93 Mazda B2600i 243K miles, M1 15w-50 4800 miles

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
489
Location
Metro Atlanta GA
code:

Vehicle: 1993 Mazda B2600i

Engine: 2.6L Fuel Injected

Fuel Type: Gasoline (Unleaded); 87 Octane

Air Filter: Purolator Premium Plus

Oil Filter: Purolator Pure One

Oil Capacity: 5 Quarts

Additives Used: FP60 for 2 tanks

Driving Conditions: expressway commuting 60 miles per day. 20 miles stop and go,

30 65-75 mph, and 10 45-50 mph secondary roads.





Date: 01/21/06

Months in service: 3.5

Oil Brand: Mobil 1

Oil Grade 15w-50 (non EP)

Oil Miles: 4,800

Engine Miles: 243,700

Make-Up Oil: 1 qts (15w-50 EP)

Lab: Blackstone

Universal

Avg

Aluminum: 3 3

Chromium: 1 1

Iron: 13 11

Copper: 3 7

Lead: 7 2

Tin: 0 1

Molybdenum: 69 46

Nickel: 0 0

Manganese: 0 4

Silver: 0 0

Titanium: 0 0

Potassium: 4 1

Boron: 44 48

Silicon: 8 15

Sodium: 228 5

Calcium: 2459 2239

Magnesium: 16 231

Phosphorus: 927 799

Zinc: 1092 942

Barium: 0 0



TBN 5.9

SUS Visc@210°F 86.1

Insolubles % 0.5

Fuel %
Water % 0.0

Antifreeze ?

Flashpoint in °F 390



Yep. I've got a coolant leak. Head gasket is leaking. Most of that was external to the engine. This UOA confirms that some is getting in the oil. I already have a Dyson analysis and am initiating the suggested repairs. Most of the make up oil was the result of a leaking valve cover gasket which has been replaced. I'm going back down to 10w-30 oil now that most of the oil consumption has stopped. As one would expect for a engine with 243K miles, it does burn some oil but there's no signs of it except for the slow drop of the oil level.
 
Can you run 15-50 w/o hla noise in your 2600?
I was planning on 5-40 Rotella T or even Penn Plat when I finish ARXing my 2200 but mine does not like 10/30 or 10/40 as well as 5/30.

I quess I'll test mine as I usually only run a UOA on 3.1 and 3.8 GM for coolant leaks.
 
Yes.

I only get a little HLA noise on startup in temps below 25-30 deg F. Once the temp gauge starts moving, there is no HLA noise. This cylinder head has less than 60K miles on it. And it has never had a lot of HLA noise unlike the original head. I think there most have been some improvement in the HLAs and rocker arms in the head remanufacturing process that wasn't there with the OEM head. The original cylinder head was replaced due to a crack in a coolant passage. I would get a lot of HLA noise and carbon build up all the time regardless of temperature or oil used. I think the original head had a quality control issue since it cracked and was noisy and the new one isn't noisy.

It would have been interesting if back then I had known about Auto-RX, to see if Auto-RX could have done something about the HLA noise.

Only reason I used the 15w50 was from a mistaken belief that I could reduce the oil consumption when it was a leaking gasket that accounted for most of the oil use.

Anyway I don't see a problem with running a 5w40 oil in the Mazda B series engines if it doesn't cause a lot of HLA noise.
 
I did my B2200 head at 100k but it was just warped/ carbon build up. I changed a few HLA then but still have one or two in the front that are intermitant tappers. I have some 15-40 delo but decided to cut it 50/50 with 5-20 for the ARX clean phase as long as I already have weak HLA.
 
243k miles on a B2600i. Not bad, but I bet the 1990 I had for 80k miles is still running strong with no problems. At 80k miles, you could drop the oil at 3k OCI and it looked new.

I wish I still had that 1990. Those are some of the easiest vehicles to maintain. Fuel filter, radiator flush, etc.
 
quote:

243k miles on a B2600i. Not bad...

Yeah. I'm looking at trying to get 300K from it. Other than the pesky aluminum alloy head that likes to warp if the engine even thinks about running hot, it's been a pretty dependable truck. Ditto on the easy to work on. Only wish I had a diagnostic tool to read the computer codes. But other than that I've got no complaints.
 
Audi,

Have you ever replaced the O2 sensor? I think they are supposed to be changed out at 60k. LOL...

Back in the early 90's, they were a dealer-only part and about $200.

I don't think many of them get replaced.
 
Jaycee,

If you haven't already, I'd change all the coolant hoses. The coolant temp sensor is badly placed and the engine will run hot enough to warp the head before the needle on the temp guage starts moving. The only indication that it's running hot is preignition spark knock (detonation). That happened to me after I replaced the cracked head and warped the new head when a hose burst.
freak2.gif
I had changed all the hoses but the one that runs around the back of the engine between the engine and firewall.
mad.gif
 
Yes at 172K in 2000. It was $109 and I don't recall why I changed it. I think the engine was idling a little rough and maybe the service manual said it needed changing due to age. Pretty sure I did't get it from a dealer. This particular truck gives outstanding emissions tests every year which are required in Metro Atlanta. After this years tests the tech mentioned that the readings on emissions were etremely low parcularly for a vehicle with 243K miles.
 
Don't recall if they are special order molded hoses at the moment. I'll look at my factory shop manual and at the truck tonight and let you know. I recall about 8 hoses. The upper and lower radiator, two that are the feed and return to the oil cooler, I think I used regular heater hose for these, of cousse there are the two heater hoses, and I recall a couple more.
 
Jaycee,

There are 10 coolant hoses. Other than the molded hoses for the upper and lower radiator hoses, looks like you can use standard off the shelf hoses for the rest. If I can find a scanner at work, I can send you the coolant flow/hose diagram and will let you know if I get it scanned.

a_g
 
Jaycee,

Yeah they are kinda hidden. I had to use the cooling system diagram to find them.

Got the diagram doc scanned into a pdf. Send me a private message with your email address and I'll send it to you.

a_g
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top