Filling nail holes in stained wood.

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JHZR2

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Hi,

Put up a tongue and groove, shellac'ed ceiling on my original enclosed porch in my early 30's home. True to the style that was used in NJ construction at the time.

So, after a while of not doing it, I finally put up cove moulding around the edge.

So now I have small holes from the finish nails. All the wood is mineax 233, English chestnut. They sell wood filler that is tinted, old American color, which they claim to be the match. It isn't exact, so I'd like a better option. What to do?

Stainable wood filler then stain with the right stuff?

Will the spots stand out if I don't shellac them over? They are bostich finish nail holes.

Thanks!
 
Doesn't matter what you do the filler will take stain differently then the lumber will. I would try to find something that is closest match to your finished colour.
 
I would pick a wood filler thats close but slightly lighter. if its a bit darker it will draw your eye. If you have any scrap wood sand some and save the powder, make your own filler with a bit of glue.
 
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Use the colored wood filler and it's best to use one that is a little darker than the finished wood. I used to work in custom cabinetry and after we put up crown moulding, we always used the pre-colored putty/filler that was a little darker than the finished wood.
 
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If I use stainable filler, cant I stain it exactly? Wouldnt that be better than going for one shade lighter/darker?

Or do I get filler that is slightly lighter and then put stain on it to go one shade darker to be exact?
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
If you have any scrap wood sand some and save the powder, make your own filler with a bit of glue.


I could do that, but then do I mix the stain in with the glue?
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I would pick a wood filler thats close but slightly lighter. if its a bit darker it will draw your eye. If you have any scrap wood sand some and save the powder, make your own filler with a bit of glue.

Ha. It doesn't work. Glue will not take stain. You will end up with a less than nice finish and drilling out that junk to do it properly.
 
As a fellow old-house junkie, here are my thoughts: are the nails in the rest of your house's molding puttied/filled in? Mine are, and they're filled in with wood putty that was probably mixed on-site, and it's noticeably darker. So when I added on the section to the back of the house, I did them in-kind to match up. OTOH, in many older houses you can see the nails. In that case, I'd do the same, and not fill them in.

The tendency is often to make new molding look cabinet-quality, and this is just uncommon in all except the most baller of old homes. So, to my eye, it looks weird and doesn't fit the house if you make it look "too good".
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p.s I had to laugh at your hammer thread. I've bought a lot of "second" tools doing the exact same thing..."I can't find it, and I need it now!". I actually have a second portable table saw I bought under those same circumstances!
 
Next time get an pneumatic nail gun. The tiny nails make such a tiny hole you almost cannot see them.

I agree with getting a slightly lighter tinted wood putty.
 
You'll never nail an exact color for wood fill. Over the years I've made my own fillers with sawdust [from the wood used], some glue, and stain, mix it into a puddy, it has worked well. It takes a good eye for color and knowing how to get the right mix. An easier way which gives pretty good results is the Minwax wax pencils in the color of the stain you used.

Another trick is to use small nails to secure the trim, or tell the carpenter to do so. I've followed some real hacks over the years that used spikes for finishing trim work. I've also followed some of the best carpenters around, they used the right nails and made my job doing the finish work a lot easier.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
They are Bostich finish nail holes.



Bostich could imply it was a nail gun. But either way - I was faced with such a dilemma on some trim, so as crazy as it sounds I took a scrap piece of finished trim to True Value with a paint matching set-up. This will only work if the wood is very evenly stained - anyway they color analyzed the stain and mixed a quart (yeah huge) of latex paint that was a serious good match. I just filled the holes, then with an artist brush dabbed the paint on. Even the areas that were lighter or darker it still looks natural. I know this will not work for many finishes and woods, but worth suggesting.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
If I use stainable filler, cant I stain it exactly? Wouldnt that be better than going for one shade lighter/darker?

Or do I get filler that is slightly lighter and then put stain on it to go one shade darker to be exact?

