Delvac 15w-40, 10k miles, 06 GMC LBZ Duramax

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Good morning. This is my first post. I read BITOG a year or 2 ago & have been stuck on learning more since. So, thank you in advance to your responses. I will definitely heed them.

My truck is stated above. It currently has 111,800 miles on her. I bought her in February 2010. Below are my 1st & 2nd readings.
Oil is Delvac 15w-40 for both UOAs; service is Blackstone. (edited by moderator 1-6-12 for oil information update).

MI/HR on Oil: 10,281, 6,350
MI/HR on Unit: 102,363, 98,432
Sample Date: 03/18/11, 12/30/10
Make Up Oil Added: 0 qts, 0 QTS

ALUMINUM: 3, 1
CHROMIUM: 0, 0
IRON: 10, 5
COPPER: 2, 1
LEAD: 1, 0
TIN: 0, 1
MOLYBDENUM: 51, 37
NICKEL: 0, 0
MANGANESE: 0, 0
SILVER: 0, 0
TITANIUM: 0, 0
POTASSIUM: 3, 1
BORON: 45, 39
SILICON: 4, 4
SODIUM: 6, 5
CALCIUM: 1389, 1216
MAGNESIUM: 843, 762
PHOSPHORUS: 950, 803
ZINC: 1134, 801
BARIUM: 0, 0

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F: 74, 74.2
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C: 13.99, 14.04
Flashpoint in °F: 440, 415
Fuel %: Antifreeze %: 0, 0
Water %: 0, 0
Insolubles %: .2, .2
TBN: 7.6, 8.8

From what I've read so far, I think these numbers are good. The oil since I have purchased the truck has been Mobil Delvac 1300 15/40. I like the idea of the T6 5/40 due to the cold weather we get up here in New England. I even ran it in Vegas when I was out there when I had my old 2002 7.3 PS with no issues. My reason for wanting to switch is the pour point. I think. I'm not sold on synthetic after all I've read. I'm now also starting to see T5 10/30. Is it safe in these 6.6's? I want to get the oil up and moving in the engine as soon as possible, but don't want it too thin. Should I go 5/40 or 10/30?

My apologies for the formatting.
 
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Hello, Welcome and HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!

Nice looking UOA report and shows you how easy the DMAX engine is on oil. I am jealous and want one !!!
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Dnewton3 will probably be along later to comment more in depth but do a search to read some of his posts. He has a wealth of information to share so sit back pour favorite beverage and enjoy.

Once again Welcome and Hope you enjoy the site
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Wecome to the site!
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Very good numbers, as we expect to see with a Dmax.

Would like to know what oil was used for those two UOAs? Brand and grade, please. I'll update the title/post when I get the info. That will help others when searching data as well. Also would like to know what lab service you used, please.

After 10k miles, your wear numbers are low, the vis is good, the FP and insolubles are well under control, and the TBN is outstanding. I see no reason you could not use that same fluid for longer intervals; I would think 12k miles is certainly doable, and probably more (15k miles are quite likely attainable with the great condition of your fluid). UOA confirmations along the way would be a good idea. Both UOAs show you are at or below "universal averages" for wear; that's great for you!

Are you using the OLM? What details can you give us about how the OLM is fairing, relative to these UOA numbers?

You can use T6 for sure, and it is a great fluid, but unless you greatly extend your OCI you're not going to get any return for the higher price paid. Synthetics, generally, do not protect "better" at short to moderate OCI durations. They will typically protect much "longer" though.

If winter temps are your concern, then perhaps use a 10w-30 HDEO year round. That's what I do. GM recommends 15w-40 down to zero F as the "preferred" fluid, but they also approve of 5w-40 and 10w-30.

Please spend some time enjoying the other Dmax UOAs here; I think you'll begin to see how well a Dmax will run, and how oil brand/grade selection is simply not a big issue to the Dmax as long as it's a properly spec'd fluid.
 
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Look over this link; page 16 ...
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/Publications/UsedOil/2008020.pdf
Here you will see a list of condemnation levels for contaminants from various OEMs.

As you can see, there is variation in the condemnation levels, but these are probably safe levels for the Dmax as well. There is not "100%" assurance that a Dmax (or any other engine for that matter) will be perfect, or damaged, at these leveles, but when you see many of the global OEMs have some reasonable concensus on levels, you can make some fair assumptions. After all, the condemnation levels are for you to decide. One can draw some generalizations that Fe at 100+, Cu at 30+, Al at 15+, Pb at 30+, TBN at 2+ would be acceptable.

