Tool Review: Cen-Tech Battery Analyzer

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Solar and Schumacher, Midtronics, etc. offer ones like this. You can find battery testers on Amazon, which is a good place to see various ones.

The CenTech was the best option to give real information and not just a fraction of the CCA value.
 
Retested my battery today after a 30min drive (and 20min of sitting in garage after)

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the first page was 7.94mohm This was with an input value of 470cca for battery (no one lists the stock battery CCA? and its not on battery)
 
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Just got one on ebay, new, shipped, cheap. Thanks OP! Will add to this thread when it comes in.
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Originally Posted By: Rand
Retested my battery today after a 30min drive (and 20min of sitting in garage after)

the first page was 7.94mohm This was with an input value of 470cca for battery (no one lists the stock battery CCA? and its not on battery)


Check your OM. I dont know the algorithm, but I assume that if not entered right, the other values could be off.

Not sure if 20 min is enough time to properly get rid of the surface charge.
 
Got mine. Noticed it doesn't (appear) to do temperature compensation like a fancier Midtronics.

I hate the clamps. I tend to pry outward on the outside portion of the alligator clips to force the inner parts to clamp more fiercely. These plastic clamps don't take well to that, the spring is somewhat loose. Also the wiring (insulation) is a stiff plastic that doesn't like cold weather.

The display is large, easily read, and the interface tolerable. If I can't figure out that 412 CCA is 75% of 550 the bar graph up top reinforces the idea.

On initial clamp wiggle I hoped the thing would boot itself up. Instead I have to hit the power button. The screen flickers as you hook up the alligator clips, making you think you don't have it. It's possible if you get lucky on the first connection, it will boot, I guess.

I can't shake the idea that all the R&D went into the chips inside, and the display, and the user is getting short changed on the clamps, wire, case, and front panel buttons.

Great news, it hates the battery I've been trying to return to advance, on suspicion of a dead cell. Says it only has 80 CCA. Unfortunately, it has no printer, isn't "warranty certifiable", and the store would have to use their own machine anyway per their policy, surely.

Still a useful gadget. I have a friendly junkyard with a "few" batteries on a rack by the cash register. Pick the best one scientifically, not via date or cleanliness alone.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Rand
Retested my battery today after a 30min drive (and 20min of sitting in garage after)

the first page was 7.94mohm This was with an input value of 470cca for battery (no one lists the stock battery CCA? and its not on battery)


Check your OM. I dont know the algorithm, but I assume that if not entered right, the other values could be off.

Not sure if 20 min is enough time to properly get rid of the surface charge.


maybe you could check my owners manual too... I dont think it lists it.(looked 2x so far)

It lists a 48AH battery with no CCA

subaru 2011 forester manual
should work for a manual.

I did test my battery again the next morning after sitting overnight it tested 7.xx mohm 80% and 350~~ CCA

From what I read online these batteries are mildly terrible.

the MT gets a GREAT 48AH 4xx CCA and the auto gets boosted to a 52AH battery.. cant find real CCA anywhere so far.

It just so happens My grandma's car wouldnt start today in -5F
so I checked it out.(she missed her hair appt.. lol)
the meter said 12.21mohm, 50%
the cca was 245 (rated 650)

Replaced with a new battery.. and all is well again.
 
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There was some review somewhere (maybe linked in this thread) that the solar thingamajig did not show mOhms.

My manual says the "bottom" bar graph (it's on top???) displays "capacity" but IDK if it's in amp hours or CCAs. My truck battery has very low amp hours or another major problem: goes from a no start to a perfect start after 20 minutes at 6 amp charge. Still shows 320 CCA out of 600 rated (or a similar ratio) and 55% or so on the bar graph. So I am not convinced the bar graph is anything different than another readout of CCA, based solely on my anecdotal observations and lousily written manual.

Incidentally, ebay watchers, a used one just went for $32 shipped. I had high hopes
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it would go cheaply as it was misspelled "Centec" in the description.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
There was some review somewhere (maybe linked in this thread) that the solar thingamajig did not show mOhms.

My manual says the "bottom" bar graph (it's on top???) displays "capacity" but IDK if it's in amp hours or CCAs. My truck battery has very low amp hours or another major problem: goes from a no start to a perfect start after 20 minutes at 6 amp charge. Still shows 320 CCA out of 600 rated (or a similar ratio) and 55% or so on the bar graph. So I am not convinced the bar graph is anything different than another readout of CCA, based solely on my anecdotal observations and lousily written manual.