I wouldn't use the stainable stuff, we used it when filling holes on doors we built for cabinets where the rails were nailed together before staining and finishing. It didn't look any better or worse than finding a wax putty that was a bit darker and using it on a finished product. The owner of the shop and their installer who were both in the business for a long time said always use putty that was little darker than the finished wood, a lot of woods darken over time. The bigger the hole the more it will stand out, but it's really not something normal people notice. For example in cheaper cabinet doors I could pick out belt sander lines that normal people (people who didn't work finishing wood) would miss. You'll know it's there, but I doubt anyone else will notice or care. Good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Next time get an pneumatic nail gun. The tiny nails make such a tiny hole you almost cannot see them.

I agree with getting a slightly lighter tinted wood putty.


ummm, i did this with a bostich fn62
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll never nail an exact color for wood fill. Over the years I've made my own fillers with sawdust [from the wood used], some glue, and stain, mix it into a puddy, it has worked well. It takes a good eye for color and knowing how to get the right mix. An easier way which gives pretty good results is the Minwax wax pencils in the color of the stain you used.

Another trick is to use small nails to secure the trim, or tell the carpenter to do so. I've followed some real hacks over the years that used spikes for finishing trim work. I've also followed some of the best carpenters around, they used the right nails and made my job doing the finish work a lot easier.


the thing with the pencils, like the minwax putty, is that there is one color, old american, IIRC, that is supposedly the "match" for four or five colors. To my eye, it isnt.

I used minimal small nails, didnt even nail to every stud as it was sturdy enough.

wax pencils i can likely mix and get a good color. do they really work as well as a putty?
 
on your next similar project try using "grab it" (an instant stick adhesive) instead of nails. as for the nail holes, the only person that will notice will be you.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll never nail an exact color for wood fill. Over the years I've made my own fillers with sawdust [from the wood used], some glue, and stain, mix it into a puddy, it has worked well. It takes a good eye for color and knowing how to get the right mix. An easier way which gives pretty good results is the Minwax wax pencils in the color of the stain you used.

Another trick is to use small nails to secure the trim, or tell the carpenter to do so. I've followed some real hacks over the years that used spikes for finishing trim work. I've also followed some of the best carpenters around, they used the right nails and made my job doing the finish work a lot easier.


This. You will NOT get a filler to match exactly in the pre-colored ones. The kind you fill 1st and then stain over NEVER take the stain the way the wood does. As you sand the filler down it hardens it and almost glazes it over. Same principle as body filler. Makes it hard for the stain to sink in. Even individual pieces of wood take stain differently. I have never liked the Minwax putty pencils.

I too have used the saw dust and glue trick. Use really fine sawdust( basically powder )however or it makes the putty surface rough( like an open grain which makes it stain darker ). I never mixed the stain with it 1st though. I always filled the hole with the glue/sawdust mixture, let it drty, then sanded it and just stained as I was doing the entire piece. I also have found this works better on light colored projects vs dark ones. It seems to work really well on oak and pine using a light to medium colored stain like Golden Oak.

Your best option is to stain a scrap and take it to the store and find the closest pre-colored one you can and just go with it. Assuming you use small finish nails( all a moulding needs )and set them with a small nailset the holes to fill wiill be small and disappear once all are filled IF you get a putty that is close.

Make sure you stain the wood BEFORE putting pre-colored putty in. Don't put it in 1st. IF you will do more than one coat of shellac/poly/lacquer/whatever do one coat before putting putty in( actually makes it easier to do ). Once you are ready to put the putty in only take a small bit out of the jar( about the size of as grape max ). Roll it in your fingers to warm it and make it pliable.

Once it is warm and pliable take a small piece off and roll it into a thin log like shape with a point on one end you can put into the hole. Press straight in so it fills the hole fully and then pull off to the side and away in a quick motion so it breaks but leaves the hole filled. Use a clean soft rag to lightly wipe off any extra( don't press down hard on it ). Only put enough in the hole to fill it. Try not to gob it all over and press it in to fill it. That will actually stain the wood if it doesn't have at least one coat of finish on it( shellac, poly, etc... I don't mean the stain ). It will really look bad if you fill it like that on bare wood.