The thing to understand is that there is a difference between rates and totals. High wear and contamination/depletion rates indicate that a lube will not last long in service, but does not mean the lube is to be dumped yet. Condemnation levels speak nothing to the rate of degredation, but do point to an ultimate limit where "safe" operation ceases. Using the two together will allow for good decisions as when to change oil.

All that in mind, you ran 10k miles on that last load. Looking at my suggested levels above, you can run WAY, WAY further than that 10k miles. Your TBN is very high still, your wear metals are very low, and your contaminant intrusion is almost non-existent. In short, your totals are low and your rates are low. Your engine and oil are working in concert together VERY well.

Although most people would cringe at the idea, and label you a heretic, there is no logical reason in your situation the oil could not sustain 25k+ miles, if the current rates were to stay fairly consistent. For warranty purposes, GM allows for use of the OLM, or one year, whichever comes first. Yes, I'm aware that the OLM is likely not going to allow for 25k miles. For a 2006 LBZ it's not an issue for warranty. That is the OEM's way of limiting their exposure to risk; they take a conservative approach so that they have little concern for damage during warranty. The OEMs simply don't care how much you spend on oil, because it's not their money. Their monetary risk is in the warranty and reputation, not the lube.

I'm not saying it is necessary to run 25k miles on the dino oil in your situation; I'm simply pointing out that it can be done. I'm noting that many people condem their oil WAY before it's used up. They look at the odometer and have some preconcieved notion in their head, and really don't understand the benefits and limitations of lubes.

What's interesting to note is that there are some recent Dmax and ISB UOAs here that point to dino oils being able to easily hit the 20k mile mark. BigGreyMegaCab has a series of UOAs that show 20k miles on his ISB with dino Valvoline Premium Blue are most certainly doable. Ponch ran his Dmax for 9k miles with HARD service factor, and it was suggested he head for 11k miles; frankly the numbers suggest he could go well more than that on his dino Rotella. Your own Delvac dino UOA points to 20k miles easily. All this based upon decent wear rates and reasonable condemnation levels. I note that it's certainly not true for a dino oil to go 20k miles in all engines in all situations, but the idea to glean here is that dino oils CAN easily hit 20k miles in today's clean running diesels, under the right conditions.

It makes me ponder my own OCI plan, which is simply annual. I have a 2006 LBZ as well. Up until now, I did annual OCIs to placate the warranty issue; I never hit the OLM limit. But now that my warranty has expired, I seriously need to consider two-year OCIs, with my average mileage at 7k miles a year.

I guess we all need to reconsider what the term "extended OCI" really means with today's engines and oils. It might be much further than we think?

Food for thought.
 
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That is outstanding to hear. I just took another sample with an oil change. The change was not due to shying away from extended drain intervals, but we have had a few days of chilly weather here in New England. Around 15 - 20 degrees. The first morning I went to start her, the motor sounded awful due to the 15W40 taking so long to cycle through the motor. It seriously made me cringe.
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I have done some research on this forum as well as referencing the supplemental manual that came with the truck and decided to switch to the HDEO Rotella 10W30. I will initially send a sample @ 5K knowing there will be remnants of the Delvac in there. I just could not justify the 5W40 Rotella.

If all goes well and I can extend my drain intervals to 15K, then I will be ecstatic. My only other question would be, at what time would I swap out the oil filter? I can't imagine a filter lasting 15K - 20K miles.

Thank you again for the information. It is greatly appreciated.
 
Your UOA shows the insolubles as low. That means the filter is doing it's job, and it's not overwhelmed at the current interval.

I would encourage you to understand that we cannot give you blind advice, and without seeing the actual relationship you have (your engine, your operating conditions, etc), we have no idea how long a filter will last. The true answer comes from a PC (particle count analysis). Just like a UOA tells of the oil health, a PC can confirm the effectiveness and longevity of a filter. Using these tools together, you can really get a good idea how well your combination is working.

Here is a massive generalization ...
Using a good quality filter, you should be able to last the duration of the OCI. For up to 15k miles or a bit more, I would not hesitate to use a Wix, PureOne, Donaldson, Baldwin, Fleetguard, etc. Others such as Mobil 1 and Amsoil are probably capable of much more.


Here is my short series of LBZ UOAs using 10w-30, including the one from this summer:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2323660&page=1
I'm still on Rotella 10w-30 right now, and plan to be as long as the costs bear it to be a good choice.
 
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