What to put on top of rust for winter?

[ElliottG]

Hey guys

Didn't really know where to post this so putting it here.

The past few years I have put red and tacky grease #2 on some rust spots on my cars to "stop" or slow them down during the winter months until I can fix them in the summer...

The only problem with this stuff is that it's super hard to get off when it does come to summer...and I was looking for something a little easier.

My uncle recommended Vaseline...would this work?

Thanks guys,
Elliott

 

[JHZR2]

Krown T-40. It is thicker so will stay, but should be able to be removed if need be.

 

[jcwit]

Fluid Film in a spray can, available at most John Deere Dealers. Very tacky and will stay put.

 

[ahoier]

How about Rust Reformer and be done...? Or it is not that easy? Sorry, just decided to "chime in" as my 88 Aries is developing some rust here and there.....and yes...don't want it to get "done in" this winter.....

How does the various "Rust Reformers" work....? Rustoleum has an aerosol, that makes it sound like you just lightly sand away the paint/bugs/tar/etc....and spray a good layer on it and good to go...? Or is it not that easy??

 

[2cool]

I have not had good results with the rust "converter" products. You have to leave some rust for the converter to convert. Does good on the surface, but the rust comes back.
+1 to jcwit for the Fluid-film.

 

[slalom44]

If you see rust bubbling up, it's because the rust started from the other side (or at a crevice) and the rust has already worked its way through. You need to get to the other side (or into the crevice) to protect it.
If you're just looking at surface rust, then all you have to do is protect it from further oxidation. There are two methods: a barrier coating, or a sacrificial coating.

Barrier coatings prevent further oxidation (rusting) by preventing the surface from coming in contact with moisture - especially salt water. Grease works fine as long as it stays put. Paint doesn't wash off. These are barrier coatings.

Sacrificial coatings prevent rusting by acting as the sacrificial anode to prevent galvanic attack. Most pitting and crevice corrosion is galvanic corrosion which sets up a small electric current, attacking the metal that is lowest in the galvanic series. Since Zinc is lower than iron in the series, the galvanic cell will attack the zinc, sacrificing itself to prevent pitting corrosion of other metal in the cell (steel). That's why car bodies are galvanized. Galvanic corrosion usually takes place in a crevice or between metal and another surface.

If you use a paint with zinc in it, it will do a good job of acting as a sacrificial anode. Many primers and paints intended for use on metal have zinc in it.

Just a suggestion.....

 

[spackard]

Also, from something I read the iron rust, Fe-O, the O- is free to jump from one Fe+ to another Fe+, so a panel will continue to rust even though you surface-coat it.
Al-O is different; I'm not sure why but the O- is trapped with the Al+, so Al forms a protective oxide surface which protects, in normal conditions, the Aluminum from further oxidation.

You really have to remove all the rust and convert what little is left in order to kill the rust for good.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Krown T-40. It is thicker so will stay, but should be able to be removed if need be.



THIS.

 

[ElliottG]

Thanks guys I will have to look into the Krown T-40. I've heard only good things about their rust protection services but have never heard of this product. Any ideas on where to buy it?

Also...Krown T-40 vs Fluid film? Which one is better? I basically want something that I won't have to replace every week...the conditions are disgusting here.

And yes I am just "protecting" surface rust...I know it's not rusting from behind.

 

[OVERKILL]

You will have a Krown dealer in your town, you can swing by and grab a can from them. Some of the auto parts stores also carry it.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
Fluid Film in a spray can, available at most John Deere Dealers. Very tacky and will stay put.


Is this it?

 

[xxch4osxx]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
You will have a Krown dealer in your town, you can swing by and grab a can from them. Some of the auto parts stores also carry it.
I have a can of T-40 here right beside me, I got it when I got my pick-up undercoated. I think I paid $8.00 for it. It is made in Canada and contains no solvents or silicone

 

[jcwit]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Fluid Film in a spray can, available at most John Deere Dealers. Very tacky and will stay put.


Is this it?


Yup! Thats it, basically lanolin with a carrier. Very effective.

Its to bad we don't have Krown or many RustChex available here in the rust belt of the U.S. There a few Rust Chex here tho, Have one in South Bend, Indiana

 

[Cujet]

LPS-3, AV-30, Cosmoline, Par-al-Ketone (my fav) , Boeshield and any number of thick spray lubes. There is a spray called "open gear lube" which is a very thick and gooey oil, thinned with a evaporating carrier. It's cheap and works great too.

By far, Par-al-Ketone is my favorite. It goes on easy, penetrates, dries a bit, to a waxy film, is tough enough, and it's downright inexpensive.

However, LPS-3 is often available at the local hardware store.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: spackard
Al-O is different; I'm not sure why but the O- is trapped with the Al+, so Al forms a protective oxide surface which protects, in normal conditions, the Aluminum from further oxidation.

Aluminum forms a protective layer of aluminum oxide because there is no volume change when it oxidizes, making it an adherent (and protective) oxide. Iron, on the other hand, goes through a volume change when it oxidizes, which is why it scales and spalls from the parent surface.