my earlier post wrt to synth oils I have already explained why synthetic oils sometimes cause the clutch to slip .
The complete answer can be found at:
Using Car oil in Motorcycles
Are you talking about your Honda ATV? I'd run a 10W-30 in that only in the winter. In the hottest summer, I'd run an xW-50 in any air cooled powersport engine. I'd stick to either a motorcycle/ATV specific oil or a diesel engine oil--either is more robust than an automotive oil.
Technically speaking Energy Conserving oil can not defeat a
wet clutch in good working order... whats confusing the issue
is the fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a
point in their life and start to slip... no one complains
about clutch slip when new... but on about the 27K range is
when containments may build up to point where the clutch
begins to loose its grip during WFO (Wide Fooking
Open)throttle only... in error you can blame the oil but its
really the clutch...
I've been using 10/30 Energy Conserving Mobil 1 since 98 in
Mr.RC45 with no clutch slipping due to oil being certified
10% slipperier than non EC oil... and it's a bike with a tall
first gear good for 90mph that's known to incinerate clutch
plates...
Quote SportRider
Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?
"To answer this in one word: No. Clutch slippage is caused by
many things, but the use of synthetic oil alone is usually
not the culprit. The truth is that some bikes seem to suffer
clutch slippage no matter what oil goes in them, while others
run fine with any oil. This is most likely caused by factors
other than the oil, such as the spring pressure, age and
clutch plate materials".
Quote Mark Junge, Vesrah's Racing representative
"He said that in his years of engine work he has yet to see a
slipping clutch that could be pinned on synthetic motor oil.
Junge felt that nearly every time the clutch was marginal or
had worn springs, the new oil just revealed a problem that
already existed."
wet clutch in good working order... whats confusing the issue
is the fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a
point in their life and start to slip... no one complains
about clutch slip when new... but on about the 27K range is
when containments may build up to point where the clutch
begins to loose its grip during WFO (Wide Fooking
Open)throttle only... in error you can blame the oil but its
really the clutch...
I've been using 10/30 Energy Conserving Mobil 1 since 98 in
Mr.RC45 with no clutch slipping due to oil being certified
10% slipperier than non EC oil... and it's a bike with a tall
first gear good for 90mph that's known to incinerate clutch
plates...
Quote SportRider
Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?
"To answer this in one word: No. Clutch slippage is caused by
many things, but the use of synthetic oil alone is usually
not the culprit. The truth is that some bikes seem to suffer
clutch slippage no matter what oil goes in them, while others
run fine with any oil. This is most likely caused by factors
other than the oil, such as the spring pressure, age and
clutch plate materials".
Quote Mark Junge, Vesrah's Racing representative
"He said that in his years of engine work he has yet to see a
slipping clutch that could be pinned on synthetic motor oil.
Junge felt that nearly every time the clutch was marginal or
had worn springs, the new oil just revealed a problem that
already existed."
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Yea, I've used it too and never had a problem. All depends on if the clutch is marginal to begin with however best to avoid energy conserving if possible to be on the safe side. It definately doesn't do the major clutch destruction whithin 10 miles which is the fables you read.
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
A lot of people have used engine oils meant for cars in their bikes and claim that there is absolutely nothing wrong in doing so since they cannot find any damage .
The damage is certainly not perceptible to you , but such engine oils undoubtedly damage the internals .
Using Car oil in Motorcycles
So "car oil" does undoubtable motorcycle damage that we "can not find" and is "not perceptible" to us.
Would I need to hire an "invisible mechanic" to repair this type of damage? I am now over 300,000 motocycle miles on "Car oil" so this damage must be quite undoubtable by now!
A lot of people have used engine oils meant for cars in their bikes and claim that there is absolutely nothing wrong in doing so since they cannot find any damage .
The damage is certainly not perceptible to you , but such engine oils undoubtedly damage the internals .
Using Car oil in Motorcycles
So "car oil" does undoubtable motorcycle damage that we "can not find" and is "not perceptible" to us.
Would I need to hire an "invisible mechanic" to repair this type of damage? I am now over 300,000 motocycle miles on "Car oil" so this damage must be quite undoubtable by now!
my manuals say not to use Energy Conserving II (as in roman numeral 2).
which i have never been able to find on any bottle/jug of oil....ever!
and i have tested oils with as high as 135ppm moly with never a clutch issue.
which i have never been able to find on any bottle/jug of oil....ever!
and i have tested oils with as high as 135ppm moly with never a clutch issue.
I always ran M1 10w30 in my GS500, which had 80,000 miles on it when I sold it. You could still see all the hash marks on the cam lobes and the bottom end was clean. Looked like a new motor.
This bike endured 4 seasons of Formula Clubman in WERA SE region, as well as being not only my daily transport, but my ONLY transportation for 7 years!
This bike endured 4 seasons of Formula Clubman in WERA SE region, as well as being not only my daily transport, but my ONLY transportation for 7 years!
Well, I changed my mind. I turned Rotella T5 10w30 into water in my 400X after about 10 hours. I don't think it can handle the abuse I put my ATV through, even though it is an HDEO. I never noticed a degradation in shift quality or clutch issues but that stuff drained like WATER. I am going to stick with either SRT 15w40 or ST 15w40.
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