Honda bushing: OEM v. MOOG v. Raybestos

[JZiggy]

Hey guys,

I figured I'd ask this question here rather than Hondatech... more true technical experts and less ricers!

I need to replace the trailing arm bushings on the rear lower control arms of my 95 Civic. I was in there changing the struts this week and found that they are basically blown out.

OEM - ~$45
MOOG - $25
Raybestos Professional - $33

I have heard differing opions. Some say always OEM. Some say the aftermarket is even higher quality than OEM.

I'd like to hear some thoughts on this. Thanks!

 

[mechanicx]

My vote would be for the OEM. Some aftermarket parts and brands like Moog are usually decent but almost never really better quality than original and the exact spec. Is that the best price you can get on the OEM part? I know it is just a bushing but sometimes an automaker can spec different durometers for different models and the aftermarket will be a general spec. Not saying that is necesserally the case here.

 

[JZiggy]

Yes it seems to be the best price. It's a pretty chunky part, so I'm really not surprised that it is so pricey. It has a heavy metal sleeve and an insert in the middle with holes.

 

[Mud]

I've always had good success with MOOG. In this case, they are the lowest price too

You can go to rockauto.com plus do some internet searches on raybestos pro parts, I've used them for brake parts with good luck as well.

 

[Donald]

RockAuto carries MOOG parts. Just got 4 tie rod ends for my Jeep.

I would go with Moog or OEM. IMHO Moog is as good as OEM.

 

[ET16]

I like Moog, too.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: JZiggy
OEM - ~$45
MOOG - $25
Raybestos Professional - $33

Replacing those bushings is a time-consuming, tedious job. For $20 extra, it's worth it to me to go with OE and do the job ONCE.

In fact, that's exactly what I did do, when I replaced my own bushings. And I'm ever so glad I did: Nine years now, and they're almost as good as new. Find me an aftermarket bushing which will do that.

 

[atikovi]

It's a 17 year old car and if the originals lasted most of those years, I'd replace them with the same.

 

[ltslimjim]

OEM first, MOOG second if you have to choose because of cost.

Can't go wrong with either, more than likely.

I've got a 92 hatch that has creaking when going over speed bumps from the front and the rear suspension. Is this bushing or the control arms themselves?

The shop that replaced my clutch recently said the suspension was good, but what would be making the creaking? Rust/bad contact at the strut tower/mount area??? I thought perhaps the bushings too were worn out...

Any tips thanks, since it's similar to the OP issue.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
OEM first, MOOG second if you have to choose because of cost.

Can't go wrong with either, more than likely.

You will go wrong with aftermarket in the sense that you will spend that saved-$20 anyway--and more--replacing the aftermarket bushings after they fail far sooner than the OE ones would.

If the savings were $450 (as they are for aftermarket Honda rads versus OE Honda rads), then I'd say go for aftermarket. But for a measly $20? Why chance it? Bushing replacement is a thankless, tedious job, as I said before. Especially if you're doing it yourself, you want to do it ONCE and be done with it.

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I've got a 92 hatch that has creaking when going over speed bumps from the front and the rear suspension. Is this bushing or the control arms themselves?

What state do you live in, or what state did the car spend most of its life in?

 

[ltslimjim]

Georgia, southern US...but it saw higher elevation/hilly roads, which is why the PO wore the clutch out by the time I got it at 230,000.

PS: I only suggested MOOG b/c of the popularity, not some ripoff aftermarket.

 

[garlicbreadman]

oem, it will outlast the car

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Georgia, southern US...but it saw higher elevation/hilly roads, which is why the PO wore the clutch out by the time I got it at 230,000.

Are you replying to my questions? Lack of quoting has me wondering.

Is the suspension entirely original? Creaks in the rear are usually characteristic of aftermarket parts, not original Honda.

Can you replicate the creaks by pushing on the fenders and inducing an up-and-down cycling?

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Georgia, southern US...but it saw higher elevation/hilly roads, which is why the PO wore the clutch out by the time I got it at 230,000.

Are you replying to my questions? Lack of quoting has me wondering.

Is the suspension entirely original? Creaks in the rear are usually characteristic of aftermarket parts, not original Honda.

Can you replicate the creaks by pushing on the fenders and inducing an up-and-down cycling?



No idea truly. (Yes, I was replying to your question of where I drove my vehicle).

I think the front has a replacement part of some sort from a previous front-end wreck by a Previous Owner. I doubt anyone has ever touched the rear suspension. Possible, but not likely. So, other than the driver-side front having some-sort of replacement part(I'd have to ask the last shop I used to verify what exactly, may not even be suspension related), the rest is probably Original Equipment. The shop I had give me feedback said the suspension 'was good'.

I'll do the replication test.

 

[artificialist]

If an OEM suspension part lasts 150,000 miles or more, I say buy another OEM part.

Do not fall for the "OE Brand" named part, it is a generic junk part made in China.

 

[ltslimjim]

^True, can't go wrong with getting a dealership part in this scenario. Especially if you aren't wanting to change your ride at all.