Incidentally, ebay watchers, a used one just went for $32 shipped. I had high hopes
smirk.gif
it would go cheaply as it was misspelled "Centec" in the description.


CCA is a measure of power, whereas Ah is a measure of energy.

To the poster with the forrester battery, if the OM doesnt show a CCA rating for replacement, Id either go to interstate battery and see what the ratings are for the lower-end batteries and assume that, or else call subaru and see what the ratings are on the replacement battery.

There may be a way to assume CCA from Ah by looking at other SLI batteries and seeing their ratings for max discharge current relative to their Ah capacity. I will look at some spec sheets tomorrow and see if I can give a guesstimate.

TO the poster asking about the solar, that only gives you CCA relative to the original capacity of the battery. That is a dummy data point that isnt telling of much. Id much rather know the battery impedance which will be indicative of power, and the retained reserve capacity.
 
If it shows capacity in amp-hours, where's the scale? It's just a bar graph.
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Not being argumentative, it's just that the manual is vague.

The clips on this thing are starting to really anger me. The plastic on the sides cover the metal alligator portion in such a manner that they're well nigh impossible to clip securely on GM side posts. And if I do, moving the meter tugs on the stiff wires and yanks a clip loose.
 
You are right. It just shows a bar graph. Why? Not sure. But CCA isnt directly dependent upon Ah, so there isnt a straight correlation.

I do wish that the clamps opened a bit more.

I can run the meter without moving it, but there are a few shortcomings, which can be overcome.
 
well i just had time to research my battery its a 55D23L
which if you put in the correct 350CCA .. it tests fine.

which kinda brings up WTH DID SUBARU SPEC A 350CCA(48AH) BATTERY.

the lights literally go off in the car if you are cranking around 0F

also it has all the electron do-dads .. like heated seats mirrors, window(s) wiper nozzles,
fog lights, headlights, wipers, blower motor...
I can literally drain the battery to 60% WITH THE ENGINE IDLING in under 30min.. and I'm not saying I'm trying to.

oh ya radio with mini sub too.
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The battery is only made to start the car. Sure it does other things. But your alternator should handle all the load when the engine is running. The CCA of your battery should not come into play.

Maybe your alternator is not up to snuff? Could be 1 of the 6 diodes (in the bridge) is bad. Have it checked by a place with an oscilloscope.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
The battery is only made to start the car. Sure it does other things. But your alternator should handle all the load when the engine is running. The CCA of your battery should not come into play.

Maybe your alternator is not up to snuff? Could be 1 of the 6 diodes (in the bridge) is bad. Have it checked by a place with an oscilloscope.


how many amps does an average alt put out at 750rpm
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: Donald
The battery is only made to start the car. Sure it does other things. But your alternator should handle all the load when the engine is running. The CCA of your battery should not come into play.

Maybe your alternator is not up to snuff? Could be 1 of the 6 diodes (in the bridge) is bad. Have it checked by a place with an oscilloscope.


how many amps does an average alt put out at 750rpm


More than a generator. Thats why they went to alternators in the mid 1970s.
 
But he has a point; an alternator most likely will NOT be able to provide all of the (aftermarket devices) load at 750 rpm. Most specification instruct to rev the engine at 2000 before doing the alternator test.

Having said that, if you are getting flickering BAT/ALT light at idle, get the alternator changed/serviced.

- Vikas
 
Sorry for getting this post off topic.

I dont have any flickering lights.
also all the devices are factory equipment.. no aftermarket.

they put a 48AH/350CCA battery in here. I dont usually let it idle but I had to go over to my fathers and take my stepmom grocery shopping during a snowstorm.. She takes forever.. I stayed in my car. I got home and next morning the car barely started in the 0F weather. I tested battery and it came back 60% charged.. The only answer that fits this is the battery ran down while I was idling in the parking lot during the snowstorm with the accessories on (so windows didnt ice up etc)

by barely started I mean it turned over very slow.. it still started within 5s.. I wasnt cranking it for 30s or anything.

I put the battery on charge.. and it seems to stay fully charged for the most part. I just think its asinine they put such a little battery in this thing with all the factory equipment. 350CCA/48AH isnt very much.
 
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Put a voltmeter and see what it shows under the similar conditions. A running engine should not draw from battery under any (well, at least under normal) conditions. The BAT/ALT light should turn on otherwise.

The small battery is not the problem. Small alternator could be though.

- Vikas
 
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