Note - once you fill the holes and then do your final top coat be advised as the top coat dries it might cause the putty to be pulled out slightly and leave a small bump if you don't get the hole filled fully. Highon a cellling it is not an issue. On finish work down low you may have to lightly sand it then do one last top coat( if you care ).

Before I got sick and became unable to do it anymore I used to build cabinets( entertainment centers, gun cabinets, armoire's, wine racks, etc... )plus I did a lot of finish carpentry in new homes so I have done this a lot. The above is how I was taught to fill the holes and it works well. Get the putty color even 90% close and once it is all finished they will vanish. Certainly to those who don't know where the holes are. Well, assuming you used small nails and a proper nail set. Huge nail holes that have been fiilled show no matter how close the putty color gets.

I used to get a filler that came in powdered form. You actually mixed it with some of the stain you used and then filled the holes with that before sanding the piece. Once top coated it was the closest thing to invisible I have seen. It disappeared from stores around here though years ago? No idea if it is still made or not? Came in a little white plastic tub( sort of like a spackle tub )with brown writing/emblem. Can't recall the brand name sorry. IF you find some it is great stuff. However it has to be top coated with at elast 2 coats or it falls out. Just FYI.

Here are some items I had to fill holes in. Light or dark it doesn't matter it is hard to make them vanish completely...

guncab3.jpg

TVCab2.jpg

TVCab1.jpg


I am adding this photo to show you what I meant about what happens if you glod the filler on and how it can stain the wood. If you look just under the top, on the trim moulding, you will see 3 dark spots( the worst is at far left ). I was newer to making things and as a result I got in a hurry( never hurry finish work! )and pressed too hard which spread the pre-colored putty/filler out. I didn't wipe it right off as I should have either and let it sit for a few minutes. The stain in the putty itself sucked right into the graining of the moulding and actually discolored it pretty bad in a couple spots. There are finish nails in the face frame styles but you can't see the putty because I did that properly. I didn't notice those putty stains on the trim moulding until it was already delivered( requires the right light - you wouldn't notice it unless at the right angle with the right light - just so glaring in the photo due to the flash and how clsoe I am ). I ended up refinishing the piece and replacing that moulding as I couldn't sand it clean to my satisfaction.
WineRack.jpg


Hope this helps you out. It may seem awful long winded for so simple of a thing but you can really mess up fine wood working with messy putty technique. Good luck with it.

cheers3.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll never nail an exact color for wood fill. Over the years I've made my own fillers with sawdust [from the wood used], some glue, and stain, mix it into a putty, it has worked well. It takes a good eye for color and knowing how to get the right mix. An easier way which gives pretty good results is the Minwax wax pencils in the color of the stain you used.

Another trick is to use small nails to secure the trim, or tell the carpenter to do so. I've followed some real hacks over the years that used spikes for finishing trim work. I've also followed some of the best carpenters around, they used the right nails and made my job doing the finish work a lot easier.


the thing with the pencils, like the minwax putty, is that there is one color, old american, IIRC, that is supposedly the "match" for four or five colors. To my eye, it isnt.

I used minimal small nails, didnt even nail to every stud as it was sturdy enough.

wax pencils i can likely mix and get a good color. do they really work as well as a putty?


Wax pencils are hit or miss, as you've discovered, sometimes they are spot on other times they aren't. They can be mixed but its tough. It is also best to apply them [or any filler] after a first coat of poly is applied, the wax/filler must only go into the hole being filled, and not smeared onto the wood. A first coat of poly won't allow the stain in the filler to find its way into the wood screwing things up. I suggested making your own putty with saw dust, glue and stain. It takes some time and some skill. I've been doing it for 30+ years now so it might be a bit easier for me, than someone attempting it the first time.

What you can do it get a scrap of trim, shoot some nails through it, stain it and finish it and experiment with it. Conveying how to do it in print is tough.

Also keep this in mind, just like body work no matter how good the repair man is that does the work a person with a good eye will spot the repair, same goes here. Good luck with your project.
 
thanks for all the info. Its m project for the day. Will try a few things.

I had pre-stained the moulding before putting it up, and there is a coat of shellac on it already, so we will see how it goes!
 
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