How long do you run a serpentine belt?

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Probably can safely go 70k, but much depends on how many years? I think 6 years is a good max.
 
until the ribs starts to show signs of wear, belt rubber becomes glazed and or that nasty "rushing" sound.

This will typically be good for 6~9yrs in our area; dependent to operational conditions and or brand/rubber compound.

Continental (VW /Audi OEM) and Gates will lats 9yrs; IMHO cheeper DAyco and/or Goodyear typically lasts 3~6yrs. Some Korean stuff would lasts somewhere in between the 2 grades.

Q.
 
Till it squeals or throws chunks.

I figure it's *good* for the tensioner to have a seasoned belt, so its spring isn't held as tightly as it would be with a new belt.
 
Proper alignment of pullys and regular checking of belt tension help a belt last a long time. Miles driven and and underhood conditions have an effect. The last Toyota belt I replaced did show signs of tooth chunking at about 200K.
 
I typically just inspect the belt every oil change and when cracks start showing I replace it. I believe commonly within the industry it's recommended whenever there are more than 3 cracks per inch of belt.
 
Interesting you mention it. My oriellys is giving out free belt checker tool. If it goes into the grooves its bad if it sits on top its good. New belt apparently don't crack like the old ones did. I usually replace mine when I see a reason to.
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Cracks are part of what helps it flex "inside out". Have seen them go with many more cracks per inch.
 
"A long dang time." I'd say 60k miles/5 years is pretty safe without wasting money.

I sure don't miss V-belts. Yes, its kinda neat to see my old Mopars with 4 different belts spinning the various accessories, but what a hassle compared to a single serpentine. Carry one spare belt and the tool(s) to change it, and you're good to go.

The only downside is that something as trivial as a seized tensioner or one seized accessory can stop you dead if the belt turns the water pump. Otherwise you can limp in without an alternator or P/S.
 
What about just an OEM belt? That way you know it's at least same or better quality as original, right? Or are they way more expensive? Seems like $30 or so is cheap insurance for a broken belt...
 
The OEM belt on my 2007 Civic has 130,000 on it and still looks serviceable for continued use.

I've been monitoring it since 100k which is the recommended change interval. I even bought the replacement belt which has now been sitting in the garage for close to a year. Lol.

I'll keep running it until it starts to really show signs of degrading. I figure that would be in the next 20k or so. I'll replace it @ 150,000 with the OEM belt and forget about it for another 150,000

I don't think one should follow a set interval. It's a rubber belt and degraded differently based on belt quality and weather conditions.
 
2002 ranger 4.0 I had a quote for 129$ for the belt at the dealer.

Still looked fine.. went to AZ.. they gave me the wrong belt
(listed same belt for 3.0 and 4.0 3.0 = 3" longer)

Special ordered a gatorback for 32$ from... federal? I think.

I replaced it because it was 5yr old and was squeaking bad.. also did an idler pulley but the new one was horrid junk so I returned it and replaced the pulley bearing instead.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
The OEM belt on my 2007 Civic has 130,000 on it and still looks serviceable for continued use.


I think that's why time is more of a factor than miles. My 07 with 60k miles probably looks the same as yours with 130k miles. We can both change them at 6 years,
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My current one has over 90K on it and looks brand new. The original was replaced under warranty along with the idler due to noise about 8 or 9 years ago. I'm going to wait until chunks start coming out of the ribs before replacing. The ribs don't even have cracks yet.

The one on my other Ranger had cracks at around 60K miles and got replaced with a Gatorback.

Cracks/chunks = go ahead and buy a belt and plan for replacement
No cracks/chunks = should be good for a while
 
OEM belt on my '00 E430 has 13x,xxx miles on it and still looks good for continued use. I checked the belt and others under the hood once a month.

Serpentine belt is much better now than it was 20-30 years ago.
 
While recently doing an under-hood check on my V70, I noticed that the ribs on my serp. belt were hard, glazed and badly cracked. It had been in there for 51,700 mi, about 6yrs-3mos. This was a Conti-Tech belt, not a cheap one. Pretty good considering the heat here in Central Tx is brutal. Still looked fine on top. Frankly, I'm amazed it's been that long since I changed it.

I pulled it off and gave the idler pulley a spin. zzzzzzzzzzt. Very dry, but was original. The tensioner pulley spun nicely but said tsst....tsst.....tsst.....tsst when I spun it. It was also original. Just finished replacing both of these and the belt.
 
It's really hard to tell sometimes. One of the 6.0 PSD Ford vans at the company I worked for last shredded its belt at just over 70,000 miles. From what I remember seeing, the belt still looked quite servicable shortly before it gave. Granted, the vehicle did see frequent WOT accelerations from 0-70 mph from the freeway shoulder, so the belt was subjected to lots of rapid RPM changes.

Usually my rule of thumb is: if the belt is squeaking during startup and/or cold weather, change it. Squeaking (to me) means that the rubber has hardened and likely began cracking. The van I just mentioned had quite the squeaky belt for several months before it gave.
 
When the belt wears enough to be all the way in the pulleys. It is supposed to ride on the tapered ribs, not all the way down to it's base.
 
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