Mazdaspeed3 under warranty and Rotella T6
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gathermewool
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You just answered your own question. If your manual says to use API-SM oil, then this oil fits the bill, so long as Mazda allows for 5W-40. Regardless, it is my opinion that Mazda would have a hard fight to deny an engine warranty based on using this oil, even if it weren't SM-rated.
Not the best choice IMO. 5w30 is the prefered viscosity. A 40wt is not even mentioned as an option in my manual.
Do they require any other specs beyond API SM? If not, then you should be good to go, as T6 meets the API SM spec for gasoline engines.
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
Do they require any other specs beyond API SM? If not, then you should be good to go, as T6 meets the API SM spec for gasoline engines.
copy n paste from manual
""Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline
Engines” by the American Petroleum
Institute (API). An oil with this trademark
symbol conforms to the current engine
and emission system protection standards
and fuel economy requirements of the
International Lubricant Standardization
and Approval Committee (ILSAC),
comprised of U.S. and Japanese
automobile manufacturers.""
T6 doesnt have ILSAC designation on the bottle
Do they require any other specs beyond API SM? If not, then you should be good to go, as T6 meets the API SM spec for gasoline engines.
copy n paste from manual
""Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline
Engines” by the American Petroleum
Institute (API). An oil with this trademark
symbol conforms to the current engine
and emission system protection standards
and fuel economy requirements of the
International Lubricant Standardization
and Approval Committee (ILSAC),
comprised of U.S. and Japanese
automobile manufacturers.""
T6 doesnt have ILSAC designation on the bottle
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A lot of MS3 owners here and on the fanboy sites report good luck with PP 5W-30. Both PP and M1 are "HTO-06" approved which gives me a little extra warm fuzzy. I'm on my first fill of PP after 18,000 miles of conventional OCI'd at 3-4,000 miles. I started another thread last week expressing my concern over the appearance and smell of this first fill of PP at 3000 miles. I'll get it out and tested NLT 4000.
This engine does have a history of being hard on oil, so you should watch it closely, especially if you do a lot of short trips. Hard to imagine any extended runs beyond 5000.
This engine does have a history of being hard on oil, so you should watch it closely, especially if you do a lot of short trips. Hard to imagine any extended runs beyond 5000.
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Originally Posted By: Indydriver
This engine does have a history of being hard on oil, so you should watch it closely, especially if you do a lot of short trips. Hard to imagine any extended runs beyond 5000.
I switched from a 5K OCI to a 7.7K OCI at 70K miles. Based on my engine and the UOAs I've had performed M1 5W-30 works fine for me. Fuel dilution is nil and the TBN remains above 2.0. If anything, wear metals are averaging better -on a per mile basis- under the extended runs.
This engine does have a history of being hard on oil, so you should watch it closely, especially if you do a lot of short trips. Hard to imagine any extended runs beyond 5000.
I switched from a 5K OCI to a 7.7K OCI at 70K miles. Based on my engine and the UOAs I've had performed M1 5W-30 works fine for me. Fuel dilution is nil and the TBN remains above 2.0. If anything, wear metals are averaging better -on a per mile basis- under the extended runs.
I'd go with PP 5w-30 while you're under warranty IMHO. Then go to Rotella the day that warranty runs out.
Just make sure to hold onto the receipts, and write the date/mileage when you do it-warranties can be made of gold if you actually need it.
Just make sure to hold onto the receipts, and write the date/mileage when you do it-warranties can be made of gold if you actually need it.
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